Is there a fuse for the O2 sensors?
02-14-2009, 03:19 PM
#4
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: California
Posts: 1,495
Per Ford Wiring Diagrams manual for 2007 Mustang, F47, 15 amp fuse in the Bussed Electrical Center (fuse box under the hood) is for A/C clutch relay, EVAP canister vent control solenoid, EGR system module, Heated oxygen sensors (HO2S), Variable valve timing solenoid, Inlet Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) module, Automatic transmission, EVAP canister purge valve, Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, Brake pedal position switch, Heated Position Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. Whew!
02-14-2009, 04:05 PM
#5
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
06-07-2019, 10:30 PM
#8
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: TX
Posts: 3
a/c clutch not turning, fuses or relays??
Per Ford Wiring Diagrams manual for 2007 Mustang, F47, 15 amp fuse in the Bussed Electrical Center (fuse box under the hood) is for A/C clutch relay, EVAP canister vent control solenoid, EGR system module, Heated oxygen sensors (HO2S), Variable valve timing solenoid, Inlet Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) module, Automatic transmission, EVAP canister purge valve, Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, Brake pedal position switch, Heated Position Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. Whew!
No idea of anyone will see this since it’s been years but here it goes. I have a 2010 mustang. About 3 years ago my car turnEd off on the highway and I coasted to an off ramp. It took me 3 days to find a tiny piece of leaf stuck in the MAF sensor. I cleared it and the car started up (it did run rough after this). Since then I’ve had codes coming up for EVAP, EGR valve, Purge Solenoid and the O2Senors. I’ve also replaced the thermostat and housing TWICE, first time was the end of 2017 and again 2 months ago, cause the bottom gasket was melted. I have replaced all of these things above yet the codes continue to pop up...grrrrrrr. 2 summers ago when the check engine light originally came on (it had been popping on and off for a few days), I was at a stop light when the car shook/shimmied and the a/c stopped blow cold air but then it would come back on when the car shook again...this is hell in Texas btw... I took the car to Ammaco and had the a/c checked, they ran a dye, filled the Freon charged me a buttload of money and said they found no issues. Yet the a/c would continue to work or not work. I’ve replaced the blower motor relay and all a/c related fuses....nothing still.
Recently I replaced the drive belt & idler pulley. The a/c turned on!!! And blew ice cold. I took the car for a quick drive but the a/c stopped and has blown hot air since. I see that the a/c clutch is not engaging now. I’m wondering if the drive belt is too loose? Can I tighten that? All other pulleys are spinning though. But today I decided to try replacing fuse #25 10A a/c compressor relay...still hot air. Last summer I replaced the blower motor relay #51 full iso relay, I touched it today and it is hot to the touch! Thinking about replacing it again.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I’m seriously at a loss now. When the air turns on I smell a musty scent coming from the vents, it would smell like that every time the a/c would stop blowing cold. I’m thinking about locating the drain and seeing if that’s clogged too. I’ll add that every time I start the car up there is a click click click click click noise inside the dash, it’s always done this though and the cars a/c use to run perfectly until after finding the leaf in the MAF sensor, EVAP & EGR issues.
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