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Old 03-25-2009, 09:47 AM   #21
grampa_stang
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Another thing that matters with the auto are the shift points. What RPM is it shifting at?
With my Bama tune..the default shift point was at 5900 rpm. I had him write me a new tune to shift at 6250. That got me 2/10ths or so.
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Old 03-25-2009, 02:05 PM   #22
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Tune would be the first thing, track prep is another. What do the rest of the slips look like? Just because you have an auto doesn't mean the same things are happening, especially when running on street tires as you just can't jam the peddle down to the floor and hook up. Yes, you may have had a better 60' time, but what about after that? You can surely blow the tires up after 60' depending on how you moderate the gas, or even bog down. Maybe after 60' you started spinning and the auto short shifted? Who knows, so much can happen on stock street tires. Just because you 60' well, doesn't mean you 330' well.

There was a lot of other good points already brought up as well, no need for me to repeat them.
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Old 03-25-2009, 02:25 PM   #23
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The other time that day was a 13.168 @ 105 MPH, but not a good 60'. It would have been a better run than the 13.082 (if it wasn't for the worse 60') because the DA was a little over 200 ft lower and there was a 4 mph tail wind.

I guess that could be true about the 330', but the car usually seems to hook right away. I really don't think I'm spinning much farther than the 60' mark.
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13.082 @ 105.05 MPH w/ 1.969 60' on Stock P-Zero 17s

'06 Performance White Auto GT, Kooks LT Headers, Kooks Catted X-Pipe, Pypes Mid Muffler System, C&L Racer CAI, Supertune Performance Dyno Tune, Stock P-Zero 17" Tires
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Old 03-25-2009, 03:22 PM   #24
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How low on gas were you? that can be a huge weight savings, as well as removing the spare/jack.. I didn't see them mentioning it but maybe they felt it didn't need mentioning. and teh shaker 1000 like you said.. 1/10th in weight savings just from gas/driver weight/shaker easy.. sounds like Justin already has like a 70lbs weight savings even if you were both on E in gas..
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Old 03-25-2009, 05:47 PM   #25
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I forgot that this was also with my jack/spare tire removed. I think I had a half tank or less but it's been since November that I did that run.
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13.082 @ 105.05 MPH w/ 1.969 60' on Stock P-Zero 17s

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Old 03-26-2009, 12:54 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deekum1627 View Post
every car is goin to be diff man, also i like that cai more and more i should of got that one instead of my racer
d, you should have bought the street c&l or the bullitt?
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:02 AM   #27
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just blast it w/ a 100 shot and call it a day
you can rack your brains all day long thinking about it, but its easier to just make more power!
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:18 AM   #28
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I think after all the information that has been put out there, we can attribute the difference to 4 main things:

*Better Air
*Better Track Prep
*Tune (more timing, possibly better tuner)
*Less Weight

Maybe the best way to approach this...

Is there anyone else that has ran 12's with a CAI+Tune Auto GT? I think everyone is well aware that it's been done with a Manual by many people so no need to post those runs.
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13.082 @ 105.05 MPH w/ 1.969 60' on Stock P-Zero 17s

'06 Performance White Auto GT, Kooks LT Headers, Kooks Catted X-Pipe, Pypes Mid Muffler System, C&L Racer CAI, Supertune Performance Dyno Tune, Stock P-Zero 17" Tires

Last edited by gburke1; 03-26-2009 at 01:21 AM.
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Old 03-26-2009, 03:24 AM   #29
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If your ambient temp was lower (50 degrees?) and your car was sitting for a while, the oil viscosity in your trans, engine, and rear end could have made up the difference in power right there..
Adding higher octane gas doesnt do anything if you dont have the tune to take advantage..
Track conditions can account for HUGE differences.. and ambient temp can greatly affect the traction of the stock tires (harder rubber and colder, slicker track).
If he iced his intake on a warmer day, he could have compensated for the intake temp difference and had superior traction.

Plus everything that everyone else said..
I have seen people post 12.65 times here on bolt on mods.. and I am convinced that the best bolt on HP you can get might hit mid 340's at the flywheel.

Oh, and you can easily have upwards of 30-40hp difference on stock engines right out of the factory.. maybe he got lucky and his pre-mod hp was 310 or 320.. ? anything is possible.. only way to tell is go head to head with him..
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