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where did you mount your amp

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Old 03-31-2010, 09:12 PM   #21
imfamousjim
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am i the only one who thinks mounting amps to the back of the seat looks cheap? I prefer to hide the amp or mount it in a real nice spot on a wrapped board, maybe with plexiglass, etc.
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Old 03-31-2010, 09:48 PM   #22
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Like this?

Click the image to open in full size.

More here:

http://mustangforums.com/forum/audio...k-and-sub.html

Good luck!

Tim
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Old 03-31-2010, 11:01 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by imfamousjim View Post
am i the only one who thinks mounting amps to the back of the seat looks cheap? I prefer to hide the amp or mount it in a real nice spot on a wrapped board, maybe with plexiglass, etc.
When you say "hide", do you mean, "completely invisible"? I certainly can't see the back side of my rear seat unless I have the trunk open and am bending over to look for it.

As for presentation on a wrapped board; the back of the seat is wrapped in carpet. I guess I don't see the difference.

tdbrown75's setup looks sharp, but what if you need to fold the seats down for some reason?

To each there own I guess; I'm just trying to understand what looks cheap about the setup I and others have.
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Old 03-31-2010, 11:39 PM   #24
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the difference is that you're introducing a lot of risk by mounting the amps to a folding component. lot of unnecessary movement/strain, plus if you're folding the seat down to slide something in, it's gonna be resting on top of the amp. plenty of opportunities to ground out your system or pull on those fragile speaker wires and screw up the speakers. tdbrown simply decided to give up that functionality (and the install looks great).

i'm designing my sound system right now and shaker 1000 location is perfect... just trace & cut a template out of cardboard, transfer to MDF or 3/4" plywood, cover in carpet & screw or bolt in; mount amps, done. takes half an afternoon including picking up supplies.
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Old 04-01-2010, 08:53 AM   #25
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Under the passenger seat seems like a good idea thats were I'm thinking of mounting mine, remove seat, install amp, install seat, rock out, oh yeah
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:49 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HypromanGT View Post
When you say "hide", do you mean, "completely invisible"? I certainly can't see the back side of my rear seat unless I have the trunk open and am bending over to look for it.

As for presentation on a wrapped board; the back of the seat is wrapped in carpet. I guess I don't see the difference.

tdbrown75's setup looks sharp, but what if you need to fold the seats down for some reason?

To each there own I guess; I'm just trying to understand what looks cheap about the setup I and others have.
sorry, I'm not trying to knock yours, its just not the way I'd set it up. If we all had the same opinions we'd be driving the same exact boring car. To me, if i'm going to spend all the time building a box, I'm either gonna spend the same amount of time building an amp rack or hide it completely so it doesn't look like an afterthought (again, my opinion). And yeah, i was going for near invisible on my old setup.
Click the image to open in full size.
(couldn't see that unless you laid on your back in the trunk)

Tim, that looks real nice man.
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:59 AM   #27
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http://www.audio-creations.com/mount...rs-upside-down
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:19 AM   #28
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Hmm, well I mounted it on a 1/4" mdf board to insulate from heat soak through the metal tray, but the concept of "heat rises" escaped me though. Looks like in the future I should make a shelf and keep it rightside up and keep enough room to vent.
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Old 04-01-2010, 12:57 PM   #29
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sorry, I'm not trying to knock yours, its just not the way I'd set it up. If we all had the same opinions we'd be driving the same exact boring car. To me, if i'm going to spend all the time building a box, I'm either gonna spend the same amount of time building an amp rack or hide it completely so it doesn't look like an afterthought (again, my opinion). And yeah, i was going for near invisible on my old setup.
Click the image to open in full size.
(couldn't see that unless you laid on your back in the trunk)

Tim, that looks real nice man.
Hey man, it's all good. I really wasn't being overly defensive (hard to tell over the Internet, though). I was looking for your opinion on why you didn't like it and what you would do differently, and that's exactly what I got! Thanks

Once again, both yours and Tim's installs looks really nice. So nice, in fact, that I'm not even going to post any pics of mine because next to those pics, it's not on the same level (that's probably what you meant initially anyway). I guess I wasn't as fussy with it, as I knew if was all going to be in the trunk anyway.
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Old 04-01-2010, 01:32 PM   #30
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Newbish question here, considering I know virtually nothing when it comes to audio-

I have the base, single cd stereo, would an amp liven it up? Just one? Or would I have to replace speakers, head unit or add a sub woofer?
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Old 04-01-2010, 04:18 PM   #31
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Adding just an amp to factory speakers is kinda pointless. I would add an amp and new speakers to start off with. You can retain your stock headunit, but will have to get a line out converter or wtf ever it's called.
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:23 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by alec231236 View Post
Newbish question here, considering I know virtually nothing when it comes to audio-

I have the base, single cd stereo, would an amp liven it up? Just one? Or would I have to replace speakers, head unit or add a sub woofer?
if you're going to be upgrading piece-by-piece, the biggest bang for your buck and easiest install by far will be upgrading your headunit. an aftermarket one will have a small amplifier built in (the watt ratings are usually listed in RMS per speaker). you'll have to get a wiring harness, which will tie the thing into your factory wiring; and a snap-together kit to replace the trim panel.

once you've upgraded your headunit you probably won't be able to help yourself and will crank it up to the point where you blow a couple of the factory speakers. so that'll be your next step. this is a little trickier because ford chose weird sizes (5x8 & 8", it's probably the front 5x8's that'll go first), and door speakers are annoying to get to.. but you can make things easier by getting a standard size speaker and an adapter plate (or if you're crafty, make the plate yourself out of thin plywood). be sure to replace your speakers in pairs- ie, you don't have to do all of them at once, but whenever you do one, do both sides. most speakers are sold in pairs, so this is probably obvious.

if you have the doors open, might as well throw some sound/vibration deadening material in there- dynamat is a brand name, goes on like a sticker. frost king brand duct insulation is a similar, lighter-weight material sold at Lowe's and other hardware stores- it's not as effective, but it's 1/5 the price (1 $18 roll should do both doors).

so at this point you're under like $300 and you have an entirely new, kickass sound system.

- if you feel like it doesn't have enough thump, you can pick up a sub amp + subwoofer (or a powered subwoofer if you're willing to pay a premium for simplicity); and a speaker-to-line level converter ($15 at walmart), which will get spliced into one (or both) of your rear speaker wires and then run to the amp. make sure that you take the 2 minutes to tune your sub amp to the rest of your system, so that bass hits still sound like music rather than kidney punches. note that most sub amps require running a new fused power line from the battery to the trunk. if you already have the wiring for a Shaker 1000 maybe you can tap into that?

- if you feel like the system with new headunit & speakers still lacks overall volume/ clarity or gets distorted at your favorite volume, that's when you'd want to add in a speaker amp. if you've already put in an aftermarket head unit, you'll run a set of RCA cables from there to the new amp, and you'll need to run new speaker wires from the amp back to the front speakers. if you have both sub & speaker amps, you'll use a power distribution block to split battery power, and will probably replace that line converter with a sub-out from the speaker amp.

if you haven't already seen http://www.crutchfield.com, their prices aren't the best but they have a TON of useful information.
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:02 PM   #33
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well that amp he is looking to mount is pretty small, he can mount it in his dash behinde his glove box. I think thats where the add on amp from Shelby / Kicker mounts too.
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Old 04-02-2010, 07:59 PM   #34
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I created a "floating" mount from carpeted MDF. Provides for plenty of trunk room but blocks the hole when you put the seats down and has stymied me on many occasions when I needed to pack something longer than the trunk is wide. I'd try a "floating" mount to one side of the trunk if the amp is small.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:11 AM   #35
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Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

I installed mine on a rack. I don't ever need to fold my seats down, so this is what's most practical for my setup.
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:48 AM   #36
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doesnt look too bad, but usualy you dont seal off the trunk with the subs in it.... Our stangs are kind of weired anyway. Seats up or down actualy seem to make a difference where 90% of cars I have put systems in, didnt matter at all.
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:33 AM   #37
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I mounted mine on the back of the rear passenger seat.. Just drilled right into it.. I've removed it a couple of times the holes are not noticeable. That spot is also easily accessible when you need to mess with it..
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:33 AM
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