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There's also a post a while back on an adjustment to the THROTTLE itself. When I bought mine the lag was so bad I could barely drive the car but after I took the pedal out and adjusted the brushes so they actually started on the metal portion of the accuator a lot of that went away.....and yes a Tuner will help too!
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You could buy a tuner alone and order tunes (I believe bamachips makes tunes for diablo, 3 for $185). that would be $385. or buy a new one like an SCT x3, preloaded with 3 tunes from a tuner for around $375, or new diablo from bama for 399 (which might be a better model than the one for sale)
Or order a new intake+tuner+tunes package for $550-600 and pick up an extra 10-20rwhp while you are at it.
And like everyone else said.. this will be the biggest change for throttle response out of anything else you could do.
If i bought a tuner now and ordered a tune from bama or brenspeed, then later get CAI, UDPs, LTs and so on, will i have to buy a new tune for reach time i add something or would they change it for me since ive already bought a tune? Thats my main concern. I plan on a CAI and alot of other mods but its going to be a slow process.
The solution: Preload the throttle with spacers. I JB Welded 2 washers on the throttle where it comes up and rests against the stop. It now has about 3/4 of the travel as it did. The lag is gone. I breathe on my pedal and the RPMS jump instantly! Really beats the hell out of taking it apart and bending the brushes! Just get a light and look at where the throttle rests at the module. With the car warm and at regular idle, push down on the throttle and see how big of a gap is created before the rpms move. Simply fill in the gap with spacers. The puter will read it as the starting point.
The solution: Preload the throttle with spacers. I JB Welded 2 washers on the throttle where it comes up and rests against the stop. It now has about 3/4 of the travel as it did. The lag is gone. I breathe on my pedal and the RPMS jump instantly! Really beats the hell out of taking it apart and bending the brushes! Just get a light and look at where the throttle rests at the module. With the car warm and at regular idle, push down on the throttle and see how big of a gap is created before the rpms move. Simply fill in the gap with spacers. The puter will read it as the starting point.
Gonna have to try this sometime.
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The solution: Preload the throttle with spacers. I JB Welded 2 washers on the throttle where it comes up and rests against the stop. It now has about 3/4 of the travel as it did. The lag is gone. I breathe on my pedal and the RPMS jump instantly! Really beats the hell out of taking it apart and bending the brushes! Just get a light and look at where the throttle rests at the module. With the car warm and at regular idle, push down on the throttle and see how big of a gap is created before the rpms move. Simply fill in the gap with spacers. The puter will read it as the starting point.
Ill look into it, but the problem still occurs at WOT when its from a stand still.
The throttle reset helped a good bit!
Way more responsive and launches a bit harder from a dig. Not sure how long it will last though.
The throttle reset itself should remain, as that is what tells the PCM where the zero throttle and WOT pedal positions are. Any 'learning' on the part of the PCM may still change the response in between based on the way the car is driven, but that shouldn't affect the endpoints. IOW, throttle response could conceivably slow down over time, but it should not pick up a "dead range" of pedal motion where nothing at all happens.
The solution: Preload the throttle with spacers. I JB Welded 2 washers on the throttle where it comes up and rests against the stop. It now has about 3/4 of the travel as it did. The lag is gone. I breathe on my pedal and the RPMS jump instantly! Really beats the hell out of taking it apart and bending the brushes! Just get a light and look at where the throttle rests at the module. With the car warm and at regular idle, push down on the throttle and see how big of a gap is created before the rpms move. Simply fill in the gap with spacers. The puter will read it as the starting point.
LOL at the pics, it will take u only a sec to see what I am talking about. Getting a picure under there..pain in the ass... trust me guys you will be amazed how different it feels. Gets rid of "the dead range" as Norm so well decribes it.
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