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how do you remove the license plate bulb???
#11
Did you try inserting the LED both ways? (reversing polarity)?
#12
#13
Resistor needed??
I tried installing a Syvania Zevo LED light and when I turn the lights on, it stays on for about .25 seconds then it's like it is overloaded. Does anyone have recommendations on an LED bulb or kit that can take the stock power?
#15
Doug,
I just did this over last weekend.
The "screws" are actually just plastic pins that spread the plastic snap holder to keep it in place. if you take a phillips screwdriver and turn the pin, without putting any pressure on it, it will begin to screw out of the holder. Once you can get a finger nail or a pick behind the head of the pin, it just pulls straight out.
With the pins removed, you can then pop out the light holder.
Of note, this bulb is a 194 style wedge bulb. I replaced mine with a 5 LED wedge bulb and it looks cool as hell.
UB10
I just did this over last weekend.
The "screws" are actually just plastic pins that spread the plastic snap holder to keep it in place. if you take a phillips screwdriver and turn the pin, without putting any pressure on it, it will begin to screw out of the holder. Once you can get a finger nail or a pick behind the head of the pin, it just pulls straight out.
With the pins removed, you can then pop out the light holder.
Of note, this bulb is a 194 style wedge bulb. I replaced mine with a 5 LED wedge bulb and it looks cool as hell.
UB10
#16
While unscrewing, pry downward on the fixture with a plastic tool, or flat screw-driver.
Power from the vehicle has nothing do so with the LED over-heating; the LED is
the problem, and I bet it's not over-heating at all. If you go by that theory, the
incandescent bulb would also burn out. No, there is not enough current with LEDS,
so the SBJ doesn't see a light there, so it shuts it down. LEDs are like .5 watts
compared to the 7 watts the OE bulb uses. It's the CAN bus that's the problem.
The SBJ is looking for a 5-7 watt load, and it's not getting it from an LED, so it
shuts off.
I have an LED in my 3rd brake light, it NEVER shuts completely off, it will
glow at night. All the fixtures have this, that's how it detects bad bulbs. It's
just with the incandescent filament, the low current isn't enough to light it.
With an LED, it is... So, my center brake light is always on, just a very slight
glow at night. Day too, you just can't see it. When I wake the car up with
unlocking, or popping the trunk, it gets a little brighter.
Put a resister in parallel with the LED, and I bet it stays lit. You need one that
satisfies the load requirement. If I have to use a load resister, then I won't use
LEDs. The whole reason for using LEDs is lower power consumption. Putting
a load resister on, raises the current load, not what I want or prefer. So, if the
LED does not work when I plug it in, I am not going to use it. If it causes other
issues, when a load resister is required, then I won't use it, simple as that.
the problem, and I bet it's not over-heating at all. If you go by that theory, the
incandescent bulb would also burn out. No, there is not enough current with LEDS,
so the SBJ doesn't see a light there, so it shuts it down. LEDs are like .5 watts
compared to the 7 watts the OE bulb uses. It's the CAN bus that's the problem.
The SBJ is looking for a 5-7 watt load, and it's not getting it from an LED, so it
shuts off.
I have an LED in my 3rd brake light, it NEVER shuts completely off, it will
glow at night. All the fixtures have this, that's how it detects bad bulbs. It's
just with the incandescent filament, the low current isn't enough to light it.
With an LED, it is... So, my center brake light is always on, just a very slight
glow at night. Day too, you just can't see it. When I wake the car up with
unlocking, or popping the trunk, it gets a little brighter.
Put a resister in parallel with the LED, and I bet it stays lit. You need one that
satisfies the load requirement. If I have to use a load resister, then I won't use
LEDs. The whole reason for using LEDs is lower power consumption. Putting
a load resister on, raises the current load, not what I want or prefer. So, if the
LED does not work when I plug it in, I am not going to use it. If it causes other
issues, when a load resister is required, then I won't use it, simple as that.
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