suspension is riding crappy! caster/camber?
#1
suspension is riding crappy! caster/camber?
Alright guys I am in need of help. I lowered my car with eibach pro-kit about 1 year ago. At that time, I added camber bolts before my alignment and it had been riding fine for 1 year. I recently noticed that the inside of my 2 front tires was getting worn out. I though maybe somehow the camber bolts were out of spec and I took it for a realignment. The guy said that the bolts weren’t going to be enough and I needed aftermarket caster / camber plates. He aligned my car to the “best” that they could , but it is worst than before I went in for the alignment. My car is running like **** and I just want it to be RIGHT, like it was before the drop.
Do I need caster camber plates? I looked at JM and MM, but for $100 I think JM is better for me (im broke).
How difficult is the install? Have to remove the struts? I have very limited suspension knowledge.
Thanks for all feedback.
Do I need caster camber plates? I looked at JM and MM, but for $100 I think JM is better for me (im broke).
How difficult is the install? Have to remove the struts? I have very limited suspension knowledge.
Thanks for all feedback.
#2
what does "riding like ****" mean? Stiff? Bouncy? Just the tire wear issue?
The CC plates would help with tire wear, but if you are wearing the inside of the tire, it sounds like you have too much camber (tires leaning in too much), so you certainly shouldn't need any more.
I am running a 1.25" drop (on 20s) without camber bolts or anything, and it is just fine.
If you car really is riding poorly, it probably has much more to do with the shocks/struts than the alignment. But, if it is the just the tire wear, it sounds like you just need to get a little less camber to even out the wear (and find a better shop to do the alignment).
The CC plates would help with tire wear, but if you are wearing the inside of the tire, it sounds like you have too much camber (tires leaning in too much), so you certainly shouldn't need any more.
I am running a 1.25" drop (on 20s) without camber bolts or anything, and it is just fine.
If you car really is riding poorly, it probably has much more to do with the shocks/struts than the alignment. But, if it is the just the tire wear, it sounds like you just need to get a little less camber to even out the wear (and find a better shop to do the alignment).
#3
Well the car is pulling much more to the right than before, and it is shakier going 60-70mph . The steering wheel seems off because i have to have it turned just to go straight! i just want normal tire wear .I have negative camber right now , so my wheels are toed in, causing the inner tire to wear out.
#4
the inner wear means you still have too much camber. The bolts might not be adjusted enough.
How much are you lowered? Bolts will only support so much drop, then you have to go plates.
You can check the camber yourself to get a rough estimate, but it sounds like you already have issues.
Could also be a toe alignment issue, since your steering is off.
Ever get to central texas? I'd be happy to help you out.
How much are you lowered? Bolts will only support so much drop, then you have to go plates.
You can check the camber yourself to get a rough estimate, but it sounds like you already have issues.
Could also be a toe alignment issue, since your steering is off.
Ever get to central texas? I'd be happy to help you out.
#5
#6
whoever did your alignment seems suspect to me.
camber bolts will have no affect on the cars ability to drive in a straight line. Since you are experiencing a pull to the right...especially after the shop has seen it, i think you need a different shop.
why the hell would you be running even more negative camber?
camber bolts will have no affect on the cars ability to drive in a straight line. Since you are experiencing a pull to the right...especially after the shop has seen it, i think you need a different shop.
why the hell would you be running even more negative camber?
#7
J&M makes some affordable plates that allow 1.8 degrees of adjustment. http://www.hotpart.com/shop/index.ph...ct_detail&p=64
I run steeda hd plates that allow 1 degree and with them fully pulled out still have a bit of negative camber with 1.2'' drop steeda comp springs. It's just the amount I want for minimum tire wear and maximum handling though so not a problem to me.
With the pro-kit, steeda hd plates won't allow enough range but the J&M's will. That will solve your camber problem but the vibration and other issues sound like toe. Take a tape measure and measure the leading edges and following edges of your front tires near the ground using a groove in the tire as the measurement point. The leading and following edges should be near the same measurement. If not, your toe is off and that can cause the problems your mentioning.
I run steeda hd plates that allow 1 degree and with them fully pulled out still have a bit of negative camber with 1.2'' drop steeda comp springs. It's just the amount I want for minimum tire wear and maximum handling though so not a problem to me.
With the pro-kit, steeda hd plates won't allow enough range but the J&M's will. That will solve your camber problem but the vibration and other issues sound like toe. Take a tape measure and measure the leading edges and following edges of your front tires near the ground using a groove in the tire as the measurement point. The leading and following edges should be near the same measurement. If not, your toe is off and that can cause the problems your mentioning.
#8
Here's how to check toe. I'm learning how to adjust toe, camber, and bumpsteer at home using MM gauges and alignment kit. No more $75 alignments for me, thank you very much.
Last edited by Rubrignitz; 10-27-2009 at 10:31 AM.
#9
The alignment has nothing to do with it riding crappy. That is most likely because your pro-kit Springs have worn out the stock shocks and struts. The stock shocks are nowhere near stiff enough for those springs, so the result is you get all bounced around once they start wearing out.
Now as far as the tire wear, that is due to your camber. You will need the caster/camber plates to get the car back in spec.
Now as far as the tire wear, that is due to your camber. You will need the caster/camber plates to get the car back in spec.
#10
Pull to the right and vibation at speed. Could be wheels out of balance or alignment. Your shocks may be worn as well but those indicate wheel/alignment issues.
Last edited by Rubrignitz; 10-27-2009 at 11:38 AM.