obxdude018

I was on my way out of work and try to start the car, engine cranks with no problems. I checked the obvious things, fuses and such. It was 10:30 and I didn't have any tools with me. I couldn't hear the pump kick on, but that could be just something else. It ran just fine to work with no problems. Just strange that something would pop from setting there, but it's possible. Im gonna go and test the components in the morning and see if I can pinpoint the problem.

petrock

I assume your problem is that the car cranks, but won’t start. If so, start with the basics by checking the fuses, relays & the inertia switch in the trunk.

First check the inertia switch in the trunk to make sure it hasn’t popped. If it has, just push it back in and you should be good to go. If it hasn’t then continue on...

A visual check of fuses is not very accurate. A fuse can be blown but visually appear to be ok (especially at night when its dark). A proper test is with a multi-meter set to continuity or with a fuse tester (available at most auto parts stores for a couple bucks).

If all the fuses check out, then check the relays. You should hear and feel the fuel pump relay click when you turn the key to the ON position (engine off). If not, then you might not be getting 12 volts at pin 86 or ground at pin 85, or the relay may be bad. If you do hear/feel the click, you may not be getting 12 volts at pin 30, or the wire between pin 87 and the pump is broken, or the pump may not have a good ground, or the pump is bad.

Since you mentioned that the car cranks with no problem, but you did not hear the fuel pump go on, try swapping the fuel pump and starter relays and see if the problem follows the relay. If the car won’t crank and you hear the fuel pump prime, then you know the relay is bad and the wiring & pump is good.

If the relays check out, check the voltage across the power & ground wires at the pump when you turn the key to the on position (engine off). It should read within 0.5 volts of battery voltage during the period of time that the pump should be priming. Any less voltage then that and there is resistance on the power or ground wire which could be contributing to your problem. If you get zero volts, then the power or ground wire is broken somewhere. If you do get battery voltage, but the pump still doesn’t prime then the pump is most likely bad.

If the problem is resistance or broken wire, let me know. It is fairly simple to track down.

Good luck...

Goldenpony

My '06 GT just quit last year with no warning. Problem was the fuel pump driver module.

obxdude018

Popped a relay, got to stop buying the cheap radioshack relays.