Caution

Intake and tune is a good start... I started on mine the weekend that I bought it. I haven't had any problems with my hurst at all either. It's addicting so take your time before you go broke buying parts.

StowesStang

Bought my 07 in September, on a Saturday and started modding Sunday!!! lol..........my mods so far.......

20" wheels/tires
FRPP Axle-back Borla Stingers (had an x-pipe on my 04 and that baby was loud - going different this time)
FRPP 1.5 lowering springs 4-way around

Ordering this month.......
C&L CAI/SCT (from Brenspeed)
Also looking at LTs

Happy modding my friend! Its so addicting!!!!![sm=gears.gif]

itzztrick

I think its good to start modding at 1000 miles.

CrazyAl

OK, now I understand what you are trying to say.

You're right though, if you want HP gains out of your exhaust there is one clear choice: LONGTUBES.

Archion

3 months old, 7000 miles and counting, gonna wait till next year to start modding, new house, xmas, all that good stuff.

WhiteStallion06

youll be happy but you wont b dne its addicting .... i started at 1k.... start w the cai and tune ....you did some good research thats the best cai and tune

Centurion96

Hi Probinator - haven't yet as delivery is still 3 weeks away.

No, unless you are an expert on aligning prop shaft to pinion shaft angles. Lowering opens up a whole bag of worms that the novice will find overwhelming. If your drive line is not aligned, you will eat pinion bearings at a rate of every 8 to 12 months. You will also need to protect anything hanging down with sacrificals or skid plates. Look at the arc of your tire in relation to the wheel well opening. Notice that these arcs are concentric around the spindle in the front and the axle in the rear. Lowering a suspension ruins this look and detracts from the overal appearance of the car. You can actually lower your car up to 1.3 inches without spending 1 dime on suspension parts by simply reducing the sidewall depth of your tires. You didn't mention what size wheels you have but here are the numbers for both sizes you can get with the GT. If you have 235/55/R17s and go to 235/40R17s then you drop the car 1.35". Go from the optional 235/50R18s to 235/35R18s and you lower the car 1.3". Don't however increase to a wider tread width as you will defeat the shorter sidewall effect as well as set yourself up to greater hydroplaning during wet roadway conditions.

I can't do this and stay in F-Stock for SCCA SOLO II competition. Those that have done this mod and then switched to the TRI-AX have not regretted dropping the Hurst.


Read this thread as it gives you some realistic hp increases and what it will cost.

https://mustangforums.com/m_2174417/tm.htm

My advice is to go to a local autocross event and try it with your stock Mustang. This will afford you a very inexpensive learning experience where you will understand the dynamics of your Musting. You'll experience the steering and handling capabilites of you car and when and where to apply lots of go pedal. More importantly you'll learn when not to apply said go pedal. Years ago I raced a '75 Pontiac Formula 350 Firebird and was not only competitive with 455HOs, 455SDs, and all of the other big block muscle cars of that era but I would consistantly beat them. On a road course my front to rear weight ratio was an advantage to their greater horsepower. It was the Z28s, the 302 Mustangs and the 340 Cudas that gave me the most competition.

Good luck in whatever you decide.

BB

Cobrakev

1. Car had 2.2 miles on it before it got mods. Off the truck into the shop.

2. Went with the Pro-kit. No other parts needed. Now if you want a softer ride, the you need to upgrade the shocks.

Kevin