Go Back   MustangForums.com > Ford Mustang Tech > 2005 - 2014 Mustangs
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


2005 - 2014 Mustangs Discussions on the latest S197 model Mustangs from Ford.
Sponsored by Latemodel Restoration


Welcome to Mustang Forums!
Welcome to Mustang Forums.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-14-2008, 01:53 PM   #1
one eyed willy
5th Gear Member
 
one eyed willy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Vehicle: 2007 GT
Location: Lakeland/Mulberry FL
Posts: 2,263
Default GT500 fuel pumps DIY w/ Pictures!

3 hours for install, not too hard with basic hand tools, nothing special needed. Ford has a pretty good write up on this but they dont cover the small details and a few tricks to make it go easy.

Good ideal to do this with a empty tank unless you like the smell of gas. I had less than a inch of fuel accross the bottom of the tank when my gauge was on empty.

You will notice the BAP in the trunk, I installed this prior to the new pumps and removed it when the new pumps went in, I should not need it at this point.

Our fuel tanks are made up of 2 sections because our driveshaft and exhaust running thru the tank, we are only dealing with the driver side pump and hat.

Start with jacking up the front passenger side of the car. If you have to use a ramp like i do,you want to make sure you do this first before pulling the fuel pump relay.

Click the image to open in full size.
With the car jacked up, pull relay 21 under the hood, this should kill the fuel pump. Crank the engine over to make sure,the car should not start. If it does start, then it should die quickly and not restart.

Click the image to open in full size.
Take out the rear seat by looking at the front bottom of the seat and just pushing in the plastic clips, it comes out very easy, There is one clip on each side.

Click the image to open in full size.
Strip down the rear, pull the panel out and the spare tire.

Click the image to open in full size.
Heres what the fuel pump cover looks like soon as you pull the seat out, there is one on the driver and one on the passenger side, we are only dealing with the driver side pump. This cover just pulls off.

Click the image to open in full size.
Remove the lock ring with a screwdriver and hammer, my picture shows the fuel line already disconnected but its better to wait on the fuel line until the lock ring is off. New pumps come with a new gasket and lock ring, so you can abuse the old lock ring as much as you wish when trying to remove it, it does come off with small little at a time so no need to whale on it real hard.

Click the image to open in full size.
This picture shows how to release the fuel line by just pinching the sides together and it just pops off (* do not remove the fuel line until you actually have the lock ring removed first OR it will cause gas to splash up while you are beating the lock ring off * )

Click the image to open in full size.
When the lock ring is removed the pump will pop up, the assembly is spring loaded so it may pop up about 1 inch.

Click the image to open in full size.
You will have to work it out, the hoses do get hung up so just work it side to side. Looking at this picture you can see the passenger side fuel line connected to the main fuel pump.

Click the image to open in full size.
To remove this hose, just push down on the green tab and it will pop right off.

Click the image to open in full size.
Pulled out.

Click the image to open in full size.
Inside the tank you can see the passenger side line.

Click the image to open in full size.
Side by side,old and new.

Click the image to open in full size.
Side by side again.

Click the image to open in full size.
Looking inside the tank you can see a tray that the pump sits in, when you install the new pump you have to make sure the float is outside that tray and facing the passenger side.

Click the image to open in full size.
Getting the new pump in is not easy, it takes alot of wiggeling and squeezing but it will go if you are pateint. Start with the pump on its side and the float going staight into the tank. You dont have to worry about the passnger side fuel line too much, it will be in the right spot when you get the pump in and you will be able to grab it. Once you get the float in, twist the whole pump towards the passenger side, making sure the float will clear the tray inside the tank. You will have to squeeze the hoses from side to side to get the pump down in the hole.

Click the image to open in full size.
With the pump down in the hole, the passenger side hook up will be at about 2 "O" clock.

Click the image to open in full size.
Just push the passenger side hose on until it clicks.
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
__________________


www.StangForce.com.........Best Stangs in Central Florida

Built....not bought. 67mm oil-less comp turbo, built 5.0 , tr6060.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tampa07gt View Post
Next week *****'s going to wire his electronic throttle to the fan relay and run it off his on board LAN to NASA to ensure he runs at the correct temp based on real time global atmospheric conditions. Oh yea after he makes his own installation tools

Last edited by one eyed willy; 06-12-2013 at 10:44 AM.
one eyed willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 01:54 PM   #2
one eyed willy
5th Gear Member
 
one eyed willy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Vehicle: 2007 GT
Location: Lakeland/Mulberry FL
Posts: 2,263
Default

Click the image to open in full size.
New kit comes with new o-ring and new lock ring.

Click the image to open in full size.
Slap a little oil onto the new o-ring. Not alot or it will wiggle out of your hands.

Click the image to open in full size.
This is one of the most crucial parts that I didnt see anywhere else online. Alot of people said that it was very hard to get the new pump in and a second person was needed to hold the new pump down, but its actually alot easier than that. By looking at this picture you can see a little notch in the tank, that notch lines up with the new pump, so if you press the new pump in, get the notchs lined up on both sides and give it a slight twist the pump will hold its self in and you dont need a second person to hold it down. it wont twist much at all ,just enough to catch.

Click the image to open in full size.
Heres a picture of the pump holding it self in with no lock ring, its only hoding it self down by those 2 notchs.

Click the image to open in full size.
Lock ring going in. Heres another trick/tip. alot of people also said how hard it was to get the lock ring lined up all at the same time becuase its about 10 different teeth that have to all line up at the same time. Easy way to accomplish this is to use equal pressure all around the ring at the same time by using 2 different screwdrivers to get the ring started, one screwdriver on each side of the lock ring, it actually slides right in with little pressure for the first 1/4 inch, after that you have to start tapping it with a hammer.

Click the image to open in full size.
Heres the best close up i could get of the teeth on the lock ring, there is a small dimple on the lock ring, and also a small indention on the tank, that dimple goes in to the indention to really lock it in.

Click the image to open in full size.
It takes a little pounding to get it all the way in.

Click the image to open in full size.
Just push the fuel line on until it clicks.

Click the image to open in full size.
Heres a close up of the new fuel pump driver.

Click the image to open in full size.
New harness layed out on driveway, there are 5 plugs on this harness and the hot wire that has to be run up to the fuse box. Its really easy to figure out what plug goes where.

Click the image to open in full size.
Mounting location on the passenger side trunk for the new fuel pump driver. As you can see there are already 2 studs awaiting the new driver.

Click the image to open in full size.
New driver mounted, the kit did not come with the 2 nuts i needed to mount this driver, I was lucky enough to have some laying around.

Click the image to open in full size.
Wiring all in, looks rough but it all gets covered up. You can see the red power wire on the passenger side, this has to be routed to the passenger side kick panel, we will get to that in a moment.

Click the image to open in full size.
Harness going up to the Fuel pump.
__________________


www.StangForce.com.........Best Stangs in Central Florida

Built....not bought. 67mm oil-less comp turbo, built 5.0 , tr6060.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tampa07gt View Post
Next week *****'s going to wire his electronic throttle to the fan relay and run it off his on board LAN to NASA to ensure he runs at the correct temp based on real time global atmospheric conditions. Oh yea after he makes his own installation tools

Last edited by one eyed willy; 02-10-2009 at 08:37 PM.
one eyed willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 01:54 PM   #3
one eyed willy
5th Gear Member
 
one eyed willy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Vehicle: 2007 GT
Location: Lakeland/Mulberry FL
Posts: 2,263
Default

Click the image to open in full size.
Pulled the tire off and pulled off 6 push clips to get the inner fender plastics pulled down.

Click the image to open in full size.
Here you can see what is exposed with the inner fenders pulled down.

Click the image to open in full size.
Inner fender exposed.

Click the image to open in full size.
Here is the power wire coming thru the firewall. the power wire already has a fuse holder attached to it and its way to big to get thru the grommet so i just cut the fuse holder off and soldered it back on once the wire was thru the grommet.

Click the image to open in full size.
All zip tied and taped up.

Click the image to open in full size.
Fuse holder with 30amp fuse

There is a small hole just blow the fuse box that you can bring your power wire up thru. Zip tie it to the factory harness and connect it to the power side of the fuse box.

Click the image to open in full size.
Only thing left is to hook up the new harness to the new pump. unfortunatly its not that simple, you have to pull the fuel gauge sender wires (light blue-yellow stripe and light green violet stripe) out of the old harness and slide them into the new harness. You will need a small tipped screwdriver to do this. The blue piece of plastic has to come out first.

Click the image to open in full size.
You can use the small screwdriver to push the blue piece out from one of the small openings on the side.

Click the image to open in full size.
With the blue plastic out of the way, use the tip of the screwdriver to pry the plastic clip that holds the wire connector in place. Remove the black plastic clip from the back of the plug and blue rubber piece, the light blue-yellow stripe and light green violet stripe wire should come right out.

Click the image to open in full size.
Should look like this.

Click the image to open in full size.
Now put the 2 wires into the new harness in the reverse order. Should look like this.

(*note:some have had to reverse these 2 wires to get a proper reading, maybe becuase of the different years? mine is a 2007)

Click the image to open in full size.
And this.

Click the image to open in full size.
Next you have to cut out a new spot for the new harness on the fuel pump cover,i used a razor blade. 1-1/2 inch hole, about 1 inch from the existing hole.

Click the image to open in full size.
Pull your wires thru.

Click the image to open in full size.
Reinstall the cover.

Thats it, reinstall your fuel pump relay and crank it up, check your fuel gauge to make sure the wires are OK and you get a reading.
__________________


www.StangForce.com.........Best Stangs in Central Florida

Built....not bought. 67mm oil-less comp turbo, built 5.0 , tr6060.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tampa07gt View Post
Next week *****'s going to wire his electronic throttle to the fan relay and run it off his on board LAN to NASA to ensure he runs at the correct temp based on real time global atmospheric conditions. Oh yea after he makes his own installation tools

Last edited by one eyed willy; 06-12-2013 at 10:46 AM.
one eyed willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 02:04 PM   #4
cobra443
4th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Vehicle: 2008 Ford Mustang GT
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 1,881
Send a message via AIM to cobra443
Default

Pics look good! Now just waiting on a write-up!! haha
__________________
Derek
2008 Windveil Blue Mustang Gt 5sp.
Paxton Novi 2200SL
BBK LT's w/ O/R-H
McLeod RST w/ McLeod Steel FW
Paxton Crew Founder
cobra443 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 03:19 PM   #5
hammeron
6th Gear Member
 
hammeron's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Vehicle: 2006 GT
Location: Nicely done
Posts: 11,738
Default

awesome writeup one eyed *****, i
always feel more confidant in doing
a particular project, if i see threads
like this first
hammeron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 04:07 PM   #6
bobby1110
3rd Gear Member
 
bobby1110's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Vehicle: 2006 ford mustang gt
Location: stanley nc
Posts: 527
Send a message via AIM to bobby1110
Default

great write up
__________________

hellion turbo kit 80 triple bb turbo, 3:73 gears, ud pulleys, imrc deletes, mmr 950 stroker motor, fore precision triple fuel hat with 2 gt pumps, fore precision fuel rails, 80lb injectors, competition clutch 1620 and light weight flywheel, 640rwhp 700wtrq 18psi 93 pump gas tuned by Dan and Rob at PRO DYNO
http://mustangforums.com/forum/groups/nc-mustangs.html
bobby1110 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 04:48 PM   #7
Gloves
2nd Gear Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location:
Posts: 435
Default

Great job. I have to consider putting a bigger pump in so i can achieve a higher Nitrous boost. With a bigger pump i can do +175 hp.

Excellent picture and details instructions.
__________________
Gloves is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 05:01 PM   #8
mlcrycc
5th Gear Member
 
mlcrycc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Anaheim, California
Posts: 4,204
Default

Excellent write up, and great pics!! Very nice job, and thanks for the effort for us....


Mike
__________________


2008 Dark Highland Green Bullitt (Prod. # 0115)

2011 Grabber Blue GT500 (1 of 31)[/I][/B]
mlcrycc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 08:06 PM   #9
one eyed willy
5th Gear Member
 
one eyed willy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Vehicle: 2007 GT
Location: Lakeland/Mulberry FL
Posts: 2,263
Default

glad everyone likes it,hopefully it will get some use in the future now that this sites "search" function works good.
__________________


www.StangForce.com.........Best Stangs in Central Florida

Built....not bought. 67mm oil-less comp turbo, built 5.0 , tr6060.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tampa07gt View Post
Next week *****'s going to wire his electronic throttle to the fan relay and run it off his on board LAN to NASA to ensure he runs at the correct temp based on real time global atmospheric conditions. Oh yea after he makes his own installation tools
one eyed willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 08:12 PM   #10
pascal
S197 Section Modder-ator
 
pascal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Vehicle: 06
Location: Orlando FL
Posts: 13,203
Default

Good job one eye...
Better than my **** poor attempts to illustrate my own jobs, lol.
__________________
pascal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 08:12 PM
MustangForums
Ford Mustang




Paid Advertisement

 
 
 
Reply

Tags
500, bap, diy, fuel, gauge, gt, gt500, harness, install, instructions, pictures, problem, problems, pump, pumps, troubleshooting

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
turbo parts are here! one eyed willy 2005 - 2014 Mustangs 420 11-26-2009 07:31 AM

Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
New Sponsors
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:28 PM.

© Internet Brands, Inc.


This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
Emails Backup