Hard Water ???
10-11-2006, 03:38 AM
#61
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Raised in Chicago; living near St. Louis in Troy, IL
Posts: 396
RE: Hard Water ???
ORIGINAL: rex7010
Anyone try one of these.. ??? http://calcarduster.com/autoOriginal...aterblade2.asp
I am kind of scared to try that thing... lol
Rex
Anyone try one of these.. ??? http://calcarduster.com/autoOriginal...aterblade2.asp
I am kind of scared to try that thing... lol
Rex
I see them everywhere and hear they work well, but I am also scared to death to try the thing on my paint. I'll stick with my microfibers, thank you very much.
10-11-2006, 03:48 AM
#62
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 706
RE: Hard Water ???
ORIGINAL: Silencer06
I see them everywhere and hear they work well, but I am also scared to death to try the thing on my paint. I'll stick with my microfibers, thank you very much.
ORIGINAL: rex7010
Anyone try one of these.. ??? http://calcarduster.com/autoOriginal...aterblade2.asp
I am kind of scared to try that thing... lol
Rex
Anyone try one of these.. ??? http://calcarduster.com/autoOriginal...aterblade2.asp
I am kind of scared to try that thing... lol
Rex
I see them everywhere and hear they work well, but I am also scared to death to try the thing on my paint. I'll stick with my microfibers, thank you very much.
LOL that is why I asked ..
Rex
10-11-2006, 03:58 AM
#63
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Los Angeles Ca
Posts: 2,127
RE: Hard Water ???
ORIGINAL: rex7010
LOL that is why I asked ..
Rex
ORIGINAL: Silencer06
I see them everywhere and hear they work well, but I am also scared to death to try the thing on my paint. I'll stick with my microfibers, thank you very much.
ORIGINAL: rex7010
Anyone try one of these.. ??? http://calcarduster.com/autoOriginal...aterblade2.asp
I am kind of scared to try that thing... lol
Rex
Anyone try one of these.. ??? http://calcarduster.com/autoOriginal...aterblade2.asp
I am kind of scared to try that thing... lol
Rex
I see them everywhere and hear they work well, but I am also scared to death to try the thing on my paint. I'll stick with my microfibers, thank you very much.
LOL that is why I asked ..
Rex
10-11-2006, 03:19 PM
#64
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location:
Posts: 205
RE: Hard Water ???
The waterblades work very well if you get a high quality one. The rubber is a super soft, flexible silicon material. I use one on all the flat surfaces; the hood. roof, trunk and windows. The point is to get the majority of the water off. If you use the waterblade on just your mustang and no other car and make sure to keep it clean then I see no problems. Just do not get careless and hit the paint with the handle!!! Then you wipe up the rest with the microfiber towels. The benefit to this is you end up using far less towels than if you didn't use the waterblade.
10-11-2006, 07:33 PM
#65
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 2,179
RE: Hard Water ???
ORIGINAL: Silencer06
Larmo, all the details of 06GT4RAD's email are good advice that I also suggest you follow. I also have a black GT and have ZERO water spot problems because I use this same basic method. AND it does NOT cost you much at all. I don't know if the Mr. Clean kit works or not, but I think you'll be fine if you follow these BASIC steps (unless you wash in the sun, in which case, nothing you do will matter much).
For the basic wash:
1) Wash with a good quality soap (I use either Meguiar's Gold Class or NXT -- the NXT claims to prevent water spots, and it DOES), a sheepskin wash mitt, and two buckets (soaped and clean). No hard rubbing during the wash process!!!!! Let the water and soap do the work!
2) Rinse WITHOUT a nozzle -- let it flow straight from the hose and "sheet" off the body.
3) Dry with a waffle weave microfiber in one hand (to sop up most of the water) and another good quality soft DRY microfiber in the other (to get rid of the leftover excess water). Again, NO HARD RUBBING! Let the towels do the work.
4) If you have one, use a shop-vac or leaf blower AFTER drying to blow out all the excess water in the window/body cracks, light covers, door jambs, bumbers, grill, etc......then dry some more with the soft DRY microfiber.
That's it. You're done with the basics!
Then for the extensive wash and detail jobs, follow same steps above but add:
5) Claybar once every 4-6 months or so (depends on how often your car is exposed to the crap we breathe in every day)
6) Polish (if necessary)
7) Wax with a good quality wax (I used Meguiar's NXT and loved it -- mirror-like, wet looking shine that blows me away).
That's it. You really only need a good washmitt, some good soap and some good microfibers to maintain your car nicely, and after that it's just a matter of claying/polishing/waxing periodically. Do it right and you'll achieve your desired results.
OH, I forgot to add.....in between washes, you might want to use a good detailing spray (with a microfiber, of course) every other day or so to maintain that clean look (keeps off the dust, sap, spit, bird crap, etc) until you can wash again.
Black truly is beautiful, but it can get ugly REAL quick if you don't take care in maintaining it well.
Good luck....and send pics when you get the hang of it!
Nick
Larmo, all the details of 06GT4RAD's email are good advice that I also suggest you follow. I also have a black GT and have ZERO water spot problems because I use this same basic method. AND it does NOT cost you much at all. I don't know if the Mr. Clean kit works or not, but I think you'll be fine if you follow these BASIC steps (unless you wash in the sun, in which case, nothing you do will matter much).
For the basic wash:
1) Wash with a good quality soap (I use either Meguiar's Gold Class or NXT -- the NXT claims to prevent water spots, and it DOES), a sheepskin wash mitt, and two buckets (soaped and clean). No hard rubbing during the wash process!!!!! Let the water and soap do the work!
2) Rinse WITHOUT a nozzle -- let it flow straight from the hose and "sheet" off the body.
3) Dry with a waffle weave microfiber in one hand (to sop up most of the water) and another good quality soft DRY microfiber in the other (to get rid of the leftover excess water). Again, NO HARD RUBBING! Let the towels do the work.
4) If you have one, use a shop-vac or leaf blower AFTER drying to blow out all the excess water in the window/body cracks, light covers, door jambs, bumbers, grill, etc......then dry some more with the soft DRY microfiber.
That's it. You're done with the basics!
Then for the extensive wash and detail jobs, follow same steps above but add:
5) Claybar once every 4-6 months or so (depends on how often your car is exposed to the crap we breathe in every day)
6) Polish (if necessary)
7) Wax with a good quality wax (I used Meguiar's NXT and loved it -- mirror-like, wet looking shine that blows me away).
That's it. You really only need a good washmitt, some good soap and some good microfibers to maintain your car nicely, and after that it's just a matter of claying/polishing/waxing periodically. Do it right and you'll achieve your desired results.
OH, I forgot to add.....in between washes, you might want to use a good detailing spray (with a microfiber, of course) every other day or so to maintain that clean look (keeps off the dust, sap, spit, bird crap, etc) until you can wash again.
Black truly is beautiful, but it can get ugly REAL quick if you don't take care in maintaining it well.
Good luck....and send pics when you get the hang of it!
Nick
Also since i am a man and can admit a mistake, i will apoligize to those that I offended for my comment regarding being lazy for using the Mr. Clean system. Sorry. But i do no think it is a good system and is meant for people that do not want to take the time to care for a car and keep it looking it's best.
The California Car Duster is also and essential tool in keeping a car looking good. I own 4 or 5 of them. The Ca. Water blade also is a good toll but it can casue problmes if not used correctly. I actually mist my vehicles after washing them with a light miost of Poorboys S&W it helps the water blade glide across the surface to remove all the heavy water. I then use another light mist when using the WW drying towles. I suggest the new Jelly Ca. Water blade no hard surfaces on it.
Here is a link to the Jelly Water Blade and it is completely safe when used correctly. If you drop it rinse it with water and run your and across the balde area to check for softness. Do not be afraid of it as it is a great tool.
http://www.autogeek.net/jelly-blade.html
Richard
10-11-2006, 10:56 PM
#66
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location:
Posts: 13
RE: Hard Water ???
I have not used one of the blades yet, but my friend who is just as picky as I am has and he has never had a problem. As for the actual Cali Duster... I use to do shows with my 66 and got one as a entry prize and have owned several since. I have never had a problem with streaking the paint with those! I love em'!
10-11-2006, 11:09 PM
#67
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 205
RE: Hard Water ???
I bought a jelly blade and couldn't get it to work for crap. On my brothers jeep, where everything is flat, it seems to work better. Water sheets right off a waxed car so I don't worry about it.
Actually, I go to the pay and spray and drop 3 bucks in quarters every week, and only hand wash maybe once a month or so. Trying to maintain a show car look is ridiculous for a daily driver tha lives outside.
Actually, I go to the pay and spray and drop 3 bucks in quarters every week, and only hand wash maybe once a month or so. Trying to maintain a show car look is ridiculous for a daily driver tha lives outside.
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