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Old 06-03-2010, 03:53 PM   #21
JBALLOY08GT
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When I changed mine they came out nice and easy not sure when my car was built but I was worried because I heard alot about them breaking.
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Old 08-23-2010, 01:21 AM   #22
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Changed my 2005 gt with the Champion 7989. I had 35,000 miles and used some PB (penetrating blaster) soak for 15 mins with a 1/8 turn on them and the plugs changed with no problem. My car flew on the test drive. I am digging the Champion plugs. Hated the 15.49 a piece I had to pay for them. I know there 12.95 online but I want to change them today. More test driving tomorrow.
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Old 08-23-2010, 10:33 AM   #23
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I think mine are stuck in there. I pulled them at 12K miles and put anti-seize on the ground shield. But I also put some on the threads which I found out to be a no-no later on. Now when I try to turn them to get them out they don't seem to wanna budge. I didn't want to force it so I gave up for now. Guess we'll see what happens when I'm actually forced to remove them. Could be bad.

I don't get how they could be in there so damn good with all that anti-seize on there. Only thing I can think is that they were over-torqued when I put them back in last time.
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:20 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by replica View Post
There are two heads. They are marked on the driver's side valve cover with a giant white sticker with a bunch of numbers and the letters "AA" or "AB". I think the AA's are the two piece **** design, and the AB's are the revised. My 08 was build in mid 2007 and has the AA heads.
Necromancy! Thanks for the info. Just went out to verify mine. I get zee crappy 2 piece. Build date of 7/07 for my 08, so not shocking, but still, meh. But at least I know.

Looked previously for the "black" COP coloring, but this verifies it.

This is also easily found on the 2 driver's side door stickers(circled in below picture, it obviously being my own with the "AA" code and VINs blurred out):
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:06 PM   #25
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Changed 'em today with autolite HT0's. All eight came out fine after some research, I just over-tightened slightly, then less than a quarter turn out for each, PB blasted, waited 10mins, not a 1 broke.

Got the tool just in case though from amazon. 63.5k on the car, and yeah, they looked like absolute crap. Surprised they still worked ok to be frank, most of the electrode was gone on all of them. Completely coated on the ground shields with carbon build-up. Glad that's done.

Friend and I, (on the forums here as well) did ours at the same time, which came in handy since we both "hur-der'ed" and forgot to get a 10' or better extension, and didn't have a 15mm Plug socket.

I did however, bust one of the stupid little molded in retainer clips for the injector connector putting it back on, so if you disconnect them to get them out of the way, be cautious putting back on, very cheap molded plastic.

Working great from what I can tell, even at the factory gap of .045..

How to change spark plugs in a mustang - YouTube
Just ignore the part about putting anti-sieze on the threads..
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Last edited by wayne613; 04-28-2012 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 04-28-2012, 07:56 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustangmaster View Post
Doesn't GoldenPony have a 2006? My engine was built December 2007 so I guess I'm in the danger zone.
Right. My car is a 2006.
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Old 04-28-2012, 07:56 PM
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05, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, broke, broken, f150, gt, head, mustang, plug, plugs, replacing, spark, sparks

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