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Old 07-08-2011, 04:25 PM   #21
siggyfreud
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so with that said, it's not recommended to run top speed events if you have forced induction applications? with stock block or forged internals?
i.e whatever top speed i can get to while in 4th gear i should consider my top speed. I as might as well turn off my o/d permanently as there seems to be no use for it.

How do other high powered automobiles deal with this?
They have stronger internals. I'm not saying you can't ever do it, but think of how long your engine is seeing boost during a top speed event versus a 1/4 mile. In a quater mile it's over in 10-13 seconds (obviously that depends). A top speed event, it might take your car 10x time amount of time to reach top speed. At that point, you're exposing your internals to all that boost over a sustained period. That's like running 10 quarter mile runs in a two minute period.
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Old 07-08-2011, 04:50 PM   #22
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The stock botton end is good for up to 500hp with a GOOD TUNE. A clutch is recommended but not required rightway. The driveshaft is a good to free up some hp and reduce weight but does not have to be replaced.

Sure you could get brakes or upgrade to SS brake lines and pads but really depends on what type of driving your doing. Dual pumps are good but a BAP will also work and less hassle for your not planning for more power but good luck with that. Piece of mind with the dual pumps but plenty of people are running a BAP without any issues at all. I was running a BAP at 470hp and never any problems. As a matter of fact I had more problems with the dual pumps in the beginnging but that was resovled.

In case your wondering my mods include a Whipple HO kit, Spec 3+ clutch, SS brake lines, Hawk pads front/rear, LCA arms w/relocation brackets, MGW shifts, Gauges and various other mods. 13k on the blower running 10psi, 470 to the tire with spirted driving.
Well said. I think that the MOST important "safety" card is a GOOD TUNE! You can easily blow your motor up at 300HP if the tune is not good. Like stated above the "break" point seems to be around 500RWHP on the bottom end, but again, it's all in the tune.
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Old 07-08-2011, 04:57 PM   #23
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so with that said, it's not recommended to run top speed events if you have forced induction applications? with stock block or forged internals?
i.e whatever top speed i can get to while in 4th gear i should consider my top speed. I as might as well turn off my o/d permanently as there seems to be no use for it.

How do other high powered automobiles deal with this?
Just to add some more, it aso has to do with the tranny gearing & final drive ratio's as well. For example, our cars are dynoed on 4th gear because that is the 1:1 ratio. Basically O/D on auto cars or 5th gear on a 5sp car are cruising gears, not "pulling" gears.
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Old 07-08-2011, 06:11 PM   #24
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Mine has a SC with 490hp at the wheels, two years no and no problems at all. Do I pound on it, you bet..
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Old 07-08-2011, 09:03 PM   #25
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They have stronger internals. I'm not saying you can't ever do it, but think of how long your engine is seeing boost during a top speed event versus a 1/4 mile. In a quater mile it's over in 10-13 seconds (obviously that depends). A top speed event, it might take your car 10x time amount of time to reach top speed. At that point, you're exposing your internals to all that boost over a sustained period. That's like running 10 quarter mile runs in a two minute period.
When I think of top speed event, I'm thinking standing mile, in which case it's over in about 30 seconds. And I'd say you are pretty darn close to the top speed. When I did Mojave Mile I hit the speed limiter at just over 1/2 mile (which was disappointing since the speed was pretty mediocre, but showed me the next thing that had to happen)

However in top speed type events, there are always a few cars that push too hard and fail. The people in the 200MPH club talk about how the first 200MPH run cost $$$$$, the second and third, just the cost of gas, so yeah, the big guys are definitely beefing up the engines, trans, drive shaft, rear end... + the safety.
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:46 PM   #26
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Well said. I think that the MOST important "safety" card is a GOOD TUNE! You can easily blow your motor up at 300HP if the tune is not good. Like stated above the "break" point seems to be around 500RWHP on the bottom end, but again, it's all in the tune.
I am taking it to brooks speed to get tuned. I called him and we talked a bit the other day. He is an admin over on modularfords and i have seen nothing but good things about him so I am excited.
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Mine has a SC with 490hp at the wheels, two years no and no problems at all. Do I pound on it, you bet..
Nice. I think I should be good with the ~400 whp i am expecting.
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Old 07-09-2011, 05:21 AM   #27
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Don't get too hung up on posters' hp numbers. There's so much variability between dyno machine types and their operators that 500 on one can be 400 on another. Some operators will give you the number that you want, others will tune to what they believe is safe for your vehicle and screw the final number.

Mine has a SC with 490hp at the wheels, two years no and no problems at all. Do I pound on it, you bet

Pounding it on the street is very very different to pounding it on a prepped surface (dragstrip). There's a ton more shock and stress applied to the car at the dragstrip, that is why survivability and longevity are far greater for light to light racers.
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Old 07-09-2011, 10:54 AM   #28
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In all honesty, I might take it to the track once. I don't have any plans of racing. But what I do plan to do is tell Mr. Brooks that I would like ~400 rwhp, but more importantly i want a safe tune.
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Old 07-09-2011, 10:54 AM
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