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Instead of dynamat I again used a thin piece of rubber slid inbetween the oil pan and the separator plate. As you can see I also used ultra black RTV silicon after to keep it in place and also packed it in everywhere else the plate didn't sit flush and could have been rattling.
Sound is 100% gone.
Can someone show me which area this is supposed to be done to? I need to do this, I am just completely clueless as which parts are needed to be pulled.
At 15 seconds you can see where you have to place the rubber/dynamat and silicone. In between the two rust colored screws, to the left, and to the right.
I was able to get the silicone in on the left and the right sides of the screws but in-between the two is where you have to slide something up there. I just used a skinny flat head to help me get one side of the rubber piece up there and then to get it in on the other side. Then put the silicone on the flat head and kept packing it up there until i was sure it wouldn't fall out on me.
When your under there looking straight up toward the sky you see the plate, follow it up and you can see the edge of the engine oil pan with maybe 2 tenths of an inch or the width of a nickle of space in-between the two (separator plate and edge oil pan).
You just need to slide the piece of rubber/dynamat in-between the two and glob the sealer on after to keep the rubber piece in place. Id say 90% of the noise is coming from there.
At 15 seconds you can see where you have to place the rubber/dynamat and silicone. In between the two rust colored screws, to the left, and to the right.
I was able to get the silicone in on the left and the right sides of the screws but in-between the two is where you have to slide something up there. I just used a skinny flat head to help me get one side of the rubber piece up there and then to get it in on the other side. Then put the silicone on the flat head and kept packing it up there until i was sure it wouldn't fall out on me.
When your under there looking straight up toward the sky you see the plate, follow it up and you can see the edge of the engine oil pan with maybe 2 tenths of an inch or the width of a nickle of space in-between the two (separator plate and edge oil pan).
You just need to slide the piece of rubber/dynamat in-between the two and glob the sealer on after to keep the rubber piece in place. Id say 90% of the noise is coming from there.
Ah..Okay, great. I took that lower plate there off and thought it was that. I've got some really heavy duty ribbed rubber material we use on utility carts. I'm going to try that. The ribs will also help keep it in place.
Thanks for the detail, I really appreciate it and am sure others will too.
So this is the best I can do at the moment. The big plate covering the clutch is what is rattling because of minor contact with clutch. When installed only the bottom of the plate is visible where it connects to motor. I put dynamat on that plate part I could see. Also has 2 blots you can loopen if you need to try rubber. Hope it helps. I miss that car.
Originally Posted by Drock2010
Did you ever fix the problem or get pics?? I'm not sure what to look for. Thanks in advance
The reason i ask is because i printed out the TSB issue for the transmission plate, brought the car to Ford and after a few hours they determined that the ratteling was not coming from the plate at all. It was actually coming from a loose exhaust connection, where the mid pipe meets the header on the passenger side.
What was happening was, at start up, while the exhaust was cool, the mid pipe would shake "rattle" against the header connection for about 3 minutes and would go away at idle after that. Once the metal would expand from the heat, the idle rattle would go away. I only heard the rattle after while letting off the gas while driving and listening to the exhaust "over run" like in a tunnel or new a wall, where the rattle would echo. Sounded like ****, anyway..since if wasn't the transmission plate at all, i took the car to an exhaust shop and they welded the midpipe back too the header, ensuring me a lifetime of no more rattle, that was about a year ago, and there has been no rattle under the car since.
Total cost was $50 and took about 30 minutes.
If it helps, i have stock headers, and an off road after market H mid-pipe.
The way we figured this out at the dealer was, while the car was lifted, and the exhaust was cool, bang around the midpipe and header connections to see if there is any squeaking, which would be causing the rattle.
BTW this tsb issue could also be a culprit to the problem, i did thy this before bringing the car to the dealer and exhaust shop, problem persisted at the time, but at least I know I eliminated that probable cause to the problem..
I went the spacer route (one thin metal washer, one thin rubber washer), and it completely eliminated the noise.
Is there a reason I can't see these pictures? I have a 2005 v6 and have a rattle at startup and when I rev in park and neutral also tin cannish rattling haven't taken it anywhere yet. And am new to this.
Is there a reason I can't see these pictures? I have a 2005 v6 and have a rattle at startup and when I rev in park and neutral also tin cannish rattling haven't taken it anywhere yet. And am new to this
08-27-2013, 12:44 PM
