Upgrade brakes or Larger Brake kit.
#1
Upgrade brakes or Larger Brake kit.
I'm having brake issues and have come to crossroad. Do I upgrade my rotors with new drilled/slotted rotors and use Hawk pads? The other choice is to spend the money and buy a big brake kit. The problem with buying the big brake is that they will not fit my wheels. So do I spend $600 on rotors and pads or plus $2K on wheels and a big brake kit? I know the upgraded brakes will not be as good as a big brake kit but what would you do?
#2
I'm having brake issues and have come to crossroad. Do I upgrade my rotors with new drilled/slotted rotors and use Hawk pads? The other choice is to spend the money and buy a big brake kit. The problem with buying the big brake is that they will not fit my wheels. So do I spend $600 on rotors and pads or plus $2K on wheels and a big brake kit? I know the upgraded brakes will not be as good as a big brake kit but what would you do?
Almost everyone i have heard from on the board said that for DD, street use, even drag racing, big brake kits arn't needed. Only really for track cars.
Also keep in mind no spare can go on with a big brake kit.
Basically unless you plan on constant tracking your not going to see a real performance gain, and if you like the look of drilled and slotted you might as well get stock size replacement ones, and you can switch brake pads out and paint your calipers if you would like and have better then stock performance but still save like $1400, and look just as good and nice as a big brake kit would anyways.
#3
When my OEM pads are worn out, I'm going to get just the Hawk pads. No slotted or drilled rotors for me. I don't care if people say they look cool or whatever. I heard that those kind of rotors wear down pads quicker. Why would I want that?
#4
All you need is new brake fluid (HP), SS lines, and hawk pads and that should solve your problem....much cheaper then big brakes and new rims and actually might brake better with the 3 mods mentioned above. this has been debated and many agree on what I just wrote!
#5
I got a pretty nice PM from legion 5 regarding some brakes and am considering that option. However, I do not do any road racing and but do plan on going to the track. SS lines, HP brake fluid, hawk pads, and new rotors maybe an option. Oh since I'm doing this I might as well add a line lock. I'm still researching the big brake kit and will make my decision soon.
#6
I agree if you dont track the car stockers are fine.
To me any big brake kit that isnt for the track is pure looks, but they are oh so pretty.
I think when the time comes for me to change out the rotors I will go with the Bear Eradispeed + 2's. These come with a bracket to move the stock caliper out and give you a 14" rotor. I will do SS lines and fluid swap at the same time as well as better pads. I figure braking should improve somewhat and looks will improve too.
I will just paint the caliper black.
For the rears I will just get a rotor in the stock size to match so I can still use my 17" stock wheels at the track.
To me any big brake kit that isnt for the track is pure looks, but they are oh so pretty.
I think when the time comes for me to change out the rotors I will go with the Bear Eradispeed + 2's. These come with a bracket to move the stock caliper out and give you a 14" rotor. I will do SS lines and fluid swap at the same time as well as better pads. I figure braking should improve somewhat and looks will improve too.
I will just paint the caliper black.
For the rears I will just get a rotor in the stock size to match so I can still use my 17" stock wheels at the track.
#7
Drilled rotors are strictly for bling. They have less surface area, so braking power actually goes down. They usually crack around the holes, so you'll be replacing them avery couple of years or so.
Slotted rotors are usefull when you're you're really beating on the brakes. They tend to get hot, and glaze over. The slots will shave that glazing off, kinda like a cheese slicer. That means you'll be replacing pads pretty often.
If you want more stopping power and a better pedal feel, use a quality pad like HAwk or Carbon Friction.
The most ipmortant thing is to resurface the rotors for the new pads, and then break in the pads exactly according to the instructions. And I do mean exactly.
If you're brakes are overheating because of overuse on the street, you're dangerous and should be stopped from driving at all. If you're on the track, install cooling ducts; much more effective than anything else you could do.
#9
Alright, so big brakes are out of the question for me. I dont drive my car much more these days. It was a daily driver for the first two years of its life, approximately 26k. I have only driven the car about 5k over the last year and a half.
I'm replacing the brakes because my brake pads are thin. As an Officer I dont drive fast knowing that i could lose my job for road racing. I save my urges for the track besides i have seen my share of traffic collisions and many bloody scenes.
I'm pretty new to the track and need more/new stopping power. Since I'm gonning to be replacing my brake pads I might as well do it the right way and upgrade in the process. I dont mind replacing pads so long as i stop better.
So this is what i plan on purchasing, Hawk HPS pads front and rear, SS lines front only, better brake fluid, SLP line lock, and maybe drilled/slotted rotors. I
I'm replacing the brakes because my brake pads are thin. As an Officer I dont drive fast knowing that i could lose my job for road racing. I save my urges for the track besides i have seen my share of traffic collisions and many bloody scenes.
I'm pretty new to the track and need more/new stopping power. Since I'm gonning to be replacing my brake pads I might as well do it the right way and upgrade in the process. I dont mind replacing pads so long as i stop better.
So this is what i plan on purchasing, Hawk HPS pads front and rear, SS lines front only, better brake fluid, SLP line lock, and maybe drilled/slotted rotors. I