New Wheels!!! And a Warning of Too Much Camber...
01-20-2011, 11:04 AM
#41
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Merritt Island, FL
Posts: 996
I would suggest doing shocks and struts when you do the spring install. I did just the springs and panhard bar initially and the ride quality quite honestly sucked even on the stock 17s. I did ride that for about a month before I got the Koni Yellow shocks/struts installed. The ride quality vastly improved. My recommendation would be to do the springs, shocks/struts, panhard bar, and some form of camber adjustment piece (bolts or plates) all at once and install it yourself. The reason I didn't do the front suspension was I didn't like the idea of using the spring compressor. Potential energy in the form of compressed springs isn't my cup of tea. After using the spring compressor, its really not bad at all.
You may or may not want to get camber plates or bolts, but that is up to you. The issue with my tires may have been incorrect toe and/or incorrect camber. Since I installed the camber plates then got an alignment I couldn't tell you what was the culprit. All I know is that my suspension is back to factory specs for caster, camber, and toe, and that makes me feel good.
You may or may not want to get camber plates or bolts, but that is up to you. The issue with my tires may have been incorrect toe and/or incorrect camber. Since I installed the camber plates then got an alignment I couldn't tell you what was the culprit. All I know is that my suspension is back to factory specs for caster, camber, and toe, and that makes me feel good.
01-20-2011, 11:29 AM
#42
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
You can estimate where the camber will end up if you take the time to measure where it is now. There are several DIY ways of getting this done that are all good enough if you don't hurry the measurement process.
After you determine where the cambers are now, plan on camber going about half a degree more negative for every inch that the car is lowered. IOW, if you're at -0.75° now and plan to lower the car by a claimed 1.3", you can expect your cambers to end up at around -1.4°.
Bolt to hole tolerances being taken up toward more negative camber might allow your camber to shift slightly more than half a degree per inch, but this you can correct by pulling the hole clearance closed up the other way (towards positive camber) as you re-assemble.
Norm
After you determine where the cambers are now, plan on camber going about half a degree more negative for every inch that the car is lowered. IOW, if you're at -0.75° now and plan to lower the car by a claimed 1.3", you can expect your cambers to end up at around -1.4°.
Bolt to hole tolerances being taken up toward more negative camber might allow your camber to shift slightly more than half a degree per inch, but this you can correct by pulling the hole clearance closed up the other way (towards positive camber) as you re-assemble.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 01-20-2011 at 11:32 AM.
01-20-2011, 11:59 AM
#43
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Merritt Island, FL
Posts: 996
Norm, that is basically what the camber plates that I installed do. Instead of holes for the 4 bolts at the top of the strut, they have grooves that the bolt can slide in along the camber direction.
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