Shelby Kicker System enroute to my house!
04-13-2012, 03:06 PM
#281
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: MN
Posts: 20
Okay,
That Alpine 500 watt mono is looking like a winner, only $200 and comes with a speaker level harness, and if I am reading the specs right, it will do 300 watts to both 8" subs or 150 each.
And that should be much better power than the stock amps. Adjust the gain correctly so its not overpowering and BAM!
And again, for those of you out there that got the Kicker KS680 6x8s, the Pioneers are WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY better sounding in the stang, it is a night and day difference. I glady trashed the Kickers after getting the Pioneers installed!
That Alpine 500 watt mono is looking like a winner, only $200 and comes with a speaker level harness, and if I am reading the specs right, it will do 300 watts to both 8" subs or 150 each.
And that should be much better power than the stock amps. Adjust the gain correctly so its not overpowering and BAM!
And again, for those of you out there that got the Kicker KS680 6x8s, the Pioneers are WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY better sounding in the stang, it is a night and day difference. I glady trashed the Kickers after getting the Pioneers installed!
04-14-2012, 07:54 PM
#285
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: MN
Posts: 20
Alpine MRP-M500;
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPM....html?tp=35834
Alpine MRX-M50;
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRXM....html?tp=35834
Kicker 10DX500.1 ( rated to 1 ohm);
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DX50....html?tp=35834
All are only $200, the last 2 are sale priced at $200.
Or, go out on a limb and get this real nice Alpine PDX-V9 5 channel amp for $699 and remove the Shelby Kicker 4.1 amp/DSP that I have and use the 5 channel to run everything (and sell the S/K 4.1)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PDXV....html?tp=35808
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPM....html?tp=35834
Alpine MRX-M50;
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRXM....html?tp=35834
Kicker 10DX500.1 ( rated to 1 ohm);
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DX50....html?tp=35834
All are only $200, the last 2 are sale priced at $200.
Or, go out on a limb and get this real nice Alpine PDX-V9 5 channel amp for $699 and remove the Shelby Kicker 4.1 amp/DSP that I have and use the 5 channel to run everything (and sell the S/K 4.1)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PDXV....html?tp=35808
04-15-2012, 01:44 AM
#286
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Tampa
Posts: 4,204
I am not a mobile audio expert. But from what I understand about it. You will most likely be in the 2ohm range at the amp since the speakers I believe are 4ohm speakers.
So the Kicker running at 2ohms is worse than the Alpines running at 2ohms.
If the Kicker subs are rated at 2 ohms, then you could step the kicker down to 1 ohm and all the amps would be on par with each other. Just gonna be personal preference and whatever reviews you can find.
If you want to run the entire car off of one amp, then of course the $700 alpine will push it.
If you just want to run the subs, then either of the Alpines would do it for you. I'd just read some reviews. I got a lot better deal on the MRP-M500. But the MRX series wasn't release at that time.
As for wiring it.
This is how I would wire it... http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...4-ohm_mono.jpg
if you want more diagrams you can get them here...
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-rPYo7Ya...rs_wiring.html
So the Kicker running at 2ohms is worse than the Alpines running at 2ohms.
If the Kicker subs are rated at 2 ohms, then you could step the kicker down to 1 ohm and all the amps would be on par with each other. Just gonna be personal preference and whatever reviews you can find.
If you want to run the entire car off of one amp, then of course the $700 alpine will push it.
If you just want to run the subs, then either of the Alpines would do it for you. I'd just read some reviews. I got a lot better deal on the MRP-M500. But the MRX series wasn't release at that time.
As for wiring it.
This is how I would wire it... http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...4-ohm_mono.jpg
if you want more diagrams you can get them here...
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-rPYo7Ya...rs_wiring.html
08-30-2021, 09:34 PM
#287
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: FL
Posts: 1
Upgrading shaker 500 to shaker 1000 from eBay
My car came with the Shaker 500.
I bought a Shaker 1000 trunk sub box on Ebay over a year ago and posted up a thread on how I installed it, along with an aftermarket head unit.
I have been very happy with it...it sounds good and hits hard.
I am one of these guys who mods his mods...so I got to thinking that the factory subs are probably Chinese built paper with little tiny magnets...and of course they are powered by factory amps, so I figured perhaps an upgrade might be in order.
After upgrading my front door speakers and seeing the lousy OEM quality Ford had put in there, along with the paper cones and featherweight magnet 8 inch door speakers, I figured the trunk subs would be more of the same.
Kicker sub on left; crap OEM door sub on right:
In order for me to choose some good drivers, I needed to know the impedance of the subs, and I also wanted to know the mounting depth, since I want to keep the factory look of the Shaker 1000 sub box.
So today I did an exploratory surgery...I was, quite honestly, shocked by the results. Instead of finding junk, I was pleasantly surprised!
They are indeed Chinese...but beyond that point, they are BEEFY. The magnets are a double-stack arrangement...they are very heavy. I didn't put them on as scale, but they are as beefy as any aftermarket sub uses save for super-high end competition stuff.
They are not paper, but rather are polypropylene or equivalent...the spiders are "normal" looking and very durable to the touch, and they have a giant vented pole-piece complete with a screen.
Each sub has dual 4 Ohm voice coils. I put an ohm-meter to them to confirm...all four were between 3.9 and 4.1 (meter jumped slightly in that range) with 4.0 being displayed most of the time. They are labeled as 4.6 Ohm, but my multimeter says 4.0:
Pics:
Mounting depth is precisely 5 inches (that is to the back of the magnet) but there is an additional strap-bridge that secures the back end of the magnet to the back of the sub box - the strap bridge is an additional inch tall:
Inside the sub box, there is a dividing baffle between the two subs, but it is very weak (not very rigid) and it can be flexxed with the hand. The rest of the sub box (outer shell) is very thick, stout, and hard to flex. There is custom shaped polyester fiberfill looking material to aid in damping inside the box on both sides of the baffle:
Vented pole-piece:
Spider:
There isn't jack-sprat on the internet about this setup, so let me share some more.
Each voice coil on these subs is powered by its very own dedicated factory amp. That means there are FOUR amps in the trunk mounted to the steel plate that is installed into the trunk...In this pic, you can only see two of them:
There are two more identical amps on the other side of that bracket. Notice those amps are easily twice as big as the ones in the front above the driver's side kick panel (the ones that power the Shaker 500 door speakers).
Here is what the amp rack looks like removed from the car:
I bought a Shaker 1000 trunk sub box on Ebay over a year ago and posted up a thread on how I installed it, along with an aftermarket head unit.
I have been very happy with it...it sounds good and hits hard.
I am one of these guys who mods his mods...so I got to thinking that the factory subs are probably Chinese built paper with little tiny magnets...and of course they are powered by factory amps, so I figured perhaps an upgrade might be in order.
After upgrading my front door speakers and seeing the lousy OEM quality Ford had put in there, along with the paper cones and featherweight magnet 8 inch door speakers, I figured the trunk subs would be more of the same.
Kicker sub on left; crap OEM door sub on right:
In order for me to choose some good drivers, I needed to know the impedance of the subs, and I also wanted to know the mounting depth, since I want to keep the factory look of the Shaker 1000 sub box.
So today I did an exploratory surgery...I was, quite honestly, shocked by the results. Instead of finding junk, I was pleasantly surprised!
They are indeed Chinese...but beyond that point, they are BEEFY. The magnets are a double-stack arrangement...they are very heavy. I didn't put them on as scale, but they are as beefy as any aftermarket sub uses save for super-high end competition stuff.
They are not paper, but rather are polypropylene or equivalent...the spiders are "normal" looking and very durable to the touch, and they have a giant vented pole-piece complete with a screen.
Each sub has dual 4 Ohm voice coils. I put an ohm-meter to them to confirm...all four were between 3.9 and 4.1 (meter jumped slightly in that range) with 4.0 being displayed most of the time. They are labeled as 4.6 Ohm, but my multimeter says 4.0:
Pics:
Mounting depth is precisely 5 inches (that is to the back of the magnet) but there is an additional strap-bridge that secures the back end of the magnet to the back of the sub box - the strap bridge is an additional inch tall:
Inside the sub box, there is a dividing baffle between the two subs, but it is very weak (not very rigid) and it can be flexxed with the hand. The rest of the sub box (outer shell) is very thick, stout, and hard to flex. There is custom shaped polyester fiberfill looking material to aid in damping inside the box on both sides of the baffle:
Vented pole-piece:
Spider:
There isn't jack-sprat on the internet about this setup, so let me share some more.
Each voice coil on these subs is powered by its very own dedicated factory amp. That means there are FOUR amps in the trunk mounted to the steel plate that is installed into the trunk...In this pic, you can only see two of them:
There are two more identical amps on the other side of that bracket. Notice those amps are easily twice as big as the ones in the front above the driver's side kick panel (the ones that power the Shaker 500 door speakers).
Here is what the amp rack looks like removed from the car:
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jwog666
Pipes, Boost & Juice
11
12-27-2021 08:09 PM
mungodrums
S550 2015-2023 Mustang
10
09-28-2015 10:54 PM
nmra1965
Other Professional Racing
0
09-26-2015 10:46 AM
tj@steeda
Steeda Autosports
0
09-24-2015 09:18 PM
