You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
What supercharger would you recommend for self install on a dd 2007 GT Vert that will not over stress the stock internals? Please note the mods on the car allready. I am leaning towards a Saleen Stage 3.
Also what suspension alterations would you recommend to handle affectively the extra power. (something that is fairly comfortable but improves handling). I am not looking for severe lowering here.
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
__________________
2007 GT/CS Convertible
Techco 3L Twin Screw SC @10 PSI
Kooks LTs H-pype hiflow cats, Borla Stingers
4.10 FRRP Gears, Dynotech 3.5 Aluminium Drive shaft
Steeda Superlights, Tokico D Specs, BMR-UCA/LCA-Relo Braket- Adj.Panhard bar
CHE K Brace/torque limiters, Prothane MMs, Ford Racing STB
MGW shifter, Dual GT500 Fuel pump,
Nitto 555 245/45/18, 285/40/18 on 9&10" Omega GS Black Chrome
Saleen or Whipple FTW!....run low boost at first say 8 psi and up to more later with dyno tune if you get the need for more power!
very linear TQ curve...boost is instant at 1800+ RPM's and you will not be in boost unless you want to be.....everyone thinks boost is on all the time and this is not the case....either is great for a DD IMO....
Centri's are belt driven turbos essentially and kick in as the RPM's increase (so TQ is not linear) and for street driving I like the feel of the instant TQ of the TS S/C's and no you wont be spinning the tires unless you want too.
Oh and turn off the TCS each and every time you enter the car or defeat it with the tuner (not rcommended) or you can cause a lean condition when WOT and spinning the tires or not.
__________________
2006 Mustang GT with Cervinis Kit
Whipple Crew member
H.O. S/C 465 RWHP and 440RWTQ
I have heard very good things about Edelbrocks E-Force Supercharger. Very low boost for big power. One of the owners at JDM uses it on his mustang.
If you are on a budget, I would look into the Vortech V3 Brenspeed kit. proven technology at a great price.
__________________
'06 Mustang GT
Black / Black & Tan Leather
Black DD AM 20x8.5 & 20x10 Bullitts with 255/40/20 & 295/35/20
Go: Hurst Shifter, Mac AB, TI - 93 Brenspeed Tune, SPEC Stage 2 Clutch w/Alum FW
Show: Center Mount Fogs, Side Vents, Hood Pins, Roush Rear Springs, CDC Chin Spoiler,
HIDS
I do like my whipple h/o, btw just went to the smaller pulley setup they introduced in 09. Can really feel the difference. Adds 50 hp I think. My car is lowered with the Ford kit. Works well but may be too low for you as I can grate over speed bumps. Wheels and tires are gt500 takeoffs. Best wheel tire value out there by far. Good luck.
__________________
'07 Shelby Convertible Replica, triple black premium, Silver Le Mans stripes, Whipple Crew Member (ungraded to 550 RWHP), Ford Racing shifter/suspension/x-pipe, Corsa, 5-speed, limited slip 3.55, shaker 1000, Ford Nav, CDC lite bar, CDC side scoops.
Just wanted to jump in to subscribe.....and also see if anyone had any opinions on the Whipple vs Roushcharger. I definitely want to go with the twinscrew so that I can get the low-end power. Just not sure if there were any benefits of one over the other.
__________________
2008 Mustang GT - Borla Stingers, FRPP STB, 14" antenna, CDC Classic chin, Steeda Street Wing, SHR Fuel Door, SHR lower grille inserts and Webelectric Sequentials.
1999 V6 Mustang - 3.73 FRPP gears, Bullitt Wheels, Front Bullitt Calipers w/ 13" FRPP rotors and SS hoses, GT leather steering wheel and shift knob, 8" antenna, Mach 1 chin spoiler, Ford smoked headlights.
isn't the whipple about a grand more than most other kits?? I read the saleen install intructions and it didn't look that bad, I have heard kenne bell is quite a bit harder
Just wanted to jump in to subscribe.....and also see if anyone had any opinions on the Whipple vs Roushcharger. I definitely want to go with the twinscrew so that I can get the low-end power. Just not sure if there were any benefits of one over the other.
The whipple is pretty much the same but has a bigger intercooler and can run more boost if you can get a new monoblade TB and intake from Adam at ST Motorsports to get the most out of the boost from the 2.3L Whipple. The Gen 2 Whipple is more efficient then previous yrs and running 10 psi is like 11 or maybe 12 psi on the Gen 1. Seen big numbers from relatively low boost (8-10 psi) on the Gen 2 Whipple's.
IMO the Whipple is superior to the Roush in many ways and though it is an improvement from the last S/C Roush had it has its limits.
Now taken the above into consideration if you never see forging in the future then all that info really means nothing as the powered rods are the weak link and can and will break or bend (if your lucky) at some point in the future on higher boost applications (11+ or less-just depends on the tune and many other factors).
I am running the Gen1 whipple and love it and have no regrets except that I want more HP and that doesn't have anything to do with the S/C itself just my want for more HP.....
__________________
2006 Mustang GT with Cervinis Kit
Whipple Crew member
H.O. S/C 465 RWHP and 440RWTQ
I was pumped this week to find out a reputable tuner (DynoJoe) within driving distance of me is up on Edelbrocks. Call me crazy, but I don't like supercharger sound. I want the car not to sound like a sewing machine. The Edelbrock (and Roush TVS I presume) is pretty much silent.
If the stock market keeps creeping back, I can see me getting an Edelbrock this year. Woo-hoo!!!
The TVS SC's (edelbrock & roush) are kinda like a hybrid twin screw & centri. Like a twin screw, they provide near instant boost. Like a centri, the boost climbs with rpm. Best of both worlds, IMO. And, allegedly, run at lower temps.
__________________
Show: Cervini Type IV hood & chin spoiler, GT500 rear spoiler, Silverhorse Racing Louvers
Go: JDM-tuned E-Force, full Bassani exhaust
Now taken the above into consideration if you never see forging in the future then all that info really means nothing as the powered rods are the weak link and can and will break or bend (if your lucky) at some point in the future on higher boost applications (11+ or less-just depends on the tune and many other factors).
Thanks for the tips. As of today, my thought is to not have to do any forging, simply because I'd like to just shoot for around 450hp roughly, give or take and want to try to keep the costs down as much as I can. Basically my main goal would be to improve the low end response/power (as well as high end, but low end is what's missing the most on stock IMO) and get it faster than most stock cars on the road (just for my own satisfaction ).
__________________
2008 Mustang GT - Borla Stingers, FRPP STB, 14" antenna, CDC Classic chin, Steeda Street Wing, SHR Fuel Door, SHR lower grille inserts and Webelectric Sequentials.
1999 V6 Mustang - 3.73 FRPP gears, Bullitt Wheels, Front Bullitt Calipers w/ 13" FRPP rotors and SS hoses, GT leather steering wheel and shift knob, 8" antenna, Mach 1 chin spoiler, Ford smoked headlights.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company