Is painting part of your body flat black a DYI?
07-12-2009, 07:04 PM
#11
S197 Section Modder-ator
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Orlando FL
Posts: 13,373
Spray cans are for f#cking amateurs!!
Anything that doesn't have Catalyst/Hardener will not last as well, like lacquer products etc...
The only lacquer base paint I ever used, was on the black out hoods of a few 69/70 Mach1s and Bosses I restored...
Since those classics cars are garaged and not daily driver, the durability isn't such an issue.
But I'll be damned if I was gonna use rattle cans on my customer's rides.
Anyway, like Legion says, no more than $100 should be needed for painting the lower part of that trunk lid...
It's actually cheaper/smarter for the shop to paint the lid off the car, rather than tape the whole car off.
Anything that doesn't have Catalyst/Hardener will not last as well, like lacquer products etc...
The only lacquer base paint I ever used, was on the black out hoods of a few 69/70 Mach1s and Bosses I restored...
Since those classics cars are garaged and not daily driver, the durability isn't such an issue.
But I'll be damned if I was gonna use rattle cans on my customer's rides.
Anyway, like Legion says, no more than $100 should be needed for painting the lower part of that trunk lid...
It's actually cheaper/smarter for the shop to paint the lid off the car, rather than tape the whole car off.
07-12-2009, 10:05 PM
#12
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Corona, CA
Posts: 1,579
Ah I was hoping this thread might summon pascal 
. I guess I'll just talk to my paint shop about doing it when they paint my new bumper. He painted the inside of my side scoops flat black for no extra charge ("because flat black is cheap") so maybe he'll take care of this inexpensively too. Thanks pascal
. I guess I'll just talk to my paint shop about doing it when they paint my new bumper. He painted the inside of my side scoops flat black for no extra charge ("because flat black is cheap") so maybe he'll take care of this inexpensively too. Thanks pascal
09-02-2009, 11:48 AM
#13
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 31
I put on a magnetic one for some time untill I had the cash for the SHR
http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-m...-blackout.html
for $40 you cant go wrong for a easy on easy off item to hold you over.
I would highly recomend the SHR Honeycomb panel it is vary solid and gives the back of the stang a higher end look.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/shr-20...rim-panel.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-m...-blackout.html
for $40 you cant go wrong for a easy on easy off item to hold you over.
I would highly recomend the SHR Honeycomb panel it is vary solid and gives the back of the stang a higher end look.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/shr-20...rim-panel.html
09-02-2009, 07:16 PM
#14
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Corona, CA
Posts: 1,579
It is something to consider, but i'm pretty sure i'm just going to paint it along with my new bumper. Not only will it look more natural than the magnet but I'll also be able to take out the lights and have them paint the entire decklid, maybe even the very top of the bumper
09-02-2009, 07:49 PM
#15
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Deep in the <3 of Tx
Posts: 3,925
Spray cans are for f#cking amateurs!!
Anything that doesn't have Catalyst/Hardener will not last as well, like lacquer products etc...
The only lacquer base paint I ever used, was on the black out hoods of a few 69/70 Mach1s and Bosses I restored...
Since those classics cars are garaged and not daily driver, the durability isn't such an issue.
But I'll be damned if I was gonna use rattle cans on my customer's rides.
Anyway, like Legion says, no more than $100 should be needed for painting the lower part of that trunk lid...
It's actually cheaper/smarter for the shop to paint the lid off the car, rather than tape the whole car off.
Anything that doesn't have Catalyst/Hardener will not last as well, like lacquer products etc...
The only lacquer base paint I ever used, was on the black out hoods of a few 69/70 Mach1s and Bosses I restored...
Since those classics cars are garaged and not daily driver, the durability isn't such an issue.
But I'll be damned if I was gonna use rattle cans on my customer's rides.
Anyway, like Legion says, no more than $100 should be needed for painting the lower part of that trunk lid...
It's actually cheaper/smarter for the shop to paint the lid off the car, rather than tape the whole car off.
I used to like getting the marble out of them when empty.
There's always some enjoyment of taking a big axe to something cutting it in two. 
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