VistaGT

Hey guys,

It's time for new brakes on my car so I ordered front+rear HPS pads. Couple of questions.

1. Is there a write-up on changing the pads?-I thought I saw one a while back but couldn't find it. I have the haynes manual but it's vague and I want to do this to the T.

2. Is it necessary to get the rotors finished on a brake lathe? If it is I'm guessing you get that done with the rotors on the car, at which point wouldnt it be easier to have the shop just do the pad change?

3. I know a C-clamp can be used for the front, but do the rear calipers require a tool? My manual says you can use the tool or a pair of pliers. Is it better to just buy and use the tool?

Thanks a lot!

timothyrw

1. i don't think there is a be-all end-all start-to-finish w/pics thread. not sure how this is, after all these years...

https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...rake-pads.html

https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...rake-pads.html

2. i have heard people say you can get your rotors turned by bringing them into a shop. i've also heard this is not necessarily necessary.

3. those who do it often have highly recommended get a brake caliper tool for the rears.

i've got my caliper tool and hps brake pads waiting to be installed. i am just waiting for my oem pads to wear down. i'm cheap like that and i don't drive my car much. maybe i'll do that be-all end-all thread...

jahudso2

Yes, the rears require a special tool. Harbor freight has it for 25 bucks and it comes in a red box. It is also easier to use that for the front brakes than a c-clamp.

Step 1 - jack up the car and take a wheel off.

Step 2 - remove 2 caliper bracket mounting bolts (12mm)

Step 3 - use string or a bucket to suspend the caliper so that it is not hanging from the brake line

Step 4 - take old pads out of the bracket

Step 5 - place anti squeal on back of hps pads and then insert them into the bracket

Step 6 - put caliper back on and tighten 2 mounting bolts

Step 7 - put wheel back on

Step 8 - do other 3 wheels

Step 9 - bed the pads as instructed on the hps box by braking from 35mph or whatever it was.

jahudso2

oh yeah before you put the caliper back on to the new pads is when you have to compress the cylinders back into the caliper using the special tool. if you dont do this, the caliper wont fit over the new pads b/c they are thicker than the older worn ones.

Smooth_J

I picked up the set to compress the calibers from Habor Freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732

I used it once or twice and found it to be handy.

VistaGT

Okay cool. What do you guys think about getting the rotors done or w/e it's called?

digitalcos

Depends on the condition of the rotors. Check both braking surfaces on each rotor, if the surface is still smooth, you're good to go. If it's got ridges like a vinyl record replace them. I guess some people still get them turned (machined), but I've heard it's better to just go ahead and replace them.

Definitely get the Harbor Freight tool. They sell a little cube tool at auto parts stores; don't waste your time and money; it's useless.

Texotic

Just go to AutoZone, O'Reilly's, or whatever is close by and rent the caliper tool, return it when your done for free.

ffk_pennywise

You dont need any crazy tools to compress the caliper pistons, just use a big-*** pair of channel locks. Works fine.

Chris07GT

yeah, but there is something nice about buying a new tool. Makes me all warm and fuzzy inside!