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Old 02-10-2012, 11:39 AM
  #21  
Jeffk
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I'm running my 1600W Brutus amp powering 2 Boston 10's on 4ga and haven't burned up any wire. The amp does not have a fan on it and the only time it ever shut down on me was about 5 hours into a road trip to Savannah, wife and I had the windows down and the music LOUD.
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Old 02-10-2012, 01:45 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Jeffk
I'm running my 1600W Brutus amp powering 2 Boston 10's on 4ga and haven't burned up any wire. The amp does not have a fan on it and the only time it ever shut down on me was about 5 hours into a road trip to Savannah, wife and I had the windows down and the music LOUD.
I like the options you presented earlier in the post. is that kenwood amp good if I get a 12" kicker subwoofer? The guy at best buy said it would be best if the amp matched up to the sub. as for the 12" kicker im looking at it comes with an enclosure for a total of $110.

the sub isn't huge only 150w rms and i was eyeing this amp:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...00.2.html#tabs

Last edited by markkk; 02-10-2012 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 02-10-2012, 05:53 PM
  #23  
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I think what the guy was trying to tell you is that you want to match the amp power ratigs to the sub you are using. You don't want to put a 1600w amp on a 250w sub. On the other hand you don't want your amp to be too weak to push the sub, then you end up working the amp harder to try to get the sound you want. You can get an amp that is rated a little higher than the sub so that you can turn the gain down keeping the amp from working hard and overheating. The other spec you need to pay attention to is ohms your amp and sub should be capable of running the same ohms whether it be 2 or 4 ohms.
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Old 02-11-2012, 01:32 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Jeffk
I think what the guy was trying to tell you is that you want to match the amp power ratigs to the sub you are using. You don't want to put a 1600w amp on a 250w sub. On the other hand you don't want your amp to be too weak to push the sub, then you end up working the amp harder to try to get the sound you want. You can get an amp that is rated a little higher than the sub so that you can turn the gain down keeping the amp from working hard and overheating. The other spec you need to pay attention to is ohms your amp and sub should be capable of running the same ohms whether it be 2 or 4 ohms.
Yes! thats perfect. The kicker amp I'm looking to get is 200w rms and the sub is 150w rms. Its a small sub but its a nice single 12" kicker. The ohms matches up too. Now that I have tracked down the specific sub and amp, what other cords do I need to get?

heres the amp

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...=shopzilla_cse

and heres the sub

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...4-10VC124.html

You showed me this amp kit earlier but idk if theyll match this kicker amp

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...te_Kit650.aspx

Last edited by markkk; 02-11-2012 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 02-12-2012, 10:57 AM
  #25  
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So i finally put a foot down and got what i wanted. I purchased a new 12" kicker sub vc124 w/ enclosure off of ebay for 110 bucks. I also purchased a kicker amplifier for 130 bucks off of sonicelectronix.com. Not a huge setup but I know this'll get the job done. As soon as the amp and sub get here I'll be able to see what cords I need so I can goto the store and get them. Thanks for everyone's input! I'm really pumped to put it in, and since I have a good video camera I'll post a vid!
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:59 AM
  #26  
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Congrats! Are you installing this yourself?

There are a couple of ways you can do it.

You can tap into the rear speaker in the trunk and run those wires to the speaker level inputs on the amp which will be the easiest way.

The other way is to get a amplifier interface that connects behind your radio and adds 2 sets of RCA connections. Then you run RCA cables from there to the trunk.

The Amp hook-up kit that I linked you to before will work for that amp since it's an 8ga kit.
I've also bought some stuff from a company called KnuKonceptz and it's all been real nice stuff.
Here's their amp kit.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KFX-AK8

It comes with RCA cables which you may or may not need though.
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Old 02-13-2012, 02:46 PM
  #27  
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I connected my Line-Out converter to the wiring going into the Door Sub-Woofer AMP. This way I am getting Pre-Amp Signal. I have heard Ford alters the Base levels if you get it at the speaker.
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Old 02-14-2012, 02:07 AM
  #28  
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Well, i must say, some very good info on this thread. I should be back in the States early next year and plan on putting a system in my whip. One thing for certain, dont think I will be going to best buy or letting those individuals install my system, lol
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:23 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by dmhines
I connected my Line-Out converter to the wiring going into the Door Sub-Woofer AMP. This way I am getting Pre-Amp Signal. I have heard Ford alters the Base levels if you get it at the speaker.
I think that's only true if you have the shaker500 with the subs in the door. Mark doesn't have that so he should be ok with tapping into the rear speakers. The other option is to use something like PAC interface Which also gives you the remote wire needed for the amp.

I used that with my Shaker500 and It seems to work pretty well so I'm pretty sure it will work with a non shaker unit. The only problem Mark might have is that his is a 2010. I'm not sure if that interface works with anything newer than '09.

Last edited by Jeffk; 02-14-2012 at 09:26 AM.
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:28 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by a_lopez1975
Well, i must say, some very good info on this thread. I should be back in the States early next year and plan on putting a system in my whip. One thing for certain, dont think I will be going to best buy or letting those individuals install my system, lol
Only if you want wire nuts connecting your system together and speaker wires just twisted on the terminals. True story BTW. Might not be true for every Best Buy though.
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