ShMcK

I think you might be right haha. And the fact that it's american muscle makes it 100x's better.

The HID issue is interesting. I don't have HID's but I think it may be because there is no outer lens that covers the whole light. That might mean that the smaller housing wont fit the HID bulb possibly? Idk

amustangrocks

ive seen a couple guys do it on forums. they heated up the glue and removed the frt lens, painted them then glued the frt back on. heres some info someone wrote. this isnt the guy i was looking for, but heres some reading about it.

well i bought one headlight from a junk yard, and messed it up, so no big deal. you need a heat gun, and you need to heat the black part of the head light till it becomes soft, the clear lens has a beveled channel on it, and the clear will bubble before the black part does. the hardest part is removing all of the old sealent from the black part of the channel. I used NAPA part # 4196 Glass setting butle tape. if your worried about fogging, theres a long read that might help you understand.

Hey guys, well after seeing this topic discussed over and over again and a lot of you guys having problems with fogging I think its time for you all to know a little secret that I came across whilst having my headlights cleared and then later retrofitted at the local body shop.
Well a lot of people can successfully open their headlights to clear them but it’s the putting them back part that is more tedious than most of you would think. Over the years people have used silicone to put the headlight back together.
Most of us use the usual adhesive silicone to put the headlights together. The problem with adhesive silicone is that it has a nasty fume, which is not only toxic but also can cause fogging inside the headlight, which sometimes can be confused with fogging due to leakage or improper sealing. Another problem with using adhesive silicone is its property to adhere. Compared to the factory silicone which can easily be removed by applying heat adhesive silicone can not be easily removed. If you use adhesive silicone and you run into leakage or fogging you will need to reseal the headlight and once you try to open it up it wont be as simple as it was with the factory silicone. So the bottom line is to avoid adhesive silicone at all cost, only do it if you think you will not be opening the headlight later.
Now, there is another way of doing this, by using non adhesive sealing silicone. This is the type II silicone. This silicone doesn’t have the nasty fume that the adhesive silicone has but can be used to seal the headlights. The problem with this type of silicone is that it doesn’t adhere. If you use this type of silicone you will need to use clamps, these clamps can be bought from the local home depot etc. But the problem is that you would need to leave the headlights with clamp on them for at least 2 to 3 days. I know that this silicone doesn’t sound very promising so I wouldn’t suggest it. So that takes both of these silicones out of the equation.
Now you must be asking yourself, what the hell am I suppose to use then if I can’t use either of these two silicones. Well worry not because there is a solution and it is the Nissan Butyl rubber part # B655389915. This is the same stuff that auto makers use to seal the headlights. It basically is silicone but it comes in a roll. You can pick it up from your local Nissan dealership; prices vary from dealership to dealership anywhere from $18 to $30. The best place to buy this stuff i.e. cheap is from the link provided bellow. The website offers it for $16 plus shipping. One roll is usually enough for a pair of headlights. Before using this stuff you need to make sure that you take out as much of the old silicone out as possible. Once you have the channel cleared take the Nissan silicone stretch it a little bit so that the bead can fit in properly and fully in the channel. Once you have laid the silicone heat it in the oven for 4 to 5 minutes and put the lens back on. I strongly suggest you use a few clamps to hold it in place, leave it at room temperature for 30 minutes or so and you are good to go.
I have almost 5 sets of headlights cleared by this local body shop and they insist using this stuff and I can back it up since I have never had any fogging or leaking problems with my headlights. The advantages are overwhelming compared to the regular silicone. The only difference between this silicone and the one that comes on the TL headlights is that this one is black and the one on the TL is grey, good luck to you all and I hope this information would help, I apologize for the long write up but I think if it can help a few of you then its well worth the time and effort

Just go slow and take your time. and buy a broken one first to destroy, so you dont destroy your good ones,
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09cs

I like them, but the only thing I don't like is how it looks like there is a gap between the head lights and the bumper. And I don't like the price lol

bakerjd

The only option I think I'd like with these painted lights is the black painted lights. This could be a "blackout" option with better safety if one would like to stay with the stock lights (no HIDs).

Alec

I don't like those headlights but when I read the thread title I was expecting someone to be asking about painting the headlight lenses to tint them. My current headlights are the equivalent brightness of candles in jam jars so tinting them is out of the question

ShMcK

What I like about those lights is there is no lens going across the front so it's inlayed somewhat. On AM you can choose the color options and seeing them in white made me want them even more. I feel like they have a nice clean look, but definitely +1 on not liking the price though..

2005Redfire6

I think its because the bulb cap on those lights seem to really sit far back compared to the stock ones and the HID bulbs would be too long... That problem alone is why I am not buying them, I like my HIDs.