How does 500 RWHP Feel?

[mygt500]

Originally Posted by modaddict Yep - it's hard to hook up 20's at any power level. I agree....hope to solve that somewhat with the Nitto invo's and get more sidewall height for more flex in the tire itself. They have a 275/40/20.....not bad but the 295/40/20 is even taller (28.62 inches to be exact)...I know, I know, but mine is a street car and have side exhaust and the car sits low enough as is so I need to help protect that while adding traction/hooking better at the same time.... OP at 465 RWHP and mostly stock driveline and suspension.....you learn real fast what needs to be changed or replaced...like the rear suspension at least and better brakes (SS lines, new fluid, and pads at the very least), in time the stock clutch may slip and a Twin disk works well with the Twin screws S/C's like the Whipple. The new power with the whipple reminds me of driving a big block when indeed your not....great driveability and make sure to get a new catch can and if you beat on the car or track it get a new tensioner as the stock one is weaker then the stock rods in the block. Many recommend that 450 RWHP is all that is "safe" with the stock internals but others had success with higher boost and HP levels. Tune is crucial and fuel supply is important so dont skimp there either esp over 400-450 RWHP....my tuner feels 500 RWHP is more the limit of the stock pump but others will disagree. It is very fun and the instant torque is worth all the other mods that you may want to do or will have to do after FI

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[Legion5]

Originally Posted by RedDogGT

Thanks for the responses. This is what I was hoping to get. My goal of thereabouts 500HP should be attainable with relative performance mods. I'm still on the fence about S/C or T/C, but that is really a matter taste. From there I will be focusing in on weight-reduction and performance suspension. I am planning on road/track racing, but not so extreme that I have to give up weekend drives or it becomes a trailer queen.

Moaddict: Your setup looks impressive...I'd like to know more about what gear you're running.

I had concerns that Mustang platform would prove to be too heavy or sluggish, even with 500HP pounding the pavement. The Mustang makes for an excellent drag racer, but how does it fair on road races? I think the live axle could be a liability.

Well according to Motortrend the Mustang Saleen Extreme with all the optional extras is the best handeling car you can buy in America that comes with a radio, by margin. It's the second best handeling car under all circumstances including beating vehicles like the KTM crossbow. It also beats past vehicles like the Enzo and it beats the top spec Liftinger Corvette which was tested by various magazines.

A good live axle can beat a bad IRS and it's much more expensive to develop a good IRS and more importantly to modify an IRS than to do either of those to solid rear axle.

The Mustang GT has the best solid axle design in history according to many people as it's starting point.

With that said, the Mustang can also handle very poorly due not to it's design but to it's mushy suspension settings, and the cost cutting of removing suspension components to save money that's done on the base models. The base v6 Ford Mustang auto convertible handles worse than the Ford Ranger Truck which it gets it's engine from. It also handles worse than a Toyota Prius all based on magazine figure. Based on automotive engineering calculations, if you ground up whole a 2009 Lotus Elise put it into the interior of a Bentley Continental GTC to make a 7,200 lb car, you'd still be able to win if you had 3 passengers and their luggage in terms of pure handeling numbers. Furthermore the program Top Gear did a test of the Mustang v6 convertible against a mustang horse around a figure eight track designed to test handeling. Horse enthusiasts have confirmed that this test where the Mustang v6 auto convertible lost to the horse was in fact not staged due to that car's incredibly poor handeling abilities and the fact they seemed to chose a racing horse trained to run 1 mile at a time. The v6 vert is also one of the worst 10 handeling cars in America. The mustang GT is at where most BMW's are without the sport package (the mustang actually has the same front suspension, a MacPherson strut as BMWs)

Hope that informs you.

[Riptide]

Well that being the case the stock GT suspension doesn't sound that bad if they're comparing it to a BMW.

I know you need to do something about stiffening up the rear end though. LCA at the least.

[RedDogGT]

I had planned on a Livernois SB to cover the bottom end issues. A Twin-screw with a proper tune could acheive my target hp, and improved driveline/differential will handle the abuse. I was already planning to swap out the transmission with a T56 Viper Spec Transmission. The brakes/suspension could go the route of Saleen products.

I appreciate all those that have replied to my questions. Thank you all.

[cfr865]

I have 455 rwhp for the street and a track tune of 480 rwhp. You will need bigger tires for sure,I ran 255/50/17 and they were almost dangerous, you will need to get use to the new power. I nearly crawled up a few rear bumpers before I got use it. I do need to up grade the brakes because you really need to stand on them to get stopped. It's fun when you get changled because 99% of the time you win.

[onederful100]

i'm in the mid 400 hp range. feels totally different than stock. i can break the tires loose thru the first 3 gears no problem on 20's, so traction is an issue, but an issue that is fixable. the only drawback is you must upgrade many other parts of the car to match the new hp level. so it will cost you some $$$. you cant just drop in a SC and thats the end of it. things will break or wear out much faster than if you were stock or w/ just bolt ons, so have some $$$ in the bank just in case. but it is fun as hell, and i would do it again in a heart beat.

[juk08gt]

Here's how I did it and here's how i would do it over:

1) Saleen supercharger on stock GT - 414rwhp 404 rwtrq
2) Suspension - full up kit from BMR every option known to man - rough ride but definitely on rails and it makes a huge difference.
3) Baer Brakes - if you are going to go fast you are going to need to stop.
4) CAI+pulley+tune - 454rwhp 450rwtrq
5) BC Coil Overs - fully adjustable
6) compcams XFI stage II blower cams phase limiter and springs required + GT500 TB with spacer/ converter for GT+ retune

I have it at the shop right now for #5 and am waiting to see what the numbers will be but I am going to have them tune it to 500 / 500 to try to be some what reliable.

Now with that being said here is what i would do to do it right:

1) pull the engine and do forged internals or just purchase another engine to do a build on. If you are going to buy a stang, order it with the forged internals from Ford. you will save a ton of money not having to pay for someone ripping apart the car every 5 months.

2) Do all of the naturally aspirated mods first and have fun doing them. Just plan a little ahead. for example, you can do CAI and exhaust, except for LTs if you are working out of your home garage. If you are really are handy you can port and polish your heads or just swap them. Cams can be done at this time or done by Ford also. They too have some decent HOT ROD cams. Oh and bye the way get the valve covers powder coated cause the stock ones look like crap. You should be hitting around 400-450hp just with these mods and a proper tune.

3) suspension, suspension, suspension - right now I have the suspension of a race car, but with the coil overs I can adjust it to how I want the car to handle. If I want her really tight and stiff for Auto X or a little softer in the rear for the launch at the strip.....I got it, including the softer highway drive. But this makes a huge difference on how much HP you can get to the ground and how well it will handle. I tell you what I had the Saleen put in and just about lost most of my filings in my teeth because of wheel hop, not to mention that the stock tires are hard and spin freely under power conditions. After the suspension the car is like a rocket on rails. This will make a huge difference that is worth every penny. I don't have 725hp but the guys that do also use this suspension for a reason. When the power goes to the ground you go straight, which is where you want to. Without it you start a wicked fishtale and if your not careful you'll spin out.

4) Brakes because you will have to stop eventually.

5) After you are done with that level of HP its time to go with forced induction. Whipple or Kenny Bell or whatever you want to throw on. I like the look of the Mammoth. But now you can do that and be 500-550 right off the bat and have lots of room to play. If you do all of your forged internals there is no reason why you can't get around 700-800hp. The block has to get changed out after that.

Now with all that being said you actually might want to stop and not do a blower or turbo but if you are like me, you have just entered the realm of having a really expensive hobby. Where how hard the body gets thrown back into the seat gives you a rush like no other and you get used to it. There in lies the problem....you get used to it so it will never be enough. Hopefully i have shed some light and get a few guys on the right path so they won't end up with a $10K-$15K bill for another engine because yours won't handle the HP you feel you need.

[juk08gt]

sorry for the long winded dissertation.

[2cokeman]

The more you have the more you want!!

[AmericanSpeed]

It's only dangerous when you want it to be. Other than that, the experience is very pleasureable