11-04-2015, 12:17 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Powertrain Guides
- Ford Mustang Gt 1996 to 2004: Fuel System Diagnostic Guide
Guide to diagnose trouble and recommended solutions
Browse all: Powertrain Guides
GT500 fuel pumps DIY w/ Pictures!
04-19-2010, 08:15 PM
#22
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 391
Well I followed these directions to a T and my car started for a few seconds and then died everything is hooked up right as far as wiring goes my gas gauge and miles to empty work right, currently shows 20 miles to empty.
Only thing I can think I possible done wrong is as follows please help...
The new GT 500 pump has a black hose with a wire tie on it, it looked like it was supposed to be this was. Was I supposed to cut that wire tie and let hose go straight down instead of going upward like it was out of the box?
Only thing I can think I possible done wrong is as follows please help...
The new GT 500 pump has a black hose with a wire tie on it, it looked like it was supposed to be this was. Was I supposed to cut that wire tie and let hose go straight down instead of going upward like it was out of the box?
04-20-2010, 07:33 AM
#24
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lakeland/Mulberry FL
Posts: 2,263
Well I followed these directions to a T and my car started for a few seconds and then died everything is hooked up right as far as wiring goes my gas gauge and miles to empty work right, currently shows 20 miles to empty.
Only thing I can think I possible done wrong is as follows please help...
The new GT 500 pump has a black hose with a wire tie on it, it looked like it was supposed to be this was. Was I supposed to cut that wire tie and let hose go straight down instead of going upward like it was out of the box?
Only thing I can think I possible done wrong is as follows please help...
The new GT 500 pump has a black hose with a wire tie on it, it looked like it was supposed to be this was. Was I supposed to cut that wire tie and let hose go straight down instead of going upward like it was out of the box?
check your fuse to the pumps and check to make sure you put the relay back in the correct spot. im not sure what hose your talking about with a zip tie.
04-20-2010, 10:21 PM
#25
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 391
I'm posting this here for the benefit of everyone not to make the same stupid mistake I did. Make sure you put the fuse in the cap ford made no mention of this just talked about hooking the wires up but never about where to plug the fuse in. Maybe this goes without say for most but I couldn't figure it out until I got help.
Thanks to 2007CalSpec:
Thanks to 2007CalSpec:
The old fuel pump connector doesn't get used which is correct. You only need the two wires from it for the fuel level gauge.
During my Whipple install, I noticed the end of the harness for the GT500 pump had a pin connector which seemed odd. How am I going to use that connector to hook it up to the fuse block in the engine bay, I asked myself. I then realized what that little fuse and fuse holder with the red wire was for. The pin connector slides into the back of the fuse holder and the fuse holder connects to a black cap. The red wire then connects to the fuse block. I've included some pics of the fuse and fuse holder...
I'm pointing to the power wire from the GT500 fuel pump harness.
I'm pointing to the power wire that is attached to the fuse holder and that connects to the fuse block.
I'm inserting the fuse holder into the black cap to secure it.
I don't know if that will solve your problem but it's a start. Also, when was the last time you changed your fuel filter?
During my Whipple install, I noticed the end of the harness for the GT500 pump had a pin connector which seemed odd. How am I going to use that connector to hook it up to the fuse block in the engine bay, I asked myself. I then realized what that little fuse and fuse holder with the red wire was for. The pin connector slides into the back of the fuse holder and the fuse holder connects to a black cap. The red wire then connects to the fuse block. I've included some pics of the fuse and fuse holder...
I'm pointing to the power wire from the GT500 fuel pump harness.
I'm pointing to the power wire that is attached to the fuse holder and that connects to the fuse block.
I'm inserting the fuse holder into the black cap to secure it.
I don't know if that will solve your problem but it's a start. Also, when was the last time you changed your fuel filter?
Last edited by Analyzer52; 04-20-2010 at 10:24 PM.
05-04-2010, 06:43 PM
#28
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lakeland/Mulberry FL
Posts: 2,263
05-04-2010, 08:26 PM
#29
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Nor Cali
Posts: 2,059
06-05-2010, 04:22 PM
#30
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 2,388
I just have to say...
T H A N K Y O U all so very much!!!
I just installed the GT500 pump, and my kit came with no instructions, so the writeup here is what I followed (so far). The tips on using the notches worked out very well, as that really made it easy holding down the pump while the ring was put into place. And the mention of the dimples in the ring helped as well.
A couple things I ran into, to watch out for:
- the inner fuel line initially got caught and was pushed down out of the way, so I had to pull the pump back out to get to the hose. To keep it up and accessible, so it wouldn't get pushed down again, I used some string to tie the fuel line up (using the wiring harness near the back/side), then when the pump was far enough in, released the string, helping to keep the inner line connector where it could then be put back on.
- getting the pump to over the body was a little tricky, as the fuel pump hole is not exactly centered over the pump hole. Had to rotate the pump a little to get it into a position so I could work the top under the body (the front of the hole in the body is not front-forward enough, as shown in the "Inside the tank you can see the passenger side line" pic. Just carefully work over the lip, then rotate it back into position.
- a note was mentioned about the float, making sure it clears the inner wall; with enough fuel, it's easy, as the float will float. And it's easy enough to see it with the pump mostly in. Yay.
- lastly, I had an issue with the stock wiring harness: it has a part number tag near that end of the harness, and the tag was partly under the pump. So popped the pump out of the 2 retaining notches, slightly raised the pump, and this time made sure the stupid harness tag was not under the pump!
I had a little under 1/4 tank of fuel in the car, and that left about 3-4" in the tank on the driver side. A little more than what i would have liked, but in getting the float in proper position, I was glad I had that much in there!
Now, on to wiring and connecting the harness. I already have a larger 10 ga. wire running back from the engine compartment (as part of an earlier pump wiring upgrade), so I won't have to do that run.
Again, thanks for the great writeup!!!!
T H A N K Y O U all so very much!!!
I just installed the GT500 pump, and my kit came with no instructions, so the writeup here is what I followed (so far). The tips on using the notches worked out very well, as that really made it easy holding down the pump while the ring was put into place. And the mention of the dimples in the ring helped as well.
A couple things I ran into, to watch out for:
- the inner fuel line initially got caught and was pushed down out of the way, so I had to pull the pump back out to get to the hose. To keep it up and accessible, so it wouldn't get pushed down again, I used some string to tie the fuel line up (using the wiring harness near the back/side), then when the pump was far enough in, released the string, helping to keep the inner line connector where it could then be put back on.
- getting the pump to over the body was a little tricky, as the fuel pump hole is not exactly centered over the pump hole. Had to rotate the pump a little to get it into a position so I could work the top under the body (the front of the hole in the body is not front-forward enough, as shown in the "Inside the tank you can see the passenger side line" pic. Just carefully work over the lip, then rotate it back into position.
- a note was mentioned about the float, making sure it clears the inner wall; with enough fuel, it's easy, as the float will float. And it's easy enough to see it with the pump mostly in. Yay.
- lastly, I had an issue with the stock wiring harness: it has a part number tag near that end of the harness, and the tag was partly under the pump. So popped the pump out of the 2 retaining notches, slightly raised the pump, and this time made sure the stupid harness tag was not under the pump!
I had a little under 1/4 tank of fuel in the car, and that left about 3-4" in the tank on the driver side. A little more than what i would have liked, but in getting the float in proper position, I was glad I had that much in there!
Now, on to wiring and connecting the harness. I already have a larger 10 ga. wire running back from the engine compartment (as part of an earlier pump wiring upgrade), so I won't have to do that run.
Again, thanks for the great writeup!!!!