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Pypes Off-Road H-Pipe Install (w/pics)
04-17-2007, 01:52 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location:
Posts: 415
Pypes Off-Road H-Pipe Install (w/pics)
Current axle-back exhaust: FRPP/Borla Stingers
Pypes tubing diameter: 2.50"
Pypes H slip fitting diameters:
Female OD (drivers side): 2.150"
Male OD (passengers side): 1.990"
When the box was delivered, it looked like it was in bad shape. I was worried that the pipes were dented or something, but everything was okay.
Here's the H-Pipe layed out straight from the box.
Passengers side forward O2 sensor and manifold flange.
Passengers side rear O2 sensor.
Drivers side rear O2 sensor.
The 2 rear O2 sensors (colored BLUE).
Note: On Automatics, the rear O2 sensor plugs are conviently plugged right next to each other.
Next came time to unplug the (passenger side) forward O2 sensor (colored GREEN). This proved to be a royal pain in the butt. I tried to reach the connection plug from the bottom (impossible) and from the top (barely touching my fingers on the plug). Not to waste anymore time, I yanked the battery and tray out. Problem solved.
Now it was time to break loose the exhaust manifold bolts. You need a swivel, deep socket, and a long extension to accomplish this, especially for the upper nuts. After fighting the nuts for several minutes (wouldn't budge for the life of me), I sprayed some penetrating oil on the nuts and like magic, they came off with minimal effort! Who knew...
Now it was time to loosen the mid-pipe clamps. They loosed up no problem, but would not slide back onto the over-axle side of the pipes. After wasting more time messing with them, I discovered that you have to lift up on this little tab that indexes with an alignment rivet (just like the muffler pipe to over-axle pipe). Use a screwdriver and gently lift up on the tab.
Once all is loose and ready to drop, carefully pull the hanger rods from the rubber mounts and it'll come down.
A 22mm open end wrench was used to remove the O2 sensors. I moved them over one at a time. I used a dab of anti-sieze lube on the O2 sensor threads before screwing them into the threaded boss of the H-Pipe.
Because I just wanted to install this thing, I chose to use the included saddle clamp. I orientated them facing aft at first, but discovered that it'll interfere with the mid-pipe clamps when tightening. So, I face them forward. A drop of red Loctite was used on the clamp nuts.
Side-by-side comparison between the factory H-Pipe and the Pypes Off-Road H.
Everything gets re-installed like it was. I put some Anti-Sieze on thet threads of the O2 sensors and on the manifold nuts. And don't forget to reconnect all 3 O2 sensors! I left tightening the the 'H' saddle clamp until last so there's no preload in that section. That clamp is a piece, you can't really crank down on those nuts because they'll start to slip. I'll definately keep an eye on this clamp for any loosening or slipping. ** UPDATE: after 8 months, clamp is still on tight. **
Installation complete!
The sound israw and pure! Be forwarned though, if you dislike any droning sounds at all, this O/R-H may not be for you. However, if you're intoloud and obnoxious, this is most definitely for you!
Here's some vids (the camera mic doesn't even come close to what it actually sounds like, but you get the idea.)
video 1: Launch; windows up
video 2: From a roll; windows down
video 3: Start and revs
Pypes tubing diameter: 2.50"
Pypes H slip fitting diameters:
Female OD (drivers side): 2.150"
Male OD (passengers side): 1.990"
When the box was delivered, it looked like it was in bad shape. I was worried that the pipes were dented or something, but everything was okay.
Here's the H-Pipe layed out straight from the box.
Passengers side forward O2 sensor and manifold flange.
Passengers side rear O2 sensor.
Drivers side rear O2 sensor.
The 2 rear O2 sensors (colored BLUE).
Note: On Automatics, the rear O2 sensor plugs are conviently plugged right next to each other.
Next came time to unplug the (passenger side) forward O2 sensor (colored GREEN). This proved to be a royal pain in the butt. I tried to reach the connection plug from the bottom (impossible) and from the top (barely touching my fingers on the plug). Not to waste anymore time, I yanked the battery and tray out. Problem solved.
Now it was time to break loose the exhaust manifold bolts. You need a swivel, deep socket, and a long extension to accomplish this, especially for the upper nuts. After fighting the nuts for several minutes (wouldn't budge for the life of me), I sprayed some penetrating oil on the nuts and like magic, they came off with minimal effort! Who knew...
Now it was time to loosen the mid-pipe clamps. They loosed up no problem, but would not slide back onto the over-axle side of the pipes. After wasting more time messing with them, I discovered that you have to lift up on this little tab that indexes with an alignment rivet (just like the muffler pipe to over-axle pipe). Use a screwdriver and gently lift up on the tab.
Once all is loose and ready to drop, carefully pull the hanger rods from the rubber mounts and it'll come down.
A 22mm open end wrench was used to remove the O2 sensors. I moved them over one at a time. I used a dab of anti-sieze lube on the O2 sensor threads before screwing them into the threaded boss of the H-Pipe.
Because I just wanted to install this thing, I chose to use the included saddle clamp. I orientated them facing aft at first, but discovered that it'll interfere with the mid-pipe clamps when tightening. So, I face them forward. A drop of red Loctite was used on the clamp nuts.
Side-by-side comparison between the factory H-Pipe and the Pypes Off-Road H.
Everything gets re-installed like it was. I put some Anti-Sieze on thet threads of the O2 sensors and on the manifold nuts. And don't forget to reconnect all 3 O2 sensors! I left tightening the the 'H' saddle clamp until last so there's no preload in that section. That clamp is a piece, you can't really crank down on those nuts because they'll start to slip. I'll definately keep an eye on this clamp for any loosening or slipping. ** UPDATE: after 8 months, clamp is still on tight. **
Installation complete!
The sound israw and pure! Be forwarned though, if you dislike any droning sounds at all, this O/R-H may not be for you. However, if you're intoloud and obnoxious, this is most definitely for you!
Here's some vids (the camera mic doesn't even come close to what it actually sounds like, but you get the idea.)
video 1: Launch; windows up
video 2: From a roll; windows down
video 3: Start and revs
04-17-2007, 02:37 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location:
Posts: 237
RE: Pypes Off-Road H-Pipe Install (w/pics)
ORIGINAL: Brute03
great write up man. so s-197's only have one upstream o2 sensor?
great write up man. so s-197's only have one upstream o2 sensor?
04-17-2007, 02:40 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location:
Posts: 415
RE: Pypes Off-Road H-Pipe Install (w/pics)
ORIGINAL: modular81
Actually they have two upstream o2 sensors and two downstreams. The drivers side front o2 is located on the exhaust manifold, so it doesn't go on the mid pipe like the passengers side does.
ORIGINAL: Brute03
great write up man. so s-197's only have one upstream o2 sensor?
great write up man. so s-197's only have one upstream o2 sensor?
04-17-2007, 03:06 PM
#8
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 1,313
RE: Pypes Off-Road H-Pipe Install (w/pics)
Tacobill,
Why did you chose to disconnet the O2 sensors instead of just unscrewing them from the mid pipe, installing the new mid pipe and then screwing back in the O2 sensors?
Was it because it is hard to get a wrench to them while still connected to the mid pipe?
Why did you chose to disconnet the O2 sensors instead of just unscrewing them from the mid pipe, installing the new mid pipe and then screwing back in the O2 sensors?
Was it because it is hard to get a wrench to them while still connected to the mid pipe?
04-17-2007, 08:24 PM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Midland, Texas
Posts: 233
RE: Pypes Off-Road H-Pipe Install (w/pics)
Tacobill,
Why did you chose to disconnet the O2 sensors instead of just unscrewing them from the mid pipe, installing the new mid pipe and then screwing back in the O2 sensors?
Was it because it is hard to get a wrench to them while still connected to the mid pipe?
Why did you chose to disconnet the O2 sensors instead of just unscrewing them from the mid pipe, installing the new mid pipe and then screwing back in the O2 sensors?
Was it because it is hard to get a wrench to them while still connected to the mid pipe?
