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When pushing past the "safe" zone

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Old 06-26-2011, 09:40 PM   #1
Roush05
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Default When pushing past the "safe" zone

as far as power numbers, what all is needed to make sure your car is safe? driveshaft i've heard needs to be replaced with a 1 piece aluminum around 450 whp, but i'm fuzzy on the rest.
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Old 06-26-2011, 10:34 PM   #2
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475 to 500-ish seems to be the number where people start talking forged internals. Do not know about the driveshaft needing to be replaced.

By the way, if you're going FI, just go with the Roush / Eaton M90. That will put you right at around the magic number.
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Old 06-26-2011, 10:41 PM   #3
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i have a vortech v3 on the way

edit: ballpark, what will forged internals cost? is it just forged pistons or is there more?
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Old 06-26-2011, 11:07 PM   #4
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don't forget the clutch and the brakes...
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Old 06-26-2011, 11:10 PM   #5
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You should also think about a precision balance on the rotating assembly when you get much over 450ish.
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:16 AM   #6
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The stock botton end is good for up to 500hp with a GOOD TUNE. A clutch is recommended but not required rightway. The driveshaft is a good to free up some hp and reduce weight but does not have to be replaced.

Sure you could get brakes or upgrade to SS brake lines and pads but really depends on what type of driving your doing. Dual pumps are good but a BAP will also work and less hassle for your not planning for more power but good luck with that. Piece of mind with the dual pumps but plenty of people are running a BAP without any issues at all. I was running a BAP at 470hp and never any problems. As a matter of fact I had more problems with the dual pumps in the beginnging but that was resovled.

In case your wondering my mods include a Whipple HO kit, Spec 3+ clutch, SS brake lines, Hawk pads front/rear, LCA arms w/relocation brackets, MGW shifts, Gauges and various other mods. 13k on the blower running 10psi, 470 to the tire with spirted driving.
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Old 06-27-2011, 01:14 AM   #7
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I think the only thing I'll do is the driveshaft, I don't get on the car a lot so I don't really see myself going all out on brakes and forged internals. If your not taking your car to the drag strip on the reg I wouldn't worry about much.
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Old 06-27-2011, 01:31 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roush05 View Post
i have a vortech v3 on the way

edit: ballpark, what will forged internals cost? is it just forged pistons or is there more?
a forged short block is the easiest way. But you'll often spend nearly a grand for head bolts, gaskets, sealant, cam phasers/bolts etc.

It's not bad for the amount of sheer power you'll be able to put through the motor.. then you'll have to worry about the drive-train rofl

If I ever go forged, it'll most likely be an NA build.. nothing fancy other than a forged 10:1 compression 302, FRPP top end kit, a high stall torque converter and lightweight drive-shaft. A lot of work for 350whp but by that time, my goal will no longer be for "brute hp"
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Old 06-27-2011, 01:43 AM   #9
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ps
stay out of boosting into final (5th) gear and no top speed runs!
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Old 06-27-2011, 05:55 AM   #10
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stealth, what do you have done to your block?

loots, what kind of power do you make?
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