MustangForums.com - View Single Post - Sub-frame connectors

chevykiller · 06-09-2006, 04:08 PM

Here is 3 choices for subframe connectors:

1. Steeda 3 point frame rail and torque box brace - I really like this one because it can bolt in. I also like the triangle design and the 3-point idea. Steeda hit a home run with this one IMHO. By utlizing the triangle design, it really strengenths the connection and provides optimum turning firmness as well. I think these are the best connectors for street application hands down. Although the bolt on function is great for testing, it is also a con and SHOULD NOT be used as a bolt on permenantly. Your car is going to rattle and squeek like crazy when these are bolted on. I don't care how tight you bolt them in, you are going to hear lots of squeeks and rattles. You are also not going to really feel any difference in tight turns until they are welded in. They are USELESS as bolt-ons IMO. But, as I said, the bolt on feature is great to use as a 'guide' to test them and break them in. What I mean by break them in is you will still feel the difference with them bolted in and get an idea if this is the mod you want for sure before you weld them in. I like that feature about them and had them for 3 weeks before I welded them in.

2. BMR Tubular Subframe connectors - Tubular subframe connectors are made from 1.75" diameter DOM tubing and 3/16" laser cut mounting plates. These are a supposed add on for street and mild drag use. If you are actually worried about splitting your subframe (lol) then these would not be your best bet. They offer no advantage to cornering and are pretty much for show IMHO. Yes, they will protect your car but if you're pushing enough power to worry about it, then I would definitely be looking at the boxed connectors instead IMO. For a $100 difference, it is foolish to get these in place of the boxed connectors IMO. It does reinforce the rear control arm mount so that is good, but so does the boxed connectors so it still is a no brainer to go the boxed for only $100 more.

3. BMR Boxed subframe connectors - Boxed subframe connectors are made from heavy duty 1.5"x 2" main tubing and use both 1"x 2" and 1" gussets as well as 3/16" laser cut weld plates. These are awesome and the box design gives you the best protection for drag racing. For drag use - these are the best you can get IMHO. If you primarily use the car for drags, then these are the way to go. Their box design makes them better than the steeda for drag use.

So I would go with the steeda frame rail and torque box brace if you are doing mostly street driving and the BMR boxed subframe connectors if you re primarily drag racing IMHO.

Now if you really want to get something worth it's weight in gold, then go with a k-member brace and engine torque limiters from CHE performance. Those of you with manual trans will be shocked how much it helps with shifting at WOT.

Mark

06-09-2006, 04:08 PM	#7
chevykiller I ♥ Acer Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Posts: 1,585	RE: Sub-frame connectors Here is 3 choices for subframe connectors: 1. Steeda 3 point frame rail and torque box brace - I really like this one because it can bolt in. I also like the triangle design and the 3-point idea. Steeda hit a home run with this one IMHO. By utlizing the triangle design, it really strengenths the connection and provides optimum turning firmness as well. I think these are the best connectors for street application hands down. Although the bolt on function is great for testing, it is also a con and SHOULD NOT be used as a bolt on permenantly. Your car is going to rattle and squeek like crazy when these are bolted on. I don't care how tight you bolt them in, you are going to hear lots of squeeks and rattles. You are also not going to really feel any difference in tight turns until they are welded in. They are USELESS as bolt-ons IMO. But, as I said, the bolt on feature is great to use as a 'guide' to test them and break them in. What I mean by break them in is you will still feel the difference with them bolted in and get an idea if this is the mod you want for sure before you weld them in. I like that feature about them and had them for 3 weeks before I welded them in. 2. BMR Tubular Subframe connectors - Tubular subframe connectors are made from 1.75" diameter DOM tubing and 3/16" laser cut mounting plates. These are a supposed add on for street and mild drag use. If you are actually worried about splitting your subframe (lol) then these would not be your best bet. They offer no advantage to cornering and are pretty much for show IMHO. Yes, they will protect your car but if you're pushing enough power to worry about it, then I would definitely be looking at the boxed connectors instead IMO. For a $100 difference, it is foolish to get these in place of the boxed connectors IMO. It does reinforce the rear control arm mount so that is good, but so does the boxed connectors so it still is a no brainer to go the boxed for only $100 more. 3. BMR Boxed subframe connectors - Boxed subframe connectors are made from heavy duty 1.5"x 2" main tubing and use both 1"x 2" and 1" gussets as well as 3/16" laser cut weld plates. These are awesome and the box design gives you the best protection for drag racing. For drag use - these are the best you can get IMHO. If you primarily use the car for drags, then these are the way to go. Their box design makes them better than the steeda for drag use. So I would go with the steeda frame rail and torque box brace if you are doing mostly street driving and the BMR boxed subframe connectors if you re primarily drag racing IMHO. Now if you really want to get something worth it's weight in gold, then go with a k-member brace and engine torque limiters from CHE performance. Those of you with manual trans will be shocked how much it helps with shifting at WOT. Mark