Lowering The Stang.
#1
Lowering The Stang.
First time lowering a Car and have a few questions, Listed below are the parts I will be purchasing for lowering/Strengthening my rear end.
Eibach Sportline Spring Kit - Coupe & Convertible
Steeda Adjustable Panhard Bar
Eibach Pro-Alignment Rear Lower Control Arm
Steeda Adjustable Street Rear Upper Control Arm
Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates
Have two questions, Firstly, Are the Caster Camber Plates required? I've heard from many sources they are but I'd prefer to take a poll and see peoples experiences when lowering their 'stang. Secondly, Anyone think the brands I chose should be changed? I'm attempting not to break the bank, But I also refuse to place anything less than the best parts on my Baby.
Thanks in advance!
Eibach Sportline Spring Kit - Coupe & Convertible
Steeda Adjustable Panhard Bar
Eibach Pro-Alignment Rear Lower Control Arm
Steeda Adjustable Street Rear Upper Control Arm
Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates
Have two questions, Firstly, Are the Caster Camber Plates required? I've heard from many sources they are but I'd prefer to take a poll and see peoples experiences when lowering their 'stang. Secondly, Anyone think the brands I chose should be changed? I'm attempting not to break the bank, But I also refuse to place anything less than the best parts on my Baby.
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by FivePointToTheOh; 06-26-2013 at 02:40 PM.
#2
I just lowered my car and only bought Ford Racing K Springs, new Jounce Bumper Kit, and Camber Bolts. Didn't put the camber bolts in. Your setup looks good, but if you're just looking to lower your car, it's not all necessary.
#3
good setup !
I lowered my car with eibach pros.
I had bought the eibach camber bolts, and when I went to align it, the mechanic put them on. it wasn't required though. either way, I would have been within fords specs. the mechanic said he put them on cause he likes cars as close as 0 camber.
and camber bolts are much cheaper than camber plates
I lowered my car with eibach pros.
I had bought the eibach camber bolts, and when I went to align it, the mechanic put them on. it wasn't required though. either way, I would have been within fords specs. the mechanic said he put them on cause he likes cars as close as 0 camber.
and camber bolts are much cheaper than camber plates
#5
Someone fact check me, but I believe I read somewhere that the bolts are more effective with the pro kit. With the Sportlines, the new neg. camber is out of the degree range of the bolts and plates are needed then. Could be wrong though...
#7
and you'll save ~2-5h of extra work too
#8
True, Might consider it, only downside, missing the Pan Bar/UCA/LCA.
Last edited by FivePointToTheOh; 06-27-2013 at 02:02 AM.
#9
If budget is an issue, I would suggest to prioritize and do steps by steps:
1- springs & shocks/struts + camber bolts
2- adj Panhard bar
3- lca & relocation bracket
4- adjustable uca & uca mount (only 1 thing to adjust instead of 2 Lcas)
I would say the least important is the uca & uca bracket.
Just my 0.02, money and time has different value for everybody.
Eibach springs are awesome. I must admit that I hadn't heard of the eibach Lcas before reading your post. Any reason for choosing them over others ? J&m is usually very popular for budget suspensions. Or I believe even the steeds are cheaper than the eibachs
1- springs & shocks/struts + camber bolts
2- adj Panhard bar
3- lca & relocation bracket
4- adjustable uca & uca mount (only 1 thing to adjust instead of 2 Lcas)
I would say the least important is the uca & uca bracket.
Just my 0.02, money and time has different value for everybody.
Eibach springs are awesome. I must admit that I hadn't heard of the eibach Lcas before reading your post. Any reason for choosing them over others ? J&m is usually very popular for budget suspensions. Or I believe even the steeds are cheaper than the eibachs
#10
With the springs, the panhard bar is advised the recenter the rear under the car, it gets offset to the side when lowering with the factory bar. Any panhard bar equipped car is going to shift when lowering the car, in a way a panhard bar is a pendulum…
Lowering with just the springs will cause excessive camber and uneven tire wear up front, that is why we use our strut mounts, in addition to being stronger they have room for camber adjustment, the stock ones don’t.
Camber bolts are a more economical way of not using strut mounts, but ... they have less room for adjustment (about ½ degree vs 1-1.5 degrees with mounts) and are an eccentric bolt. Under shock loads they can shift and cause changes in alignment settings.
The dampers (shocks and struts) control how the springs oscillate, the factory ones are matched to the factory springs. Our springs will work well with the factory ones, but upgrading is definitely worth it in terms of ride quality and performance both.
Springs, dampers, and mounts all have the same labor so doing them at the same time also saves on labor cost/time and alignments.
Sometimes ... using different parts from manufacturers vs. all the same from the manufacturer will develop some NVH. All of our parts are created to work together and reduce the amount of NVH all while giving a vehicle that will handle better, with an aggressive stance, without sacrificing ride quality.
Let me know at tim @steeda.com if I can put some pricing together for you? Also, let me know what your goals are ... do you want to track the car eventually or just use it as a DD?
If you are looking for the best ... you have to look no further than Steeda. American made parts for an American Icon.
Best Regards,
TJ
Lowering with just the springs will cause excessive camber and uneven tire wear up front, that is why we use our strut mounts, in addition to being stronger they have room for camber adjustment, the stock ones don’t.
Camber bolts are a more economical way of not using strut mounts, but ... they have less room for adjustment (about ½ degree vs 1-1.5 degrees with mounts) and are an eccentric bolt. Under shock loads they can shift and cause changes in alignment settings.
The dampers (shocks and struts) control how the springs oscillate, the factory ones are matched to the factory springs. Our springs will work well with the factory ones, but upgrading is definitely worth it in terms of ride quality and performance both.
Springs, dampers, and mounts all have the same labor so doing them at the same time also saves on labor cost/time and alignments.
Sometimes ... using different parts from manufacturers vs. all the same from the manufacturer will develop some NVH. All of our parts are created to work together and reduce the amount of NVH all while giving a vehicle that will handle better, with an aggressive stance, without sacrificing ride quality.
Let me know at tim @steeda.com if I can put some pricing together for you? Also, let me know what your goals are ... do you want to track the car eventually or just use it as a DD?
If you are looking for the best ... you have to look no further than Steeda. American made parts for an American Icon.
Best Regards,
TJ