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Old 09-30-2009, 10:00 AM   #31
scooter3
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Funny I just threw one on my truck last night, because it sits for weeks without being driven. I have the Battery Tender Jr. so we will see how well it works. Checked it out when I got home this morning the the indicator light is still red so apparently it is still charging. I am curious to see how long before the green charge light comes on. I have heard nothing but good things about them.
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Old 09-30-2009, 10:05 AM   #32
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Funny I just threw one on my truck last night, because it sits for weeks without being driven. I have the Battery Tender Jr. so we will see how well it works. Checked it out when I got home this morning the the indicator light is still red so apparently it is still charging. I am curious to see how long before the green charge light comes on. I have heard nothing but good things about them.
When I first got mine hooked up it was right after my battery had been drained from sitting. It took quite some time to change from red to green, maybe even a day or two if I remember correctly. If it's hooked up correctly and you are not getting the blinking red then give it some time, should go green soon.
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Old 09-30-2009, 04:00 PM   #33
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Well, db157, are you letting everything wind down for at least 40 minutes before you take the current reading? I could believe a reading of 1.5 amps before everything goes to sleep, but not for a long period of time.

The workshop manual says no more than 50 milliamperes of parasitic draw. The dealer tested mine, and reported that my car draws 40 milliamperes. There is a TSB that says typical is 20-30 milliamperes.

If you have a 60 Ah battery, and a parasitic draw of 1.5 amps, then wouldn't the battery would be stone cold dead in 40 hours if the car were parked?

Are you doing the test as specified on page 414-00-16 of the 2007 workshop manual?
Oh yea, waiting the proper time
Have printed workshop manual and follow it like the bible.
These S197s take special procedure to test things
unlike vehicles of yesteryear.
I let the stang sit for the proper time.
I observed the draw and battery voltage for more than 24 hours
to collect data for my custom charger logic/voltage setpoints.
I have the charge leads and seperate voltage sense leads
for the control circuitry unlike the 'battery tenders' who can
only guess battery voltage over the same two wires carring
the charging current. Bad design.

If and when my alternator looses a diode or two, I will have to
get Oscope pics of what that looks like as well.
Internal diagnosis of the alternator on the vehicle....
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:15 PM   #34
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I just purchased a Battery Tender Plus for use on my car over the winter storage months. I will be leaving the battery connected and in the car through this time. Could someone please tell me which post of the battery is grounded so I can properly hook up the tender (1 clamp to battery post, one clamp to chassis). I tired looking for an answer but couldnt find what I was looking for. Thanks!
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:19 PM   #35
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... Could someone please tell me which post of the battery is grounded so I can properly hook up the tender (1 clamp to battery post, one clamp to chassis). I tired looking for an answer but couldnt find what I was looking for. Thanks!
Really???

The Battery Tender comes with alligator clamps plus ring lugs; the latter for direct, permanent connection to the battery. If you're not using the latter, then just go ahead and use the alligator clamps on the battery terminals. And black is negative, red is positive. If you're color blind, ask for help.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:06 PM   #36
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Thanks for the clarification there. The instructions for the tender were a little confusing when explaining the difference between charging with the battery in the vehicle and when you pull it to charge. Just wanted to make sure before I went and fubar'd something up. It sure is easier to ask a stupid question than have to make a stupid repair. All is well now though!
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:15 PM   #37
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So Nuke... Do you still need a tender?
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:25 AM   #38
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What is this 1.3 to 1.5 amps of parasitic draw you keep posting time after time after time? The parasitic draw should not exceed 50 milliamperes.
This is when the sheitter 500 goes berserk
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:25 AM
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