Aluminum driveshaft (did search.....need more opinions) - Page 3

Meangreen1200 · 01-08-2008, 09:32 PM

Spyder DS on mine with KB Blower 10PSI. No problems

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06tyrfryr · 01-08-2008, 10:20 PM

im running 10s w nitrous and no problems with the spydershaft

D_Gusler · 01-09-2008, 12:38 PM

Yea, I forgot to add that too. I was running a 125 shot on the d/s (150 a couple of times) and now I'm running a vortech at 11psi also, no problems.

zkiller · 01-09-2008, 01:41 PM

Powerhouse 4" aluminum. I have tested it to 165 MPH. I have never had a vibration and I launch on ET Streets.
I have to agree that I prefer to use a billett adapter rather than change the pinion flange. I have absolutley zero whine at any speed with my gears and I am not interested in mucking that up by changing the flange.

exx1976 · 01-09-2008, 02:20 PM

Two more - Denny's Driveshaftmakes a 3" steel one with an adapter plate for $599. They are very well known and make quality parts, but they use an adapter plate, so I'm going to steer clear of them (for that reason only).

The one I think I'm going to be getting is from here: http://www.axle-exchange.com/mustang/index.htm

4" aluminum with a new pinion flange is $599. 3" Steel with a new pinion flange is $499. I called and spoke to the owner. VERY nice guy, spent a half hour on the phone with me explaining everything, telling me about the differences between shafts, all sorts of stuff. I'll be gettingthe 4" aluminum one after I do my blower (hopefully next month). FYI - axle-exchange driveshafts are in the Team JDM cars, including their blue Saleen car that just turned a 9.88 @ 139.01... It's also personally endorsed by Jim @ JDM.

PS - stay away from the 3.5" aluminum ones.. The site above, while they still list them, no longer sells them. S p i c er (the company who manufactures the Ranger driveshafts (that everyone uses to make the 3.5" aluminum shafts)), switched to a thin-wall tube, since the Ranger is not a high-HP application. It doesn't stand up so well. Call Neil @ axle-exchange for more info.

EDIT: I can't believe this site ****'d out the s p i c in s p i c e r... Does it have something to do with them not being a sponsor, or is their "slang" dictionary overly agressive? Jeez!!!!!

shaftmasters · 01-10-2008, 05:34 AM

Our 3.5 inch diameter driveshaft uses .125 wall tubing, which is not a thin wall tubing. It is actually stronger than the 4 inch cut down Ranger driveshaft. It also features a true 1350 series u-joint in the rear of the shaft. Be careful when you analyze the weightclaims made by various manufacturers. We have had some of our customers weigh theirOEM driveshafts. They consistently have weighed 39 lbs. For a shaft to offer a 30 lb. weight reduction it would have to weigh 9 lbs. If weight/weight savings is a big decision maker for you I have a suggestion. Before making your purchase ask the manufacturer what their shaft weighs and what the reduction from OEM will be. Then asks that if upon receiving their shaft and weighing it yourself ifthe reading doesn't matchto their reading if you can then return it for full refund.
Robert

Chris07GT · 01-10-2008, 08:42 AM

Kind of off topic here, but other than the weight savings, what benefit is there to changing the driveshaft? Is this really a do-it-yourself type of mod?

Blackhawk · 01-10-2008, 08:56 AM

The lighter the shaft, the easier it is to spin freeing up HP. It's also said to be a week like due to the fact that it's 2-pieces.

I will be getting a 1-piece aftermarket very soon...

exx1976 · 01-10-2008, 12:30 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: shaftmasters

Our 3.5 inch diameter driveshaft uses .125 wall tubing, which is not a thin wall tubing. It is actually stronger than the 4 inch cut down Ranger driveshaft. It also features a true 1350 series u-joint in the rear of the shaft. Be careful when you analyze the weightclaims made by various manufacturers. We have had some of our customers weigh theirOEM driveshafts. They consistently have weighed 39 lbs. For a shaft to offer a 30 lb. weight reduction it would have to weigh 9 lbs. If weight/weight savings is a big decision maker for you I have a suggestion. Before making your purchase ask the manufacturer what their shaft weighs and what the reduction from OEM will be. Then asks that if upon receiving their shaft and weighing it yourself ifthe reading doesn't matchto their reading if you can then return it for full refund.
Robert

Robert, unless I'm mistaken, the 3.5" units were the cut-down ranger shafts, not the 4" units.. No?

Either way, sell me on YOUR driveshaft. I'm not married to any particular vendor, and want to make sure I get the best value as far as price/performance. I'm not looking to ever make more than like ~450RWHP, but I am planning to lower the car maybe 1" or 1.25", and MAYBE do side exhaust. Research thus far has told me that a 4" shaft will work fine for this application. How much is yours, and why do I want it?

shaftmasters · 01-10-2008, 01:10 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: exx1976

Quote:

ORIGINAL: shaftmasters

Our 3.5 inch diameter driveshaft uses .125 wall tubing, which is not a thin wall tubing. It is actually stronger than the 4 inch cut down Ranger driveshaft. It also features a true 1350 series u-joint in the rear of the shaft. Be careful when you analyze the weightclaims made by various manufacturers. We have had some of our customers weigh theirOEM driveshafts. They consistently have weighed 39 lbs. For a shaft to offer a 30 lb. weight reduction it would have to weigh 9 lbs. If weight/weight savings is a big decision maker for you I have a suggestion. Before making your purchase ask the manufacturer what their shaft weighs and what the reduction from OEM will be. Then asks that if upon receiving their shaft and weighing it yourself ifthe reading doesn't matchto their reading if you can then return it for full refund.
Robert

Robert, unless I'm mistaken, the 3.5" units were the cut-down ranger shafts, not the 4" units.. No?

Either way, sell me on YOUR driveshaft. I'm not married to any particular vendor, and want to make sure I get the best value as far as price/performance. I'm not looking to ever make more than like ~450RWHP, but I am planning to lower the car maybe 1" or 1.25", and MAYBE do side exhaust. Research thus far has told me that a 4" shaft will work fine for this application. How much is yours, and why do I want it?

Most if not all of the 4.0 inch aluminum shafts out there, including ours are cut-down Ranger shafts. Our 3.5 inch driveshaft is custom made using 3.5X.125 wall tubing. The rear weld yoke, flange yoke and u-joint are upgraded to 1350series. We also use a improved sound deadener inside these shafts to further reduce harmonic vibration. There is also the added benefit of extra operating clearance with our 3.5 inch shaft. We have yet to receive one complaint from any of our aluminum Mustang driveshafts. We offer a 10 day no questions asked full refund if your not completely satisfied. After the first 10 days our normal warranty applies. The price on these shafts are $595.00 with replacement pinion flange and $645.00 with adapter plate. The shipping is free to anywhere in the continental US.
Robert