Blackhawk

Okay, I was told it was actual HP numbers that you need to pay special attnetion to by several manufacturers/tuners... [sm=WTFsgign.gif]

Cause knowing what I know about boost whether it be SC or turbo applications. I could get a lot more hp out of a 76mm turbo @10psi, than I could a 62mm @10psi. So I question the thread you speak of.

If the motor handles ~500rwhp ~ before you push the stock internals past their threshold, its' not going to make a difference how you get there. If it takes 12psi through a SC or 8.5psi through a turbo, there's no difference 500hp is 500hp... The motor doesn't know how it's getting there, just that there's enough fuel/air to push it that far.

TJ

I agree with you Blackhawk good post it is also the the power you are making imo, the more power (HP)you make the more pressure on the pistons and rods bottem end you will have theGT (stock)3v 4.6 internals.One person running 450rwhp @ 10psi andlets just say one was able tomake 525rwhp @10psithe 525rwhp motor is at higher risk of having a major motor failure.

Blackhawk

thanks TJ.

I do want to add that there are many variables that CAN lead to a safer set-up (i.e. A/F, lower intake temps, timing, etc.)

But ultimately it comes down to hp. If the resident experts say the internals of the stock 3v motor are relatively safe until around 450~rwhp, than it shouldn't matter how you get there. Once you are there, you're there... Some people have probably run there cars at 500rwhp for the past two years with no problems. Some might have had a failure after just 4 months. It all depends on how the car is driven as well, and how long the car is actually run at peak hp. If it's only there for a few seconds here and there, it's a lot less likely to really stress anything out if it's tuned properly.

marcuskeeler

Not entirely true. Due to the parasitic power taken to spin the S/C, the motor has to make more than a Turbo to get 500hp at the crank.

moosestang

Different dynos, different engines, different tune for 93 oct. It could be different mods, i think I picked up a few hp going to the pypes mid mufflers over the stock exhaust or gta mufflers. I don't seem to have any tractions shifting hard into second now even with a 275/50/17 drag radial. I be looking for some wider tires in the future. There's a dyno video on youtube that made 489rwhp.

Blackhawk

Okay, so that's even worse.... Is it not?

moosestang

I do! I be sticking to the whipple tune, they really hype their tune so it can't be all bad. I don't see a dyno tune being any safer and I don't want to make any more power on the stock engine. I'm getting it dynoed in January just to see what it's making and what the air/fuel ratio looks like, but all the dyno sheets i've seen for the stock tune look the same. I had my tune done for 91 oct, however I always fill up with 93. If my engine was going to detonate from a lean air/fuel ratio, i'd have expected it to have done it allready. If it ain't broke then don't fix it.

hammeron

i love the FRPP tune.....the only thing
about it, is i might be a little more
rich than one would like......

moosestang

I think he was saying you could be making more power than is relatively safe for the motor. If that's what he meant then i'm not sure why he recommended getting a dyno tune, unless to detune it some.

I just beat on my car on the way back from the inlaws, but second gear didn't hook. It was still fun hearing the roar of the pypes and the *** end sliding all over the place.

moosestang

I think it might be a little too rich also, but I don't want to lean it out and make more power. I bet I could get better gas mileage with a dyno tune though. I'm only getting 17 on average and 21 at 70mph on the highway. I can't knock the tune though, it's always run great, starts right up and the power is incredible. I will get it dyno tuned when the built block gets here.