Headers
#16
im putting my JBA's tonight into tomorrow. ill post a slight write up as well. also im adding magnaflow x pipe w/cats.
jahudso2 how did you get the steering linkage apart. after moving the P/S rack did you take the link out that is under the hood or the entire thing under the dash?
jahudso2 how did you get the steering linkage apart. after moving the P/S rack did you take the link out that is under the hood or the entire thing under the dash?
#17
The easiest way to remove the steering shaft is to first take out the 13mm shiny bolt on the bottom of the steering shaft on the most upper part of the knuckle. There are two bolts on the little knuckle joints, one is all the way on the bottom near the rack and the other is shiny and up closer to the actual shaft. Only remove the shiny upper one. Then take painters tape and mark the knuckle and steering shaft so you know which way it goes back in. then take a 15 mm socket with the biggest handle you can find and try to loosen the passenger side steering rack bolt. Just loosen it enough so that you can turn it somewhat easily with the socket wrench, but DO NOT remove the whole bolt. Then go to the drivers side steering rack bolt. Remove this one totally and then you can push the steering rack towards the front bumper rather easily. Just push it 1-2 inches and then you will be able to push the steering shaft back up towards the steering wheel and move it out of the way. DO NOT spin the shaft! I set the shaft up near the front left wheel well so it was out of the way. Before you put the motor mount back on the vehicle, swing the steering shaft back down and place back in the rack. I did not do this and after i tightened down my motor mounts, i found that I didnt have enough clearance between the header and the body to get the steering shaft back to the rack. Hope this helps and I'll try to do my writeup tomorrow sometime. Good luck and make sure you soak every bolt (especially the stock header studs) in a lot of penetrating oil before you start. Removing a stuck header stud takes a ton of time.
#18
If you have a lift at your disposal, go for it. Just dont expect it to be a cake walk. You WILL be cussing when it comes time to tighten the lower bolts. Getting the factory logs out, and putting the shorties in, only requires lifting the engine for the passenger side if they are tuned length headers, like BBK. An 11mm ratcheting wrench, will cut down your cussing for tightening the bolts. An 18-24" extension, and swivel makes the top starter bolt a breeze. Also, loosening the a/c compressor and pushing it forward gives you access to tightening the lower bolts on the passenger side.
For the steering shaft, its easier to remove ONE bolt, at the u-joint, then removing the two 10mm bolts on the interior and pulling it up an inch. And, of course, dont let the wheel turn.
Count on it taking a big part of your day.
For the steering shaft, its easier to remove ONE bolt, at the u-joint, then removing the two 10mm bolts on the interior and pulling it up an inch. And, of course, dont let the wheel turn.
Count on it taking a big part of your day.
#19
ok thanks guys. steering shaft removal and moving the rack was cake. i though it was going to be much more involved. i quit for the night cuz i broke the threads getting the 02 sensor off of the stock header. i def need a new one lol the JBA header does not fit unless i take out the steering link completely as well as the MM. i took the link out tomorrow i will tackle the MM and then finsih up the driver side and then tackle the pass. side.
PS penetrating oil is like a hot knife through butter! i love this stuff. i went through a can just prepping the past few days.
PS penetrating oil is like a hot knife through butter! i love this stuff. i went through a can just prepping the past few days.
#20
i also have all 4 tires on ramps with 2X4's and 1 inch plywood as the ramps base. lots of room to work. the only lesson i have learned thus far is.... i didnt remeber to roll my windows down prioir to taking the battery out. =(
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