clear my airbag light pleeeeeease
#11
I could almost live with the light myself but would like to know if the rest of the restraint system still operates when the light is on though.....
#12
The SCT - Xcalibrator which I got from the tuner. That doesn't see the body codes.
Some generic scanner I bought, by coincidence, last week. It also can't see the extended body codes. There is no mention of Can-Bus on the new one's box though... I'll flip through the handbook (Horror)
#13
k thanks to clear that out.i really dont mind the rest since im planning to install a racing steering wheel after the seats.as long as the passenger air bag works im ok.let me know if you find some more info on it.i just picked up the seats but they need some work.
#14
Now, even though Ford sold me the [wrong] terminator plugs, they now have officially told me that "Ford does not condone the modification of their vehicles with aftermarket parts and will not lend any support to problems incurred thereafter".
Well, I understand what the core message is and that's fair enough, I wouldn't expect them to troubleshoot my supercharger, but to not support something which they sell (terminator plugs designed to do a specific job) is retarded.
What's actually happended is that there's a hiccup in the parts catalogue and they sold me the wrong items. No biggy, just fix it !!
So no change in my viewpoint of Ford, they could chew the bark off my hairy log before and they can continue to chew it now.
I stripped the terminators and see they are just a resistor, so I replaced the resistors with 1.5ohm items and now need to have the codes cleared.
The drag is, unless I can find a collision shop with a decent code reader I have to go back to have that done. Well, in fairness, my stealership is pretty good, it's just a shame they have to bow to Ford dictatorship.
#15
thanks for explaining.what i have found out from other cars is every airbag has its own computer incase one fails the rest wont.so if the mustang is the same way and i disconnect the seats my steering and passenger should still work.dont quote me on this though.like i said if is just a light thats gonna com on,then ill worry about it when im gonna trade it in if i do.
#16
I just did a seat swap from my cloth in my 08 to some leather from an 06. I had to bring the little "modules" that all the wiring plugged into over from my cloth to the leather. This included drilling out the rivets and transferring modules. I had the same problem with the airbag light, it wouldnt go off. So in your case maybe you can just grab the "modules" from under your seats drill em out and plug them in so the system will be happy.
#17
Have you done the RCM recall programming update yet?
That could update it and clear the codes all in one free trip to the dealership.
I cannot see the RCM seeing a difference inbetween 1.5 ohms and 7 ohms.
Thats like trying to taste the difference inbetween one grain of sugar and
7 grains of sugar in a gallon of unsweetened tea.
If the air bags were disconnected while the RCM was powered up, you are
screwed until Ford fixes it, if they even will.....
That could update it and clear the codes all in one free trip to the dealership.
I cannot see the RCM seeing a difference inbetween 1.5 ohms and 7 ohms.
Thats like trying to taste the difference inbetween one grain of sugar and
7 grains of sugar in a gallon of unsweetened tea.
If the air bags were disconnected while the RCM was powered up, you are
screwed until Ford fixes it, if they even will.....
#18
I just did a seat swap from my cloth in my 08 to some leather from an 06. I had to bring the little "modules" that all the wiring plugged into over from my cloth to the leather. This included drilling out the rivets and transferring modules. I had the same problem with the airbag light, it wouldnt go off. So in your case maybe you can just grab the "modules" from under your seats drill em out and plug them in so the system will be happy.
OK, I may as well recount the whole process.
Disconnect the battery and leave for 30 minutes plus. Ford workshop manual says 2 minutes but longer is better....................
Passenger side
Remove the whole harness from the stock seat and leave it under the new seat plugged into the car.
The OCS Module is riveted into the seat frame so you'll have to drill out the 2 rivets and remove this module. The passenger pressure sensing bladder has to come out of the seat and to do that you'll have to release the 3 squab springs to slip it out. It's fiddly but easy, just be careful. It's a big thing and probably delicate so be careful.
Don't forget the seat belt receiver, if you plan to use a different one or 4/5 point harnesses, you'll need to have the stock seat belt receiver on the floor too.
The airbag tail will need one of the terminators on it to keep the circuit closed.
I tie wrapped the cables together and put them into a small black fabric bag I had and laid them under the new seat. Tidy and no bare wires visible. The bladder lays flat on the floor under the seat.
Drivers side
Remove the whole harness from the stock seat and leave it under the new seat plugged into the car.
Don't forget the seat belt receiver, if you plan to use a different one or 4/5 point harnesses, you'll need to have the stock seat belt receiver on the floor too.
The airbag tail will need one of the terminators on it to keep the circuit closed.
On the drivers side there is a seat position sensor that needs to be removed from the frame (one bolt) and plugged into the harness.
I tie wrapped the cables together and put them into a small black fabric bag I had and laid them under the new seat. Tidy and no bare wires visible.
Reconnect battery
Electronics
You might get away with having a happy OBD but chances are you'll still get a code thrown at you [probably]. This will most likely be the bladder sensing a significant change in 'ambient' pressure. This is because the bladder, whilst in the seat, is already being squashed hard by the spring tension. Removing the bladder will freak the system out and you'll have to have the pressure sensor zero'ed.
if you have airbag codes also, then chances are the delete plugs you got are the wrong ones.. That's where I am/was.
Last edited by marcuskeeler; 06-18-2009 at 10:40 PM.
#19
His are 1.5 ohms, mine are 7 ohms. I consider that to be pretty definitive.
We are talking about the resistance of a simple coil, it's never going to be anything other than 'almost zero' and that's what the RCM is looking for. Anything even slightly higher could mean a dodgy connector, the onset of corrosion or the beginnings of a breakdown of the firing coil itself.
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