nbd13

Hey everyone,

So have a 2006 GT convertible. You know how when you open the door, the window is supposed to go down a little then go back up...well my car isn't doing it?

Also, when the door is closed and you hit the power window button, the window goes all the way up then comes right back down? It won't stay up?

I should also say, it's just the driver side window, the passenger side window and back 1/4 windows are both fine.

What is the problem? I tired disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes and reconnecting it and still the same problem? What's the problem?

Thanks,

Nick

wayne613

Recalibrate window(s). It's in the owners manual I believe (page 60 in mine, just look for the power windows section of the TOC). Or just search for the term.."recalibrate window".

An example posted by 157db:
https://mustangforums.com/forum/6187882-post5.html

another:
https://mustangforums.com/forum/6917053-post8.html

and a link to TSB on the issue:
https://mustangforums.com/mustang-ts...AGNOSTICS.html

nbd13

Thanks,

So, I tried that...but even if I hold the up button the window goes up, then right back down and stops like 1/3 of the way up???? No matter what I do, the window will not stay up?

It won't even go down a little when you open the door??

What gives do I need a new power window motor?

Thanks,

Nick

wayne613

If it's moving, then "likely" not. Did you read the ENTIRE portion of the power windows section of the owners manual?

The short drop is triggered by the door switch, (which connects to the interior lighting SJB logic, page 2) with a completion to ground or not by that switch triggering the short drop or raise by the motor.

and I quote:
There is a TSB involving issues where it would drag against the rear quarter seal until it was cut through if not seated/adjusted correctly, but showing itself this far down the line without you noticing anything else before is unlikely.. If these motors fail, they tend to let you truly know it, not just bounce-back, stop, and not do the short drop anymore. Either being extremely slow, and then stopping, or simply completely dieing, usually taking out the BEC motor specific fuse in the process.

Spain1982

I have a question about the "calibration" procedure. My pass window clips the conv roof. Sometimes, the window stays on the outside of the roof. I afraid it might break the window someday. Otherwise, the short drop appears to be working properly. I performed the recommended de-initialization, re-initialization, and calibration procedures, and the window still clips the roof. It's beginning to fray. So, do you think this procedure actually calibrates? Do you think there's a way to adjust the "drop-distance"?

wayne613

During the procedure is it dropping as far down as the driver's? My guess without anything further to go on would be either an obstruction of some kind during this, you haven't actually gotten it to do the full calibration, something is out of adjustment, or a weak motor. You can try spraying some silicone spray on the rubber to allow it to move a bit easier, then try the procedure again and see if it helps or not.

SD 197

I know exactly the problem! A simple fix, should take you 10 seconds.

I had the same issue, it was actually part of the weather stripping on the convertible top.

Right above the window with your convertible top up, you will notice a rubber weather strip about 1 foot long. Over time, it will move or loosen.

Push it in, make sure it is seated correctly on the frame rail. What is happening is that weather strip is out of place slightly, and interfering with the window going up, it obstructs the window making it think like there is a finger or something in the way and causes the window to back down after it hits the weather stripping.

Also, unrelated to your problem but something you may need in the future, a quick way to reset the express feature of your windows is to hold the window up button all the way until it closes, hold a few seconds more until you hear a click. It is reset.

Spain1982

Wayne613, thanks for the reply. Yes, I tried to measure the drop distance on both the drivers side and the pass side. It's difficult to find a good reference to measure against, but both windows appear to be traveling about the same distance.

I took the car to the dealer on Wednesday and they adjusted the window's position in the door. I had found this procedure on after Googling a little more. The document is called, "GENERAL PROCEDURES, Window Glass Adjustment — Front Door, Height Stop Adjustment", Document# 501-11-1 under "Glass, Frames, and Mechanisms." Sorry, I didn't save the link. If I find it again, I'll post it later.

This procedure entails removing the inside door panel, making adjustments to a set screw, testing, and readjusting. If all dimensions are not factory perfect, than a happy medium must be found between a good air seal and clearing the convertible roof. I suspect that my roof is misaligned.

It looks like the technician did an acceptable job. The time charged was 1.5 hrs. The window definitely clears the roof now when closing the door. If I open the door slowly enough, the window clears the roof or rubs only slightly. It makes me wonder, does the window continue drop a little more after a few seconds. If not, then why does it clear completely clear the roof by the time I close the door? This may point to another issue as to how well the door switch is working. I'll look into that a little more closely over the next few weeks.

That's all for now. Thank you, everyone, for the suggestions. I'll provide a final update in a few weeks.