Thinking about Trading In A 10' For 12' or 13'...
12-09-2012, 04:04 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Alabama
Posts: 174
Thinking about Trading In A 10' For 12' or 13'...
Well... I really would like to have the 5.0 engine, with that being said I was thinking about trading my 2010 GT in for one. Inform me on the pro's and con's of trading my car in for one. Would I loose my *** off? Could I possibly come out ahead, my car isnt paid off.
12-09-2012, 06:24 PM
#4
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NW AR
Posts: 705
Just do it, I had a 2010 with 2200 miles and was fortunate enough to get crashed into by an idiot who wasn't paying attention and I ended up getting a 2011 5.0 out of it. There is a world of difference in the 2 engines. If you have the means to then do it, you won't regret it.
12-09-2012, 06:35 PM
#5
Be prepared to take a massive hit. even FORD dealers admit they won't pay good money for a 4.6L, yet when they get it from you they'll put it on the lot for 5-7k above what they paid your for it.
You do have the glass roof options which is like $2400 bucks if I remember correctly so you have an advantage, but also if you have any decent mods make sure you get the dealer to anti up or let them know they will be taken off if they don't up their price.
Just to give you an idea, I traded my 2011 GT premium for a 13. it stickered for $35k new. I had about 60k on the odometer, $3000 in mods into it, and got $18,600 for it. Now some caveats to this were, I picked it up as a CPO with 44k on the odometer. I only paid $19k for it through a good deal.
However, with the AMR wheels, tires, exhaust mods etc, I was into it 3k like I said, but I also beat this car into the ground, especially going on a tear Black Friday night... I heard something pop in the engine, told the dealer, they had their shop check it out, they ok'd it, and still gave me $18,600 for it, but I had to include the rims, upgraded brakes, exhaust etc.
The body an interior were pristine, brakes were two weeks old, exhaust 1 day old. wheels, 3 months old.
take my mods off I would have probably gotten 15 for it because of mileage. Anyway, it sits on their site now in the pre-owned section for $24,996.00. They did have to put new TPMS sensors in it because I didn't put them in with the wheel upgraded.
I even took my 5.0 floor and trunk mats. I refused to give those up.
Really it is YMMV from dealer to dealer. You need to seek a dealer who may have some used stangs on their lot and see if they're modded. Then discuss.
Used car prices have gone up since Hurricane Sandy hit the east coast wiping out something like 1,000,000 cars so dealers hear ar hungry for inventory.
You do have the glass roof options which is like $2400 bucks if I remember correctly so you have an advantage, but also if you have any decent mods make sure you get the dealer to anti up or let them know they will be taken off if they don't up their price.
Just to give you an idea, I traded my 2011 GT premium for a 13. it stickered for $35k new. I had about 60k on the odometer, $3000 in mods into it, and got $18,600 for it. Now some caveats to this were, I picked it up as a CPO with 44k on the odometer. I only paid $19k for it through a good deal.
However, with the AMR wheels, tires, exhaust mods etc, I was into it 3k like I said, but I also beat this car into the ground, especially going on a tear Black Friday night... I heard something pop in the engine, told the dealer, they had their shop check it out, they ok'd it, and still gave me $18,600 for it, but I had to include the rims, upgraded brakes, exhaust etc.
The body an interior were pristine, brakes were two weeks old, exhaust 1 day old. wheels, 3 months old.
take my mods off I would have probably gotten 15 for it because of mileage. Anyway, it sits on their site now in the pre-owned section for $24,996.00. They did have to put new TPMS sensors in it because I didn't put them in with the wheel upgraded.
I even took my 5.0 floor and trunk mats. I refused to give those up.
Really it is YMMV from dealer to dealer. You need to seek a dealer who may have some used stangs on their lot and see if they're modded. Then discuss.
Used car prices have gone up since Hurricane Sandy hit the east coast wiping out something like 1,000,000 cars so dealers hear ar hungry for inventory.
12-09-2012, 07:32 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: California
Posts: 242
I did the exact trade back in August. Dealership gave me $22000 for my 2010 with 15000 miles on her and I only owed I believe $13000(I always pay extra every month). So I came out ahead by about $8000. Best car upgrade yet! Interior is exactly the same as the 2010 but the guts of the 5.0 changes the game.
12-10-2012, 02:23 AM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Alabama
Posts: 174
oooohh ok, so I may just come out good if I get like a 11 or 12 then because all I want is the engine to be honest. I will have to do some looking I guess even if I get 17 for mines. I have 51k on the clock. Sounds realistic? No damage everything is in good condition with new tires.
12-10-2012, 06:02 AM
#8
Maybe... the best thing to do is run a series of checks through NADA, KBB and few other e-sites that do car trade values.
Also, if you know anyone in the car business, who uses Manheim, ask them to run a check to see what 2010 Mustang GT premiums are going for at Auction.
I have seen more and more dealers doing this now, and since auction is the lowest price possible, the dealers tend to go with that and if you argue with them about it, they just shut down because they will claim it is going to auction they won't keep it on their lots.
To me personally, and this is probably just a whole other discussion, is the attitude from dealers hasn't changed which is why perception hasn't changed. They're so set in their archaic ways of doing things it still becomes a turn off.
I have purchased my last 4 Mustangs from Dealers who DO NOT pay their salesmen on a per vehicle comission basis. A lot of dealers are kind of following the CAR MAX model now, and it works better because pay is based on total volume not per vehicle.
I sold cars at one point myself, and the dealer I worked for, many moons ago, just paid a flat rate of $100 per deal (new). We we're a high volume dealer. IF we received a factory delivery of say 30+ SUV's because the local rep would give those things away if they produced too many, then an extra "spiff" was put on the SUV of say an additonal $100-$150 to get them moved.
So my best advice is to seek out a dealer that uses the CAR MAX model for how their salesmen get paid, it creates less hassle and headaches.
My only other piece of advice is don't even bother trying to find a new 12... they are all but gone, unless you go through eBay motors and some dealer has a left over GT they need to get rid of, and quick.
If going used, make sure you do the checks and balances. If you can wait 4 months the 14's will be out in late March.
To really get the best deal, you need to find a model very close to the date you're buying. You need to find the build date of the car, it is on the window sticker. The closer the build date, to your date of purchase, the more wiggle room you have to negotiate.
While everyone knows about Invoice versus Sticker... what some don't know is the holdback, which is an additional 1000-1500 under the invoice. Getting a vehicle that was built... let's say... December 3rd or 4th, the dealer hasn't eaten into the hold back yet (which is money for prep, making interest payments on the creidt line for vehicle inventory etc). So the closer the build date the better deal to be had. You can get the dealer to go about $500 under invoice in those cases, especially this time of year when Mustangs do not sell as well compared to early spring.
If you find a left over, you need to get the dealer to contact the local Ford Rep to ask them to kick in additional "get it out of here money". I did that with my 04 GT. You can sometimes walk away with the car at X-plan or lower just because they need to get it off their lot.
Also, if you know anyone in the car business, who uses Manheim, ask them to run a check to see what 2010 Mustang GT premiums are going for at Auction.
I have seen more and more dealers doing this now, and since auction is the lowest price possible, the dealers tend to go with that and if you argue with them about it, they just shut down because they will claim it is going to auction they won't keep it on their lots.
To me personally, and this is probably just a whole other discussion, is the attitude from dealers hasn't changed which is why perception hasn't changed. They're so set in their archaic ways of doing things it still becomes a turn off.
I have purchased my last 4 Mustangs from Dealers who DO NOT pay their salesmen on a per vehicle comission basis. A lot of dealers are kind of following the CAR MAX model now, and it works better because pay is based on total volume not per vehicle.
I sold cars at one point myself, and the dealer I worked for, many moons ago, just paid a flat rate of $100 per deal (new). We we're a high volume dealer. IF we received a factory delivery of say 30+ SUV's because the local rep would give those things away if they produced too many, then an extra "spiff" was put on the SUV of say an additonal $100-$150 to get them moved.
So my best advice is to seek out a dealer that uses the CAR MAX model for how their salesmen get paid, it creates less hassle and headaches.
My only other piece of advice is don't even bother trying to find a new 12... they are all but gone, unless you go through eBay motors and some dealer has a left over GT they need to get rid of, and quick.
If going used, make sure you do the checks and balances. If you can wait 4 months the 14's will be out in late March.
To really get the best deal, you need to find a model very close to the date you're buying. You need to find the build date of the car, it is on the window sticker. The closer the build date, to your date of purchase, the more wiggle room you have to negotiate.
While everyone knows about Invoice versus Sticker... what some don't know is the holdback, which is an additional 1000-1500 under the invoice. Getting a vehicle that was built... let's say... December 3rd or 4th, the dealer hasn't eaten into the hold back yet (which is money for prep, making interest payments on the creidt line for vehicle inventory etc). So the closer the build date the better deal to be had. You can get the dealer to go about $500 under invoice in those cases, especially this time of year when Mustangs do not sell as well compared to early spring.
If you find a left over, you need to get the dealer to contact the local Ford Rep to ask them to kick in additional "get it out of here money". I did that with my 04 GT. You can sometimes walk away with the car at X-plan or lower just because they need to get it off their lot.
Last edited by Gary Ugarek; 12-10-2012 at 06:09 AM.
12-10-2012, 07:48 AM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Alabama
Posts: 174
Woww! I didnt know that. Im definitley gonna look for all of those key aspects.
Never knew it got that deep. My ideal buy would be a 5.0 with about 10-20 k on the clock. Nothing special. So now wouldnt be a good time to go looking for one huh either a used 11 or 12?
Never knew it got that deep. My ideal buy would be a 5.0 with about 10-20 k on the clock. Nothing special. So now wouldnt be a good time to go looking for one huh either a used 11 or 12?
12-10-2012, 11:43 AM
#10
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: The Gump, Alabama
Posts: 240
Manheim Market Report for 2010 GT Prem w/51K
Dec 10 - Dec 17 2012
Above Average Below
Auction $20,600 $18,000 $15,400
Est. Retail $25,400 $23,000 $20,600
Typically a dealer will try to give you about 1-2K below average auction. That way if they have to take it to auction they'll still make money. Sorry about the spacing, it was right when I posted it.
Dec 10 - Dec 17 2012
Above Average Below
Auction $20,600 $18,000 $15,400
Est. Retail $25,400 $23,000 $20,600
Typically a dealer will try to give you about 1-2K below average auction. That way if they have to take it to auction they'll still make money. Sorry about the spacing, it was right when I posted it.
Last edited by solaratomic; 12-10-2012 at 11:47 AM.