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How to remove/reinstall the alternator?

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Old 04-15-2009, 07:14 PM   #1
gburke1
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Default How to remove/reinstall the alternator?

I threw a P0340 code (Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit
Malfunction), and read a ton of threads saying this code was caused by the alternator creating RF interference.

I went to O'Reilly Auto Parts and they tested the alternator, and came up with a bad diode. I also got a second opinion from Ford and they said the output was low. The car has also had some idling issues and surging issues.


I found a place locally where I can have the alternator rebuilt (I had another 2006 Mustang GT, where the alternator went out 3 different times, so I don't want to keep replacing it... unless it's cost effective with a good warranty)

The only problem is they need the alternator taken out of the car first, since all they do is rebuild alternators they will not take it out of the car for me.

Does anyone know where I can find a guide or instructions to do this?
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:39 PM   #2
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Here you go. Apparently the alternator is not an alternator and is, instead, a generator? Or at least is referred to as such in the shop manuals. Anyway, that should have everything you need to know.
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:51 AM   #3
gburke1
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Thanks!
Not sure if I will be able to do it but at least gives me an idea of how much I should pay someone to do it.
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12.647 @ 110.1 MPH w/ 1.993 60' - Mods: (Novi 2200, FRPP 3v Intake Manifold, Kooks LT Headers, Kooks Catted X-Pipe, Pypes Mid
Muffler System, Spohn LCA's, 18" Contintenal ExtremeContact DWS All Seasons)

13.082 @ 105.05 MPH w/ 1.969 60' on Stock P-Zero All Season 17s (CAI, Full Exhaust, only)

Show: 18" Black Saleen Replicas, Trufiber GTS III Hood, California Special Front Bumper
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:23 AM   #4
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Honestly, swapping an alternator is just about the easiest mechanical work there is under the hood. (At least on a RWD car. Some of the FWD setups are almost impossible to get to.) You should be able to have that out in less than 10 minutes with a ratchet and a couple sockets.
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:27 AM   #5
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its not hard at all. use a breaker bar or 1/2" driver to loosen the tensioner pulley. Remove the two bolts on top of the alternator bracket, then the two on the bottom should loosen slightly. No need to remove the bottom bolts cos the alternator just sits on top of those bolts. Loosen the red power cable and small sensor wires. Finally, sit back and enjoy a beer...you just removed your alternator. reverse the steps for install (use some Red Loctite to secure the bolts)
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:42 AM   #6
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duuuuuude i have had the same problem and never got an answer on here and never figured out the problem and still have it to this day, i dont get that code very often anymore but it still happens randomly. looks like im going to oreilly to get it tested!
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:48 AM   #7
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What do they do when they "rebuild" these devices? I've heard that often times it's just the brushes.
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:54 AM   #8
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Remove the NEGATIVE cable first from the battery and reconnect it LAST when done.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=370
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Old 04-16-2009, 11:43 AM   #9
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I changed my alt just like a month ago. Took like 30 minutes and I didnt even need instructions, it was very straight forward. All I did was removed the intake tube and the throttle body. Took off the belt and loosened the bolts holding on the alts mounting bracket. After that took the alt off the bracket and disconnected the power cable. Then reversed it to put the new one back on and fired it up. Was surprised how easy it was but then i remembered its a ford!
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Old 01-09-2012, 05:46 PM   #10
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Default 6-groove serpentine or clutch pulley?

Look, I have a 2006 Mustang GT ALL stock. My alternator crapped out on me yesterday, and I'm going to replace it myself. Problem is that when i put it in my shopping cart on paperformance.com, it requires me to check a bubble that says 6-groove serpentine or clutch pulley. What the heck do I choose? The clutch pulley adds $40 or so... the 6-groove serp is at no additional cost.

I'm leaning towards free, but don't want to screw up my order. any words of wisdom out there?
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Old 01-09-2012, 06:08 PM   #11
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Invest in a Haynes manual...It'll help you out more than you'd think
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Old 01-09-2012, 07:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangepegs View Post
Look, I have a 2006 Mustang GT ALL stock. My alternator crapped out on me yesterday, and I'm going to replace it myself. Problem is that when i put it in my shopping cart on paperformance.com, it requires me to check a bubble that says 6-groove serpentine or clutch pulley. What the heck do I choose? The clutch pulley adds $40 or so... the 6-groove serp is at no additional cost.

I'm leaning towards free, but don't want to screw up my order. any words of wisdom out there?
You have a 6-rib clutch pulley on the stock alternator. It's there to prevent belt chirp during shifts on some cars. You don't have to have it; if you look at all of us who've 'upgraded' their alternators, very few are using the clutch.
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:37 PM   #13
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I second that as one of the easiest repairs. My wife needed a new one when she was driving a 99 gt years ago. Her father would have done it but was recovering from a hernia operation at the time. With his direction she was able to do it. She must have done a good job since it never gave her problems again. She can do this but claims to be unable to change a tire or wiper blades.
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:05 AM   #14
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Whoa, randomly checked out the forum and see one of my threads from forever ago resurrected!

Well I will tell you the cheapest place to get an alternator. eBay. I managed to pick one up for $50 on there and it had a 1 year warranty. Still hasn't crapped out. The price may vary though... I was lucky to find mine at that price.

Here is one for $104.87 shipped (there was a cheaper used one but would not recommend a used alternator unless it had the warranty like mine):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mustang-GT-2...item53e65a223c
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12.647 @ 110.1 MPH w/ 1.993 60' - Mods: (Novi 2200, FRPP 3v Intake Manifold, Kooks LT Headers, Kooks Catted X-Pipe, Pypes Mid
Muffler System, Spohn LCA's, 18" Contintenal ExtremeContact DWS All Seasons)

13.082 @ 105.05 MPH w/ 1.969 60' on Stock P-Zero All Season 17s (CAI, Full Exhaust, only)

Show: 18" Black Saleen Replicas, Trufiber GTS III Hood, California Special Front Bumper

Last edited by gburke1; 01-10-2012 at 04:10 AM.
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Old 01-10-2012, 09:37 AM   #15
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Default high amp?

I found a 240 amp alternator with a year warranty on ebay, but does it benefit me to have the extra amps? My mustang gt is all stock with the shaker 500. Only aftermarket stuff are the valve caps on my tires, and I don't think that warrants additional amps... does it hurt me to have the extra amps?
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:20 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangepegs View Post
I found a 240 amp alternator with a year warranty on ebay, but does it benefit me to have the extra amps? My mustang gt is all stock with the shaker 500. Only aftermarket stuff are the valve caps on my tires, and I don't think that warrants additional amps... does it hurt me to have the extra amps?
Not sure to be honest
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12.647 @ 110.1 MPH w/ 1.993 60' - Mods: (Novi 2200, FRPP 3v Intake Manifold, Kooks LT Headers, Kooks Catted X-Pipe, Pypes Mid
Muffler System, Spohn LCA's, 18" Contintenal ExtremeContact DWS All Seasons)

13.082 @ 105.05 MPH w/ 1.969 60' on Stock P-Zero All Season 17s (CAI, Full Exhaust, only)

Show: 18" Black Saleen Replicas, Trufiber GTS III Hood, California Special Front Bumper
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:32 AM   #17
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Hey guys, first time poster. Last night, while I was driving the car wanted to practically shut off and my radio/lights/fogs shut completely off. Was able to get it home, and tried jumping it, and as soon as I let it run for a good 30 mins and shut the car off, it wouldn't turn back on. Gonna buy a new battery today-I know I should get a batt that gives 500-600 cold cranking power, but my local auto store has one that gives off 650, that'll be fine right? Keep in mind, I have a stock '06 convert GT. Thanks =]
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:32 AM
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