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Loud clicking noise when turning off heater/AC
#21
WELL...I can say one thing, the TWO that can be accessed through the glove box is easy enough, but the ONE that's behind the speedometer, is NOT easy! If someone could post some information on how to get to that one, I would appreciate it. I ended up just snapping the old one off, then I could remove the upper screw, and I was able to put the new one in, but it's only held on by the lower screw for now. That may work, but I would not be surprised for it to start making rattle noises, or break off at some point either.
Last edited by gatkins94; 05-09-2011 at 11:02 AM.
#22
New here, glad I found the thread as I'm having same problem. My question is, mine is still under warranty, the only mods I have done in the engine so far is a Steeda CAI and a Tuner, if I took it to Ford for them to fix, would they have a reason to access the ECU for this and find I flash tuned it?
#23
problem solved
2009 GT/CS My clicking noise started the day before we left Charlotte. It woried me as it sounded like a Starter problem. after living with for a couple of days I didn't see any other problems except the clicking noise. I suffered with it until I got home. After mush searching I found the defrost door actuator was making the noise. This unit is located between the glove box and the radio stack on the heater box way up near the top. To get to this unit you need to lower the glove box( I removed it). I replaced the bad actuator. The noise is gone so far. It takes a 1/4 inch drive 8 mm socket to get the actuator out. Good luck.
#24
2009 GT/CS My clicking noise started the day before we left Charlotte. It woried me as it sounded like a Starter problem. after living with for a couple of days I didn't see any other problems except the clicking noise. I suffered with it until I got home. After mush searching I found the defrost door actuator was making the noise. This unit is located between the glove box and the radio stack on the heater box way up near the top. To get to this unit you need to lower the glove box( I removed it). I replaced the bad actuator. The noise is gone so far. It takes a 1/4 inch drive 8 mm socket to get the actuator out. Good luck.
Of course our warranty ran out 6 days ago.
It ONLY happens when starting the car or when switching from defrost/floor vents to the panel "face" vents.
Sounds like it is coming from way up, like yours.
But looking online at the factory service manual, there are three different motors----one down low, one in the middle which requires the blower motor to come out, and the defrost door motor requires removing the air bag module. Did you remove yours to get at it or was that un necessary?
The part seems cheap enough, and I am decent at spinning a wrench.....just would like to avoid tinkering with the airbag. But seems like that is how you access it?
Do you buy chance have pictures?
#26
I think from your description that you have the same problem that I had. One of the door actuators stripped a tooth off a gear. Lower you Glove box and see if you can identify the actuator that is giving you the problem. They look like a 2' square about 1/2 thick on the side of the heater box with a electric connector and 2 screws holding it in place. Mine had three on the passenger side and one way above the accelerator pedal.
#27
Mine had 3 on the passenger side and one up high on the drivers side. the one I replaced was up near the radio stack. From what I saw lowering the Glovebox or removing it was the only thing to disassemble. They can be hard to get.
#28
I cant believe that this seems to be such a common problem, but Ford hasn't issued a recall on this BS.
This is the third thread (my thread included) in the past few weeks that has been about this issue.
My car is a 6600 mile garage queen, and has never spent a night outside. It's absurd that the car should be breaking so soon. NOT happy.
Stay classy, Ford.
This is the third thread (my thread included) in the past few weeks that has been about this issue.
My car is a 6600 mile garage queen, and has never spent a night outside. It's absurd that the car should be breaking so soon. NOT happy.
Stay classy, Ford.
#29
Thanks for the replies all -- I found out which one it was (the lower one - "floor door actuator") and decided to try to get it out and found it was doable.....so I pulled it out. Then went to rock auto to find a part.
They do not list the part number on the actual part (AR33-19E616BB) but from what I can tell the one they have listed interchanges fine....a Dorman 604262 Should know in a few days when it arrives. $14 shipped.
Versus the $45 the dealer wanted, plus $114 to install plus a $90 diagnostic charge plus taxes and shop supply charge. What a ripoff.
The car has only 32k miles and is out of warranty -- very disappointed that we are already having issues, but praying nothing bigger pops up. In comparison, our 06 Hyundai Sonata had a 10 yr/100,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty and we never needed it. At 126,000 miles we are just now starting to need work on stuff, which in understandable.
They do not list the part number on the actual part (AR33-19E616BB) but from what I can tell the one they have listed interchanges fine....a Dorman 604262 Should know in a few days when it arrives. $14 shipped.
Versus the $45 the dealer wanted, plus $114 to install plus a $90 diagnostic charge plus taxes and shop supply charge. What a ripoff.
The car has only 32k miles and is out of warranty -- very disappointed that we are already having issues, but praying nothing bigger pops up. In comparison, our 06 Hyundai Sonata had a 10 yr/100,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty and we never needed it. At 126,000 miles we are just now starting to need work on stuff, which in understandable.
#30
Yeah, uhuh.
All one has to do is google the problem and it is EVERYWHERE.
I was even more disappointed to learn that the problem goes back years.
Why not just fix it right already?
Praying that since the Mustamg is a "flagship" of the Ford name, it will have fewer problems than others and that this is it for a long time.