rshamekh

So, the option of being able to open the windows
with the factory fob was only on the first S197s?

I know I have it and my car was built 1/2005.

Lethaldosage423

When ilived in England we had a vauxhall Omega (sportier version of a Cadillac Catera) and when you held the lock button the sun roof closed as did all the windows...great for the rain (Especially in England)

i would buy one for shure..i was thinking about remote start so i can get my A/C going for those hot days here in CA

Legion5

If you don't have the upgraded alarm your alarm won't go off anyway randomly. I was planning on getting an after market alarm and doing the same thing with the panic button.

Is there some way to force the car to roll up the windows?

I don't really understand this for example "I can let them up by sticking the key in the keyhole turning it to the right(lock) and hold it there and let them down by turning the left(unlock) and holding it there.
It's kinda like my buddy's audi except his will roll up with the remote too! " though this quote is from an 05 owner.

Boozshey

That's what I was going to say also. Almost like reinventing the wheel.

Take it to your dealership and if they know anything they will be able to turn it on.

From years ago when we all first got our cars this was a heavy subject and has sense died with the times. At that time, people were able to get it reactivated to work by asking their dealership to turn it back on. Seemed to work for them after that. I would start asking around the service centers before doing some crazy project?

157dB

Crazy?

Its called Life and I am livin it.

Fork the stealership.

The SJBs software have been upgraded from the old
05 version with the window option to the new 06-present
version that does not support the option.
The best bet would be to get a SJB from an 05, load
the as built data for your stang into it (stealership again)
and then it would support that option.
Now thats a Crazy project.

jgoss

Mine was built 03/22/2005, I don't have the remote window down feature. Additionally, I've had my door panels off and there's no "switches" or anything behind the driver's door handle/lock assembly. I would think something would be needed to detect which way the key was being turned. Perhaps there's only a small 2-3 month window where the car still came with the correct build options, but disabled in the ECU.

However, that being said, I do intend to install a remote window solution in the car. I did this before on my last vehicle by building a control module that was triggered by an output from the alarm system. It allowed the windows to be alternately raised and lowered. Looking at the schematic provided (thanks for that link btw), it would be even easier to do this for our cars. All the signals are low current, because the motors contains their own logic modules. You only need 1 small relay to break the existing DACC line and provide low current power to the window motors (the RD-LB wire), all the up/down signals could be done by low current transistor drivers. Pretty sure I could accomplish this with a small 2"x2" circuit board.

That being said, let me brag a little about my last accomplishment... =) I just finished building a remote starter enable circuit, with auto TCS disable. My Mustang is a manual shift, I don't know if anyone else has installed a "proper" manual tranny autostart unit, but I did...at first. What a pain in the ****! You had to go through this whole stupid procedure to get the remote starter to work. You had to:
- with vehicle still running, set the parking brake.
- press the "Start" button on the remote.
- lights will flash, now exit the vehicle and close all doors within 20 seconds.
- press the "Arm" button, the vehicle will arm and shut off.
- car can now be started by remote.
I understand the concept, I mean, now the remote starter knows it can safely start the vehicle out of gear. Additionally to this, if you ever open a door without starting the vehicle by remote first, it would no longer remote start. I guess the system assumes that when you came back to get the wallet you forgot, you also stuck it in gear too. Anyways, I got fed up with that pretty quick. I ripped it out and installed the automatic version instead. Now, the obvious problem with putting an automatic remote starter in a manual is the risk that the vehicle will be left in gear. I actually know of 3 different cases where this happened to friends of mine, and the results were a runaway vehicle. Additionally, in all 3 cases, the vehicle had been previously lent to someone else, who had left the car in gear. The regular driver gets into the habit of not leaving the car in gear, the issue primarily is if somebody else drives the vehicle.

My solution to this was to build a remote start enable module. The module uses the existing TCS button and TCS Off LED on the center console. It "sees" the button and can activate the LED, but does not interfere with the normal functionality. When I park my car and set the parking brake, I then have to "double-click" the TCS button on the center console to arm the starter. The LED does a few quick flashes to confirm to me that it is armed and then continues to flash once every few seconds to indicate that the starter is good to go. When the parking brake is lowered, the module disarms and won't allow remote starting anymore. If you have a remote starter installed in your Mustang, then you also have some sort of bypass module to get around the PATS system. The one I have is triggered by the remote starter and sends a 3rd key assignment signal over the bus to simulate a key in the ignition. My module goes "between" the remote starter and the bypass module, if the module isn't armed, it won't allow the bypass module to be triggered, and the Mustang will not start.
Anybody other than myself who happens to drive the car will probably leave it in gear. If I happen to forget and try to start the car anyways, it's pretty much guaranteed that they didn't arm the system as well, so I'm safe.

Additionally, the module can be set to automatically turn off the TCS 3 seconds after ignition power is turned on...another handy feature that anyone else who got the ABS/TCS package but drives a little on the spirited side will agree with. I can send a schematic and firmware to anyone who might be interested. You would need a PicStart Plus programmer to flash the Microchip PIC12F675 processor.

Anyways, sorry for the long off-topic rant. I'll be designing a remote window module that will be triggered by a single alarm system output. The alarm system I installed has an extra output for this type of thing, but it could also be used with the factory trunk release I suppose. I intend to make the schematic available to anyone who wants it when I'm done.

DarkFireGT

The one problem that I see with this is, if you accidentally hit the button, you'll have to go out to the car and roll them up. Or worse, you accidentally hit the button and don't know it. If you have to double tap and hold, then you'd be ok. But if it's just wired to the panic button, I think it could cause a problem.

157dB

Or a magnet on the shifter rod where it exits the shifter and a reed switch
to tell the starter its in Neutral. A little simpler and idiotproof as well.

jgoss

Indeed, I first investigated that approach as well. It would've been easier, but have you ever lifted the upper boot to see how little room is under there? The only space where you could do it would be under the car I think, which would expose to rain, road debris, etc. I was worried it would be prone to mechanical failure over time. I think my appproach was clean and did the trick. But if you implement a magnetic switch method, please take pics and post, I'd like to see how you did it.

157dB

The magnet/reed is placed UNDER the vehicle, not under the shifter boot INSIDE.
Last time I checked, magnets were not prone to water damage and reed switches are sealed glass assemblies. So water damage is out of the question.
JB weld a strong rare earth magnet to the shifter shaft UNDER the stang on the
opposite end from the sfifter ****. Now fashion a simple bracket to place
the reed switch under but not touching the shifter rod/magnet where it would be
if it was in neutral. Plenty of room and mounting options under there.
Or use a proximity switch.