Suspension - What do I need?
12-30-2008, 09:48 AM
#11
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Harrisburg PA
Posts: 1,778
So the bottom line is - get the wheels and install them. Then decided if you need an adjustable PHB.
12-30-2008, 10:01 AM
#13
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: N/A
Posts: 2,690
Put the car on a level surface. Hang a string from the fender with a small weight on it. Measure the distance from string to the rim.
Should be more then adequate.
12-31-2008, 10:49 AM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Smithfield Va
Posts: 289
check out taco bills how to stuff for some great how to s
I am no expert but I have lowered the car and made some susp mods, You will get some better performance changing this stuff out but it does cost! both money and a little in noise. I am running wider tires in the back and once I lowered it the shift was very noticable to the eye. had to get the adj p.h. bar. I put on steeda lca and steeda relocation brackets and that really made a big difference, off the line. There is a lot of ways to go but you gotta taylor it to your driving habits. There are some experts on her and they might chime in or they are tired of beating a dead horse.
good luck and have fun.
I am no expert but I have lowered the car and made some susp mods, You will get some better performance changing this stuff out but it does cost! both money and a little in noise. I am running wider tires in the back and once I lowered it the shift was very noticable to the eye. had to get the adj p.h. bar. I put on steeda lca and steeda relocation brackets and that really made a big difference, off the line. There is a lot of ways to go but you gotta taylor it to your driving habits. There are some experts on her and they might chime in or they are tired of beating a dead horse.
good luck and have fun.
12-31-2008, 01:05 PM
#18
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 734
For lowering all you really HAVE to have is the springs and get it aligned. I am running stock shocks till they blow on my eibach pro kit springs and they feel fine. People complain about a rough ride but mine feels fine. I have been running mine for 15k miles now or something like that with no problems and the thing handles like a beast.
Panhard bar is good if the axle isnt centered.
You might need camber bolts if they cant get enough camber out without them.
Other than that you can upgrade stuff while you are down there but if you do it, I would just get springs, shocks if you want, adj panhard bar and camber bolts.
Just my opinion though.
Panhard bar is good if the axle isnt centered.
You might need camber bolts if they cant get enough camber out without them.
Other than that you can upgrade stuff while you are down there but if you do it, I would just get springs, shocks if you want, adj panhard bar and camber bolts.
Just my opinion though.
12-31-2008, 01:40 PM
#19
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: MD
Posts: 76
Ok I'll throw in my $0.02 also.
I went with a more expensive setup than I actually needed. Don't get me wrong I really like the Steeda coil-over kit with the D-Spec adjustable shocks and struts, but I really could have went with the FRPP or Eibach kits. I can only speak for the Steeda components with which I am more than happy, and I think they are well made components.
Make sure you get new upper strut mounts if you replace the struts. The stock ones are prone to failure, especially when reinstalled. One of mine fell apart when I removed it.
I went with a more expensive setup than I actually needed. Don't get me wrong I really like the Steeda coil-over kit with the D-Spec adjustable shocks and struts, but I really could have went with the FRPP or Eibach kits. I can only speak for the Steeda components with which I am more than happy, and I think they are well made components.
Make sure you get new upper strut mounts if you replace the struts. The stock ones are prone to failure, especially when reinstalled. One of mine fell apart when I removed it.
12-31-2008, 05:15 PM
#20
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Detroit Area
Posts: 894
Be very clear about what you want to do. Drag racing compared to road course/canyon carving are different set ups. 95% of the people online will give you drag racing advice and set ups.
Don't waste your time and money on adjustments you don't need if your only lowered an inch or less. Get the fundamentals first. Good balanced set of Springs/shocks/struts, adjustable sway bars front and rear, ditch the leap-frog panhard bar set up, get a watts link, get a STB, G-track bar, LCR's.
If your not drag racing, then forget about the LCR re-location brackets and the adjustable UCA. Don't mess with the camber adjustments till you have set everything else set up.
The watts link solves a vast amount of unstable side step leap frogging in hard cornering over bumps, and plants the rear end more firmly generally in real road hard driving.
Start with the things that you can feel make a difference. Strut mounts and many other stock items are fine until they fail. Don't let vendors lead you into buying things only people in actual competitions need or care about. Erik
Don't waste your time and money on adjustments you don't need if your only lowered an inch or less. Get the fundamentals first. Good balanced set of Springs/shocks/struts, adjustable sway bars front and rear, ditch the leap-frog panhard bar set up, get a watts link, get a STB, G-track bar, LCR's.
If your not drag racing, then forget about the LCR re-location brackets and the adjustable UCA. Don't mess with the camber adjustments till you have set everything else set up.
The watts link solves a vast amount of unstable side step leap frogging in hard cornering over bumps, and plants the rear end more firmly generally in real road hard driving.
Start with the things that you can feel make a difference. Strut mounts and many other stock items are fine until they fail. Don't let vendors lead you into buying things only people in actual competitions need or care about. Erik