10-22-2015, 05:29 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
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Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
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Lighted Door Sills.... Long and informative install with pics!
Any Pics of your sills?
09-14-2010, 09:09 PM
#43
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 32
I have the 2011 base model and I want to install the lighted ones.
Can I install these somehow?
(I don't have Ambient Lighting)
http://www.fordshowparts.com/store_c...roduct_id=6971
Can I install these somehow?
(I don't have Ambient Lighting)
http://www.fordshowparts.com/store_c...roduct_id=6971
09-15-2010, 10:49 AM
#46
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: RI
Posts: 312
Well I hope that this helps anyone that is on the edge or about to do this install.... really not too difficult and looks killer! 5/10 for difficulty with the hardest part being the splicing of the wires.
5. Now comes the tricky part (well not really) - The Wiring! So we need to attach the supplied wires (Red / Black) into the current wiring ("Black/Light Blue" and the "Yellow/Green"). To do this I used splicing taps which are a little easier than cutting the wire cover off from one wire and soldering the new wire to it.
Once happy, use electrical tape to wrap each connection individually, I then used a zip tie to tidy the cables and keep it out of the way. (Unfortunately you cannot tell if there is power running to the cables as the battery is disconnected.... you could always reconnect the battery to see if it all working at this stage and your connections are good.... don't forget to disconnect again when you continue)
5. Now comes the tricky part (well not really) - The Wiring! So we need to attach the supplied wires (Red / Black) into the current wiring ("Black/Light Blue" and the "Yellow/Green"). To do this I used splicing taps which are a little easier than cutting the wire cover off from one wire and soldering the new wire to it.
Once happy, use electrical tape to wrap each connection individually, I then used a zip tie to tidy the cables and keep it out of the way. (Unfortunately you cannot tell if there is power running to the cables as the battery is disconnected.... you could always reconnect the battery to see if it all working at this stage and your connections are good.... don't forget to disconnect again when you continue)
Just don't use those on wiring exposed to the elements!
Those blue IDC crimp connectors have two wire passages.
One is for the unbroken pass-thru wire.
The other is for the new pigtail wire.
The blue connector has a stop for the new unbroken pigtail wire. When that connector is used properly, there is not a free end dangling outside the connector. Snip the pigtail wire end so the conductor is flush w/ the insulation, no stripped wire exposed.
The additional electrical tape will help prevent problems, but is not required when using the connector as-intended.
Nice write-up!
I also did a double-cringe when observing the wrench on top of the battery.
My preference is to remove and secure the battery negative terminal when doing electrical stuff. That provides maximum safety.
To avoid negative feedback, don't go on-line.
04-19-2012, 02:54 PM
#49
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 128
Thread Revived..
Has anyone purchased these and been able to get them to work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2012-FO...item3f15996b26
Has anyone purchased these and been able to get them to work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2012-FO...item3f15996b26
