Birdieman4

Yes, after that the tranny would be questionable, but the next thing I would be concerned about is the crank. Once you hit bigg-ish hp #'s, the stock crank is in jeopardy. So, to answer your question, I think the next weakest link is the crank, with the tranny and pistons not too far behind.

GWFoos

Do you need a tune for upgrading the internals? Also, with the internals, can you do them piece meal? Do the connecting rods, then later do the crankshaft, then do the pistons, then the tranny, etc.? Not to say I would do it that way, but the connecting rods being the weakest link, I might consider upgrading them first and waiting on the rest if the difference is 50rwhp in the breaking point between the rods and the next 'weakest link'.

Birdieman4

Changing, say, the rods won't be cause for a new tune by itself. If you are going into the engine, you might as well do everything. It just doesn't make sense to take everything apart just to do the rods. If you are going to upgrade to forged internals, you might as well do the pistons, crank and rods all at once. Heavier duty valve springs would be a good upgrade. Cams would also be a good upgrade.

GWFoos

What would the cost of upgrading the internals run, from a parts perspective? I have been told that the labor would run about $1400.

Birdieman4

As little as half of that for the internals themselves. But like you said, it's the labor that adds up fast.

GWFoos

$700 for the internals??? Seriously?

I know there are different brand names (e.g., Manley) that cost more, but I have seen the crankshaft listed for $500 and the connecting rods in the $200+ range base. If you can let me know how to get the internals collectively for $700 I might throw the forged internals in a year before the sc. I have the money for the internals and labor, but not for the sc. And with the sc, I want to be able to run good numbers without any worries, so the internals might be the way to go to start. Thoughts?

Lost: I know that you are interested in this information, so I am sure that you don't feel as though I have hijacked the thread.

Birdieman4

My plan of attack would be to do the blower, get it tuned, and leave the internals stock. Run it that way for a while, then you can decide if you want to upgrade internally. Often times people want to go the whole 9 yards all at once, which is fine, but a car making 440 rwhp is no slouch. You might be very happy with your car at 440 rwhp, and not 'need' to upgrade to more hp. So I say save your $ for a blower and tune first. With 440 rwhp tuned correctly, your car will be very, very safe.

GWFoos

440rwhp I am sure will be fine. The auto tranny and internals will be fine with this number?

The Saleen series vi is 400hp at the crank with 5psi, so what size pulley would put me at 440rwhp (8psi) and still have everything safe?

lostsoul

your rock Birdieman4, you guys asked the same things I was thinking.. wooo.. I might have a good contact for the procharger unit!! I will let you guy know when I hear back from them and post it. I think they will offer the unit for $ 4100-4200.. 55 bucks shipping. I'll keep you posted

Birdieman4

Yes, at 440 rwhp the tranny is fine, as well as your internals, as long as it is tuned right. Because the series 6 is so new, I don't yet know what size pulley they are using to achieve their hp #'s. I am guessing by the size of the blower (2.3 liters) it will come with around a 4' pulley or bigger. Just a guess, but I would say to make 9 psi the pulley will need to be around 3.6'. These are all purely guesses until I know exactly how big the Saleen 'stock' pulley is. I will find out soon enough.