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motor mounts or torque brace?

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Old 10-11-2010, 12:18 PM
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07GrabU
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Default motor mounts or torque brace?

O.k. guys and gals, which would you choose? I'm tired of missing 3rd gear at WOT because of the torque binding up the driveline. Would you do prothane motor mounts or the CHE Torque brace limiter? Or both? I have a short throw shifter (hurst billet) which i am totally fine with.I havent heard of anyone needing both the motor mounts and brace ,but I'm sure some do.Thanks!
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:03 PM
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turbo 2.8
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I have had the CHE for about a month and a half now , couldn't be happier , not missed a shift on the street or the track . even at 6100. no problems , I also have the Hurst sts
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:25 PM
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hammeron
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i would start with the CHE (w limiter) brace first and see if that is good enough. it's a simpler
install of the two and may be all you need.
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:41 PM
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Unleashedbeast
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How much added NVH is added with the torque limiters or the engine mounts?

Can someone compare and contrast the two?
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Old 10-11-2010, 03:01 PM
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07GrabU
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I was leaning towards the CHE torque brace first, just wanted to see what other opinions were, I agree about the easier install from what I read
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:05 PM
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SpartaPerformance
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C.H.E. brace, you wont believe how much better the car feels even over bumps without the drivetrain sloshing around.
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:27 PM
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BruceH
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I have prothane mm's. You feel the motor more while driving. I can remember taking it out for a drive the first time thinking it was kinda harsh but I don't notice it any more. Install does require jacking the motor but it's easier than it sounds. If you ever do headers do prothanes at the same time since the motor mounts have to come out for headers anyway.

I never liked my hurst for drag racing. All the shifts seemed to bind some.
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:29 PM
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07VistaChicago
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I have the prothane, no issues now. I like feeling connected to the engine.
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Old 10-11-2010, 10:48 PM
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Kotobuki
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Just on pure theory and design, I'd go with the urethane motor mounts first. The motor mounts, and the associated connecting points, are designed to deal with (and survive) torque-over of the drive train. This is their sole intended purpose. The bell housing, and rear of the engine block are not designed specifically to withstand those stresses.

Given the option of replacing a part with an upgraded version of itself, or adding a completely different part to try to cope with a different part's issue... I say replace the actual offending part. It's kind of like if you have a debilitating illness. Do you want the doctor to just treat the symptoms, or do you want him to get you a cure.
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