SchneidyP4.6

I'm pretty sure it's an alternator/battery/electrical issue. When I turn the heater/defroster all the way up it starts to lose RPM's. I then turned on radio, wipers, brake lights, rear defroster... (etc...) it almost stalled, and the gauge lights flicker. Once the cooling fan switched on it stalled out. Now I know how to replicate the problem for the dealer. Thanks for all the input. The voltage gauge seems to be in normal position. Also when looking at the top of the battery, there appears to be a spot to check the voltage. (small circular lens on top) I've seen this on other batteries and they have always looked greenish if the battery was good, this one is pretty dark. Could be a bad battery/cell, but the volt gauge in the cluster is not low... Off to the dealer!

Nuke

The battery indicator "eye" is for the electrolyte, not voltage. Electrolyte readings are the proper method for testing battery condition but few people have hydrometers, let alone batteries that allow you to easily measure electrolyte. If it's dark then it's probably a bad battery. If I recall, dark indicates less than 50% charge. I'd inisist that the dealer load test the battery AND the alternator. Both are very weak links in the entire S197 line.

SchneidyP4.6

Thanks Nuke.

SchneidyP4.6

It was the MAF. Replaced and runs smooth.

Nuke

Thanks for the update. I'm surprised it didn't throw a CEL. I've had MAF's go bad on other cars and it never affected idle but always threw a CEL. Live and learn.

FordService

Hi SchneidyP4.6,

Glad to hear this issue was resolved for you! I’d like you to know if you have any issues or questions in the future, you can private message me. Continue to enjoy your GT!!

Deysha

eolson

Pretty exciting what Steeda has done with the 2011 GT's hey? CIA, 93 octane tune, longtubes, catted X pipe getting 425 rwhp. WOW

Then just take some weight off the car, and it's near a Supercar!!. Erik

SchneidyP4.6

eolson

Lighter race Clutch Assembly..............-12lbs (off front)
Alum. Flywheel.................................-15 lbs (off front) rotating mass*
Re-locate Odessa race battery to rear..-34 lbs (off front/adding 17 lbs to rear)
Steeda radiator strap........................-11 lbs (off front)
Carbon Fiber stock replica race hood...-14 lbs (off front)
..............................Total off front...(-86 lbs) with 17 lbs rotating mass gone


1 piece Alum. Drive Shaft..................-23 lbs (off mid car) rotating mass*
Watts Link......................................-12 lbs (off mid rear)
Ultra Light Springs...........................-08 lbs (off 4 corners)
Lighter, wider wheels.......................-34 lbs (off 4 corners, 8 lbs less each)rotating mass*
Lighter wider Pilot Sport Tires............-08 lbs (off 4 corners,2 lbs less each)rotating mass*
.........Total off mid car /4 corners....(-120 lbs) with 65 lbs rotating mass removed.
.................Total off entire car is....(-206 lbs) plus adding back on the Odessa battery weight of plus 17 lbs, so Total of.....(-189 lbs) off of the car, with 82 lbs rotating mass.

The HP equivalent of removing 189 pounds still weight which includes the total of 82 lbs of rotating mass from the above items would be the equivalent of a about 40 Flywheel HP in acceleration.

Therefore you'd have a 3436 lb 2011 GT with the equivalent N/A HP of 525 Flywheels HP (Steeda Kit 490 HP +weight/ rotating mass removal +40 = 530 approx.) that is also much more nimble in corners because of the weight/rotating mass loss.

Being 400 lbs lighter and with a lot less rotating mass than the GT 500, you'd be at equivalent comparative HP as the GT500, and a lot more nimble, with the same tire grip quality. With 86 lbs off the front, that puts the car at about a 51.5/48.5 front to rear weight ratio also.

Then maybe Motor Trend could have a fairer comparison to the Corvette Z06 and the Nissan GT-R, rather than having the heavier GT500 with an OK suspension. I'd just love to see a properly fit out and weight reduced 2011 Mustang GT being compared to those two cars, but I'm just dreaming, Erik