white08gt

I would look into the hub concentric rings. contact your rim maker and ask what size for your car. what type of lug nut are you using, they are different between hub or lug concentric? even if the wheels are lug concentric I would get the hub rings.

wcgman

Maybe you're breaking them cuz youre a stud? lol Stupid I know, but Im really tired and kinda punch drunk so my humor is a little off.

Rudolph Hucker

are you using after market wheels?
if so you MUST use spigot rings..the wheel nuts are there just to hold the wheel on the hub.without spigot rings the car will be dangerous

cariacou

what's this ?

wcgman

Ring that goes around the hub which decreases the bore size. It's typically used for aftermarket wheels or swapping wheels between different manufacturers.

Not to be mistaken for a c*** ring. That's totally different.

jeremy813

Haven't had a chance to test out any theories yet. And only breaking 2 studs in 10 months, not sure I would even be able to tell if it worked.

So far I've got...

1. Nuts are bottoming out on the studs.
2. Tinnerman nuts aren't allowing the wheel to seat.
3. No hub rings. (spigot rings)

I am going to go with some combination of 1 and 2.

A lot of people including myself have never used hub rings. As long as you put the wheel on slowly and evenly, the cone seat of the lug will center the wheel. Once the wheel is torqued, hub rings do nothing. The load of the wheel is on the hub face not the ring.

In the picture you can see where the tinnerman nut was located and I think the stud that broke was to the immediate left of the "nut".

You'll also notice some odd wear near the edges of the wheel's hub mating surface, kind of radiating away from the area where the tinnerman nut was.

I think if I get rid of those tinnerman nuts and get some new lug nuts I should be OK. I think I am going to get the open ended nuts that the wheel supplier sells. They have a little different design than the ones I am using now. Looks like it has more seating surface. The McGard nuts I have sacrifice seating surface so that I can get a socket on them.

http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Product-.../DSC2264-M.jpg

vs.

The lug nuts you see in the original post.

jeremy813

Damn, looking at it more, I think it looks pretty obvious that the tinnerman or speed nut had something to do with it. Looks like I barely had any mating surface at all to the hub. Just the area of the speed nut itself and the tiny pieces of the outside edges of the hub away from the area of the nut.

Sucks that I didn't think to take those things off. At least I didn't lose a wheel. Just 2 nuts and studs.

Rudolph Hucker

never used spigot rings?
wtf dude..my cars have been undrivable without them..i suggest the op goes this route..again the spigot rings centre the after market wheel perfectly and take most of the strain on the wheel nuts..the hub should do the work..
cheap, easy to to fit and peace of mind..
google spigot rings and you'll see what i mean

FrostByte

Because u said u had nuts bottoming out means either the studs are to long & run out of threads or the wheel isnt thick enough. Either way you need spacers. I bet even tho you torqued the wheels they wernt really tight because of the nuts bottoming out. This gives you wobble & stress to break the studs. IMHO. spacers. Tinnerman nuts are not the prob.

Rudolph Hucker

http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/sh...they-important

read this dudes..imho you are risking your life running after maket wheels and no spigot rings..
u cant line the wheel up millimeter perfect without them..both my stangs needed them..in fact i wouldn't go over 50 mph with out em.
50 usd for peace of mind