Am I missing something?
#1
Am I missing something?
I was trying to install a BMR a-arm brace.. and just can't get the damn OEM nuts off...
I gave up and started to install some new rear shocks.. I thought the a-arm brace would be cake.. and the springs would give me trouble.. guess I got it wrong.
Anyone install an a-arm brace? any tricks to getting the nuts off? They are in a very tight place..
I gave up and started to install some new rear shocks.. I thought the a-arm brace would be cake.. and the springs would give me trouble.. guess I got it wrong.
Anyone install an a-arm brace? any tricks to getting the nuts off? They are in a very tight place..
#2
They actually aren't in a tight place. You're not trying to get the nut on top of the A-arm off, you should be trying to remove the bolt from the bottom of the rear of the A-arm.......which is on the bottom and the rear of the A-arm. The nut doesn't need to be touched at all........it has a a flange that hits whether you're loosening or tightening.
I just modified mine the other day. Used a 21 MM socket and a 1/2" drive breaker bar to bust it loose. The breaker bar really isn't even needed.......bolt is only torqued to 140 lb-ft. A 1/2 drive wratchet should be plenty, breaker bar just makes it easier.
When you do install the brace, make sure you test fit it both ways. There is a very slight bend in the bar....it's shaped like a V but barely noticable. Install so the point of the V faces the rear of the car. If it faces the front, you won't get your drain plug out of the oil pan.
Make sure you torque the bolts back to 140.
I just modified mine the other day. Used a 21 MM socket and a 1/2" drive breaker bar to bust it loose. The breaker bar really isn't even needed.......bolt is only torqued to 140 lb-ft. A 1/2 drive wratchet should be plenty, breaker bar just makes it easier.
When you do install the brace, make sure you test fit it both ways. There is a very slight bend in the bar....it's shaped like a V but barely noticable. Install so the point of the V faces the rear of the car. If it faces the front, you won't get your drain plug out of the oil pan.
Make sure you torque the bolts back to 140.
#3
Thanks for the info... I just got done with the shocks and have lowered the car. I'll lift it up again tomorrow and reevaluate. I knew it couldn't be as hard as I was making it.
On that note.. the Tokico shocks made a noticeable difference... even though I just installed the rears. I have had steeda sport springs with the OEM shocks for a while, and the ride was getting a little mushy.
On that note.. the Tokico shocks made a noticeable difference... even though I just installed the rears. I have had steeda sport springs with the OEM shocks for a while, and the ride was getting a little mushy.
#4
I just took another look... and the only place the a-brace will fit is where I have been trying to put it. The bolts are positioned such that the flange is on the bottom... and the thing you have to unscrew is on the top. Also.. this is about 8-12 inches back away from the oil pan nut...
This is the only "install" pic I could find:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/05Must...ortInstall.jpg
This is the only "install" pic I could find:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/05Must...ortInstall.jpg
#5
After looking at it fresh today.. and printing out the instructions... and other pictures... it's clear that Ford put the bolts on "upside down" .... so... what would have been an easy off... easy on with a 21 mm socket.. is now going to be a major knuckle crushing event to get them off.... Fun!
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