Difference between Steeda and Griggs?
03-16-2009, 01:25 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 109
Difference between Steeda and Griggs?
I want a car with outstanding handling for any car. Able to compete with Porsche, Ferrari or any other supercar. I read a few articles from Steeda claiming the Q500 has a 1.2G skid pad with street tires and 1 article from Steeda claiming 1.3 G. I have heard nothing but good things about Griggs and the fact that they have recorded a 1.5g in competition is incredible. They also claim a 250+lb weigh loss with their kit. The only down fall is the Griggs kit costs $15K. Im not sure how much the Steeda Q500 or 650 kit costs. Does Steeda's parts reduce weight? I want the best bang for the buck and still be able to compete with the best. If anyone recommends another suspension kit please feel free. I already have Steeda light weight radiator support, Steeda LCA and UCA, and Steeda adj. panhard bar. Thanks for the help.
Steeda:
http://www.steeda.com/new_vehicles/Q500/
Griggs:
http://www.gr40.com/
Steeda:
http://www.steeda.com/new_vehicles/Q500/
Griggs:
http://www.gr40.com/
03-16-2009, 06:00 AM
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Ca
Posts: 63
I think Griggs setup is badass because of the no expense spared approach to making a very capable track car that can compete with Z06s and the like. However, many of the changes they make with that $15,000 package are changes that would not necessarily be welcomed changes for the street. For example, they change the steering rack to a SN-95 unit that is supposed to correct steering geometry but they also modify the steering ratio for a track setup so it's not great for low speed, for on street maneuvers like doing u-turns, amongst other things. They also remove the AC unit, but you have windows for a reason, right
? They also convert the front suspension from a McPherson Strut type setup to a Double A-Arm so there are less geometry changes under cornering load and also allows you to run a 10.5" wheel with up to 305s in the front. They also use spherical bearings at pivot points like in the LCAs instead of poly bushings so a lot of road noise like clunking will be transferred through the chassis, and into the cabin. For a race car, these are great features but for a car that sees a lot of time on the street, some of these features would make it difficult to drive on a daily basis. For example 305's in the front and 315's out might might cause tire shimmy and increase hydroplaning characteristics when wet because of the increase in footprint. These are just a couple things to think about in regards to their track setup.
The next thing is, how good of a driver are you? Investing even half of that $15,000 into a track/street setup might not even be worth it if you don't have the driving capabilities to even utilize the improvement you would make to the car. So as a first thought, maybe you should invest some money into some track days with in-car instructors first? Once you have done that, then it might be worth it to you to take a look at some more extreme setups that Griggs, Steeda, BMR, etc. have to offer.
Aside from that, now that the forums search function is actually functional, maybe you should give that a look. A lot of the guys on this forum are very knowledgeable and you will be able to see all of their setups to get an idea for what you want to do. F1fan, Norm Peterson, and Argonaut are just a few guys you could look into for more in depth advice as to what sort of changes you should make next. Hope this is of some help.
Edit: Sam Strano, who owns a shop and is an Auto-X Champion, is also a great person to look into about suspension advice.
-Chris
? They also convert the front suspension from a McPherson Strut type setup to a Double A-Arm so there are less geometry changes under cornering load and also allows you to run a 10.5" wheel with up to 305s in the front. They also use spherical bearings at pivot points like in the LCAs instead of poly bushings so a lot of road noise like clunking will be transferred through the chassis, and into the cabin. For a race car, these are great features but for a car that sees a lot of time on the street, some of these features would make it difficult to drive on a daily basis. For example 305's in the front and 315's out might might cause tire shimmy and increase hydroplaning characteristics when wet because of the increase in footprint. These are just a couple things to think about in regards to their track setup.The next thing is, how good of a driver are you? Investing even half of that $15,000 into a track/street setup might not even be worth it if you don't have the driving capabilities to even utilize the improvement you would make to the car. So as a first thought, maybe you should invest some money into some track days with in-car instructors first? Once you have done that, then it might be worth it to you to take a look at some more extreme setups that Griggs, Steeda, BMR, etc. have to offer.
Aside from that, now that the forums search function is actually functional, maybe you should give that a look. A lot of the guys on this forum are very knowledgeable and you will be able to see all of their setups to get an idea for what you want to do. F1fan, Norm Peterson, and Argonaut are just a few guys you could look into for more in depth advice as to what sort of changes you should make next. Hope this is of some help.
Edit: Sam Strano, who owns a shop and is an Auto-X Champion, is also a great person to look into about suspension advice.
-Chris
Last edited by Chrisdr; 03-16-2009 at 06:30 AM.
03-16-2009, 09:24 AM
#3
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Near Wash. DC Posts: 13,541
Posts: 2,497
The fact you're comparing the griggs with the steeda means you should go with the steeda.
Also I'm not sure why you care about competing with those cars on the street, because the way you're going about it means you're never going to be able to compete because your car will become undrivable.
I pull 4gs in my race car, does that make it better than your mustang?
The mustang is a fairly well designed car for $1600 you could easily beat those cars and be streetable and I don't mean barley beat but you'd destroy them in every single way (except downforce which you can add but can have questionable looks), anything beyond using suspension kits like that will involve incremental gains with adjustable suspension that take hundreds of hours to tune beyond the results of tuners, Shelby took 2 hundred hours to do the adjustable suspension for the super snake. I've got the priciest coilovers on the market installed on my car ($700 PER corner) but I know that without several pounds of measuring equipment I couldn't set them up to be the best, and I actually didn't when I chose the initial car setup after instalation.
I'd advise you to get the Saleen suspention kit with the Techco Watts link. That setup has already been proven to crush enzos at lower speeds and it feels more than comfortable.
Also I'm not sure why you care about competing with those cars on the street, because the way you're going about it means you're never going to be able to compete because your car will become undrivable.
I pull 4gs in my race car, does that make it better than your mustang?
The mustang is a fairly well designed car for $1600 you could easily beat those cars and be streetable and I don't mean barley beat but you'd destroy them in every single way (except downforce which you can add but can have questionable looks), anything beyond using suspension kits like that will involve incremental gains with adjustable suspension that take hundreds of hours to tune beyond the results of tuners, Shelby took 2 hundred hours to do the adjustable suspension for the super snake. I've got the priciest coilovers on the market installed on my car ($700 PER corner) but I know that without several pounds of measuring equipment I couldn't set them up to be the best, and I actually didn't when I chose the initial car setup after instalation.
I'd advise you to get the Saleen suspention kit with the Techco Watts link. That setup has already been proven to crush enzos at lower speeds and it feels more than comfortable.
Last edited by Legion5; 03-16-2009 at 09:28 AM.
03-17-2009, 01:16 AM
#5
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 109
I think Griggs setup is badass because of the no expense spared approach to making a very capable track car that can compete with Z06s and the like. However, many of the changes they make with that $15,000 package are changes that would not necessarily be welcomed changes for the street. For example, they change the steering rack to a SN-95 unit that is supposed to correct steering geometry but they also modify the steering ratio for a track setup so it's not great for low speed, for on street maneuvers like doing u-turns, amongst other things. They also remove the AC unit, but you have windows for a reason, right? They also convert the front suspension from a McPherson Strut type setup to a Double A-Arm so there are less geometry changes under cornering load and also allows you to run a 10.5" wheel with up to 305s in the front. They also use spherical bearings at pivot points like in the LCAs instead of poly bushings so a lot of road noise like clunking will be transferred through the chassis, and into the cabin. For a race car, these are great features but for a car that sees a lot of time on the street, some of these features would make it difficult to drive on a daily basis. For example 305's in the front and 315's out might might cause tire shimmy and increase hydroplaning characteristics when wet because of the increase in footprint. These are just a couple things to think about in regards to their track setup.
The next thing is, how good of a driver are you? Investing even half of that $15,000 into a track/street setup might not even be worth it if you don't have the driving capabilities to even utilize the improvement you would make to the car. So as a first thought, maybe you should invest some money into some track days with in-car instructors first? Once you have done that, then it might be worth it to you to take a look at some more extreme setups that Griggs, Steeda, BMR, etc. have to offer.
Aside from that, now that the forums search function is actually functional, maybe you should give that a look. A lot of the guys on this forum are very knowledgeable and you will be able to see all of their setups to get an idea for what you want to do. F1fan, Norm Peterson, and Argonaut are just a few guys you could look into for more in depth advice as to what sort of changes you should make next. Hope this is of some help.
Edit: Sam Strano, who owns a shop and is an Auto-X Champion, is also a great person to look into about suspension advice.
-Chris
? They also convert the front suspension from a McPherson Strut type setup to a Double A-Arm so there are less geometry changes under cornering load and also allows you to run a 10.5" wheel with up to 305s in the front. They also use spherical bearings at pivot points like in the LCAs instead of poly bushings so a lot of road noise like clunking will be transferred through the chassis, and into the cabin. For a race car, these are great features but for a car that sees a lot of time on the street, some of these features would make it difficult to drive on a daily basis. For example 305's in the front and 315's out might might cause tire shimmy and increase hydroplaning characteristics when wet because of the increase in footprint. These are just a couple things to think about in regards to their track setup.The next thing is, how good of a driver are you? Investing even half of that $15,000 into a track/street setup might not even be worth it if you don't have the driving capabilities to even utilize the improvement you would make to the car. So as a first thought, maybe you should invest some money into some track days with in-car instructors first? Once you have done that, then it might be worth it to you to take a look at some more extreme setups that Griggs, Steeda, BMR, etc. have to offer.
Aside from that, now that the forums search function is actually functional, maybe you should give that a look. A lot of the guys on this forum are very knowledgeable and you will be able to see all of their setups to get an idea for what you want to do. F1fan, Norm Peterson, and Argonaut are just a few guys you could look into for more in depth advice as to what sort of changes you should make next. Hope this is of some help.
Edit: Sam Strano, who owns a shop and is an Auto-X Champion, is also a great person to look into about suspension advice.
-Chris
03-17-2009, 01:18 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 109
Why did you say go with Steeda? Do you have a link I can read or watch with the setup you recommended against Enzos or anything else? I would like to get more info before buying this set up. Thanks for your help.
Last edited by usmcpony; 03-17-2009 at 01:21 AM.
03-17-2009, 11:58 PM
#7
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Near Wash. DC Posts: 13,541
Posts: 2,497
I have a couple of press releases which describe the suspension setup I mentioned.
I can actually probably still get you a good discount on it. If you want you can feel free to PM me, I used to work with Saleen and still do. I've had 3 completly different suspensions on my vehicle and I know of nothing that is better at the entry level. New tires are also part of the equation.
Mike you're right in that it's a special handeling car due to lots of downforce and it's open wheel.
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