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Old 05-15-2013, 12:18 PM   #21
BrianK
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So I've taken the car out now and I still have the pad noise on the rotors. It just looks/feels like something is preventing the calipers from releasing enough to retract far enough to prevent the pads from rubbing on the rotors. Whiel up on a hoist and the wheels raised I can turn the wheels fairly easily so the calipers are releasing but turn the car on and put it in gear then the tshhh tshhh tshhhj starts up on both sides.
Could there be something else in the braking system preventing the calipers from retracting just a bit more . The noise is driving me nuts. I'd hate to go buy new calipers for $150 each and find out this doesn't fix the problem.
Thanks
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:53 PM   #22
Derf00
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Brian, start your own thread. you will get more hits.
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if you are getting 29mpg in your 5.0, you aren't driving it correctly
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:25 PM   #23
pascal
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If you guys care to know, you're supposed to replace your brake fluid every 3 years, regardless of mileage.
It helps on maintenance as well.

What happened to the guy that's done this for 20 years? LOL.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:10 AM   #24
BrianK
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Didn't mean to hijack the thread - just that the problems appear very similar and if there were any helpful tips or suggestions it would probably help the OP as well.
Will start a new thread.
Brian
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:06 PM   #25
fullmonte60
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great thread. autozone by me rents the OEM-27111 unit. I was able to get by just removing the master cylinder cap.
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:18 AM   #26
BrianK
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I had the same issue with these rear calipers and although I didn't have to tool shown, I did have the little square adapter that fits on a 3/8 ratchet with an extension. I tried to turn it in and it wouldn't go. I opened the brake bleeder screw to try to relieve the pressure (if there was any) and that didn't work either. So I took the brake hose and the e-brake cable and took the caliper over to the bench. I put it in the vise to hold it and it turned in easily with the tool as it is supposed to. Not sure why the hydraulic line had to be disconnected but that made it much easier. I was going to bleed the brakes anyway so not a big deal for me.
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:15 AM   #27
fullmonte60
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I had bled them last year so I was glad to avoid it...lol
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-FRPP duals w/GTBs, FRPP CAK, Shaftmasters d/s, BBK 70mm tb, SS headers,17" Bullitts, Cervini grill, CDC seqs, Roush hood scoop, GT f&r sways, FRPP M-2300-D brakes, UMI subfrms, Steeda g-trac, SMR stb, CHE lcas, J&M panhard
2000 Laser Red GT Vert 4.6/Auto
-Flowmaster Amer. Thund. c/b, C&L 80mm CAK, FRPP alum d/s, March UDP
1989 Bright Regatta Blue LX 5.0/5 Sp
-Flowmaster 817574, Summit alum d/s & rear CAs, 3.73s, BBK2506, K&N 33-2015, Steeda STB, SMR 2 pt brace
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:15 AM
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