2005 - 2014 MustangsDiscussions on the latest S197 model Mustangs from Ford.
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Hey everyone. I know most people (myself included) post only when we have a problem. I am today posting because I have a solution. It seems that everytime I take the car to the dealership to fix one thing, they give it back with something else broken. This time, I sent it in to have the door handles replaced (they wouldn't retract when pulled). They fixed it beautifully. But, to my amazement, the driver's window would now not go up all the way when the button was fully pressed. Also (and much worse), the window short-drop was totally disabled. When I closed the door, the window would not go up automatically that last quarter of an inch, so there was a gap. The dealership told me I had to take it back. Good lord.
Instead, I got on my trusty Mitchell On Demand 5.1, and I looked up the problem. Hallelujah! Ford has equipped our windows with an automatic calibration method. I don't know if others have the problem, but for the ones that do, here's the solution, from Mitchell's. So, credit to them. The problem took all of 7 seconds to fix:
I have a question about the "calibration" procedure. My pass window clips the conv roof. Sometimes, the window stays on the outside of the roof. I afraid it might break the window someday. Otherwise, the short drop appears to be working properly. I performed the recommended de-initialization, re-initialization, and calibration procedures, and the window still clips the roof. It's beginning to fray. So, do you think this procedure actually calibrates? Do you think there's a way to adjust the "drop-distance"?
I thought I would put my success up. Somewhere on this site someone said to fix the window of dropping half way after a new battery install simply turn the key to on, drop the window while disconnecting the battery. Turn key back off and then rehook battery. Done. Window fixed itself with no need to calibrate. I tried the recall rate and nothing worked. I called ford and they wanted $89 to relearn. Jeez, I just replaced the battery I didn't want to get scr&@. This small little issue might likely make me think twice about a ford. It was bad enough to have to buy a battery.
The motor can be de-initialized in 2 ways:
Disconnect the battery cable from the battery while the window is operating.
Remove the window motor fuse while the window is operating.
After the motor has been de-initialized, reconnect/reinstall the battery cable or fuse and carry out the initialization procedure.
WARNING: Keep objects and body parts clear of the glass panel when carrying out the initialization procedure. During the initialization procedure, the glass panel closes with high force and cannot detect objects in its path. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury.
NOTE: If this procedure is only partially completed, the front window motor remains non-initialized and may allow one-touch down operation, but does NOT allow one-touch up operation.
NOTE: The door MUST be closed during this procedure (for convertibles, the top and quarter glass must be in the CLOSED and UP position) in order for the door window motor to initialize.
NOTE: The windows must be in the full OPEN position for this procedure to operate correctly.
Press and hold the window control switch in the UP position at the second detent until the window glass stalls into the glass top run for at least 2 seconds.
Once the top run is reached, hold the window control switch in the DOWN position at the second detent until the window glass stalls at the bottom of its travel for at least 2 seconds.
Cycle the window glass up and down once more to set the window soft stop for the DOWN position.
Test for correct window operation by carrying out the one-touch up and one-touch down features.
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