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Old 11-19-2006, 02:01 PM   #1
CrazyAl
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Default Quieting gear whine--solution found.

OK, this is not a 100% fix, but it does help reduce gear whine noise. I tested this yesterday on two cars.

My car exhibits a very minor whine, sometimes, during deceleration only. You can't hear it unless the windows are up, radio off, and foot is off the gas (coasting)...and even then you can only hear it sometimes.

My buddy's car has a more serious whine. You can hear it on acceleration at lower speeds and during deceleration all the time.

The fix is Red Line Heavy Shockproof gear oil. I was recommended this by a mechanic I know from the 4x4 scene. Yesterday both of us replaced our diff lube with this. I had previously been using Royal Purple Max-Gear since my diff swap and he was using the Ford OEM type oil. The Redline oil is strange to look at, actually. It is bright red and opaque...it looks like blood!

In both cases we went for a drive to warm up the oil, let the cars sit with drain pans for about an hour (to make sure they were fully drained) and then refilled with the Red Line oil to the level of the OEM fill plug. I have an LPW girdle cover, so draining my oil was a simply matter of pulling the drain plug. My buddy's car still has the OEM cover, so we had to unbolt it for draining.

After the swap we went for test drives. At first I thought it had completely eliminated what little whine I had. However, on one stretch of my drive where there is some brand new highway pavement--which is very smooth and makes for very little background road noise--we were able to hear a little whine now and then. However during 95% of driving we heard nothing, and that was with the windows up, radio off. So, in a case of minor whine, the problem is mostly gone.

My buddy's car, which previously had a pretty bad case of whine, did not have the whine disappear, but was made a lot quieter. His whine on acceleration was essentially gone. We debated as to wether or not we could hear it at certain times. You could still hear it on deceleration, but it was noticeably quieter. Previously he used to have his aftermarket radio set at "6" notches of volume to drown out the whine. After the swap the radio would drown it out on a setting of about 3-3.5. With the radio off you could still hear it, but it was much less obvious.


So, there you have it. If you are annoyed with gear whine, give Red Line Heavy Shockproof a try. It is not particularly expensive; it's about $8/quart. We bought ours from Summit Racing. It already has a limited-slip additive, so if you are still using your factory T-lok diff then you don't need to buy any extra additive.
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Old 11-19-2006, 07:34 PM   #2
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Default RE: Quieting gear whine--solution found.

Thank you so much for that info. I will DEFINITELY try it. After 4 repair attempts and a wholenew rear end, I STILL have whine on decel from 50-40 mph. I'll call it mild - like a flutter. I hope to god this works, 'cause I'm tired of visiting the dealer.

I've never messed with diff before - is it fairly easy to do?
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Old 11-19-2006, 07:58 PM   #3
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Default RE: Quieting gear whine--solution found.


Quote:
ORIGINAL: richmod

Thank you so much for that info. I will DEFINITELY try it. After 4 repair attempts and a wholenew rear end, I STILL have whine on decel from 50-40 mph. I'll call it mild - like a flutter. I hope to god this works, 'cause I'm tired of visiting the dealer.

I've never messed with diff before - is it fairly easy to do?
It is a little more complex than a normal oil change, but it's not that bad. The annoying thing is that the factory diff cover doesn't have a drain plug. That means you have to remove the cover in order to do the work.

Supplies needed:

Rag
Razor blade
putty knife
RTV silicone sealant
Brake cleaner spray
3/8 drive ratchet & a short (3") extention
Sockets & wrenches (See below)

Here is the basic procedure:

1) Block the front wheels for safety. Then jack up the rear of the car and support with jack stands under the frame.

2) Support the rear axle with the jack. Then, unbolt one end of the panhard bar. (I suggest the lower end where it meets the axle at the Drivers's side). Swing the panhard bar up and out of the way and secure it there with a piece of cord or some zip ties or something like that.

3) Lower the jack so that the axle comes down and you can access the cover. Make sure the panhard bar is out of the way.

4) Position a drain pan under the differential housing. There's only about 2.2 quarts of fluid in there, so it doesn't have to be a huge pan. Remove all the cover bolts, except leave the top one loose.

5) Seperate the cover from the housing. You might have to gently pry it with a putty knife. If you have to pry, do it carefully so you don't gouge the cover. Once it pops free, the loose upper bolt will stop it from falling down and making a mess. Once it's free the oil will drain out into your pan.

6) Remove the upper bolt and the cover.

8) Scrape off any residual RTV from the cover and from the diff housing using a razor blade.

9) Clean the sealing surfaces of the cover and the housing with a rag and brake cleaner.

10) Apply a bead of RTV silicone on the cover. Make sure to make a continuous bead and make little circles around the bolt holes. You don't need a huge amount of sealant. A 1/4" bead is plenty. If you need to, smooth the RTV out with your finger so there are no "thin spots". Then put the cover back on the housing and secure it with the bolts. Tighten the bolts gently and in a random pattern so you don't warp the cover. Once they are snug, give them all a final tightening. Don't crank down on them, all they are doing is holding the cover in place.

11) Remove the fill plug, which is located on the forward side of the differential housing. You may have to feel around for it. It's on the driver's side and it points directly forwards. It has a 3/8 square recess in it. Using your 3/8" ratchet and the 3" extension, remove the fill plug.

12) Fill the diff with the new oil until a tiny bit starts to come out of the fill plug. A handy way do to this is a simple pump dispenser you can get at an auto parts store. They have a long hose you can stick into the fill hole and then you simply pump in the oil. Wipe off the excess oil with your rag, and then re-install the fill plug. I put a small amount of pipe sealant on the plug's threads to prevent leaks.

13) Raise the rear axle with the jack and re-install the end of the panhard bar you removed. Then, raise up the car, remove the stands, and you're done.
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Old 11-19-2006, 08:34 PM   #4
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Default RE: Quieting gear whine--solution found.

I will def try redline after I get my trutrac in! What weight gear oil do you use. I forgot but right now I think I'm running RP 75W130 or something like that. I was told this is what I should run for synthetic gear lube.
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Old 11-19-2006, 08:41 PM   #5
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Default RE: Quieting gear whine--solution found.

It's Red Line Heavy Shockproof. That's it. There is no weight on the label. They state in company literature that it has the flow charactaristics of a 75 W but the film strength of a 250.
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Old 11-19-2006, 08:49 PM   #6
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Default RE: Quieting gear whine--solution found.

So I should buy 3 quarts?
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Old 11-19-2006, 09:45 PM   #7
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Default RE: Quieting gear whine--solution found.

if the flow is = to 75 weight its to thin the right oil is 75W-140 which is 140 weight but can flow in the sub-zero 75Winter test and has the viscosity of 140 weight
meaning the flow of 140 and the ability to flow at the temp that 75W states
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Old 11-19-2006, 09:52 PM   #8
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Default RE: Quieting gear whine--solution found.

it looks like LightWeight ShockProof™ is thwe right viscocity
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Old 11-19-2006, 09:56 PM   #9
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Default RE: Quieting gear whine--solution found.

Yeah, how many quarts? 2 or 3
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Old 11-19-2006, 10:10 PM   #10
CrazyAl
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Default RE: Quieting gear whine--solution found.

You need to buy 3 quarts. The fill capacity, as listed in your owner's manual, is 2.2 quarts.

All three of the "shockproof" oils have similar flow characteristics, according to Redline's Tech department. The HEAVY is the one to choose because it can combat noise much more effectively than the others.

The selection of gear lube is not an exact science. In this case we are not looking for the "textbook ideal" oil. We're looking for whichever one will combat noise the best in a problem situation.

The numbers in a multigrade oil have the following meanings: Take AWB for exmaple.

The "A" number (before the W), is the number describing how freely the oil can be pumped. This test is NOT performed at low temperatures, but the meaning of the number is the closest equvalent grade of SAE standard oil that is still pumpable at 0 degrees C.

The "B" number is the actual viscoscity of the oil at 100 degrees C.

The "quick and dirty approximation" of this is that the first number is the equivalent viscoscity of the oil for purposes of pumpability and energy efficiency but the second number is the ACTUAL viscoscity.


So, a 75W140 oil (what Ford calls for in the rear end) means:

1) The oil should have the same pumpability as a 75W standard oil does at 0 degrees C.
2) The oil should have the protection of a 140W oil.

An old mechanic's saying is "Flows like a 75 but protects like a 140"


The Red Line Heavy Shockproof oil (according to Red Line's web site--link below) has the fluid friction properties of a 75W90 and the film thickness of a 75W250. That means it simultaneously offers LESS FRICTIONAL DRAG than the OEM oil (which theoretically means more horsepower), AND it has a greater film strength, which means reduced metal-to-metal contact (this is where the whine reduction comes from).

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_g...6&categoryID=6

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C&L CAI; 93 oct tune
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Old 11-19-2006, 10:10 PM
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