PWR inside door panel ?
#11
Hi guys, I need some help please. I used a multimeter and tried every pin available in the door but I am not able to get the behavior that I want. I see three harness available to use:
1. Door lock/unlock switch (pic 1)
2. Window switch (pic 2)
3. The harness that moves the door lock actuator, the one that move the arm up and down. (pic 3) -- I did this test with the harness unplugged from the module by the door. I might need to try with the harness plugged in and measure the voltage again. Since the harness is unplugged, I don't think the latch was actually detected to be closed. So, I might have to try this again.
Please refer to pic 1 :
Pic 2:
Pic 3:
I am not able to locate the single ground wire right below the door handle. As you can see from the picture 4, the cable right in the middle of the door is a mechanical part, a metal cable.
picture 4:
Can someone that is proficient in reading the schematics let me know which pins I should tap into?
Thanks
1. Door lock/unlock switch (pic 1)
2. Window switch (pic 2)
3. The harness that moves the door lock actuator, the one that move the arm up and down. (pic 3) -- I did this test with the harness unplugged from the module by the door. I might need to try with the harness plugged in and measure the voltage again. Since the harness is unplugged, I don't think the latch was actually detected to be closed. So, I might have to try this again.
Please refer to pic 1 :
Pic 2:
Pic 3:
I am not able to locate the single ground wire right below the door handle. As you can see from the picture 4, the cable right in the middle of the door is a mechanical part, a metal cable.
picture 4:
Can someone that is proficient in reading the schematics let me know which pins I should tap into?
Thanks
#12
The connector you need, if you are looking for the wire i was telling you about, is on the bottom of the door LATCH, on the right end of the door in your picture. It is either a gray or black two pin hardshell.
#13
#14
looking at the harness from picture 3, I have the following color on the harness (passenger side):
1. black-yellow
2. white
3. grey-pink
4. purple
On the 2005 diagram, the door switch shows the following color: yellow-light green, and black. I don't have this cables running to the latch switch.
However, on the 2011 diagram, the latch switch shows the following color: white, black-yellow.
Therefore, I think I should be looking at the 2011 diagram for my 2010 car. I will test this when I get home. Can't wait.
1. black-yellow
2. white
3. grey-pink
4. purple
On the 2005 diagram, the door switch shows the following color: yellow-light green, and black. I don't have this cables running to the latch switch.
However, on the 2011 diagram, the latch switch shows the following color: white, black-yellow.
Therefore, I think I should be looking at the 2011 diagram for my 2010 car. I will test this when I get home. Can't wait.
#15
I got the passenger side to work as expected.
I used pic2- pin2- blue as positive and pic3- pin3- white as negative, but I would get -12 V (when door is open) and it would not light up the LED.
So, I just flipped them and used pic3- pin3- white as positive, and pic2- pin2- blue as negative and it works as expected. It gets +12V when door is open and it gets 0V when door is closed.
Now onto my second part - my car didn't originally come with a subwoofer, but the door panel from a premium car has a door sub. I noticed that I have the door sub harness (left unplugged, as shown in picture 4 -top left of the speaker).
Do you guys know if it works just by plugging it in? Or do I have to get an amp?
I used pic2- pin2- blue as positive and pic3- pin3- white as negative, but I would get -12 V (when door is open) and it would not light up the LED.
So, I just flipped them and used pic3- pin3- white as positive, and pic2- pin2- blue as negative and it works as expected. It gets +12V when door is open and it gets 0V when door is closed.
Now onto my second part - my car didn't originally come with a subwoofer, but the door panel from a premium car has a door sub. I noticed that I have the door sub harness (left unplugged, as shown in picture 4 -top left of the speaker).
Do you guys know if it works just by plugging it in? Or do I have to get an amp?
#16
I got the passenger side to work as expected.
I used pic2- pin2- blue as positive and pic3- pin3- white as negative, but I would get -12 V (when door is open) and it would not light up the LED.
So, I just flipped them and used pic3- pin3- white as positive, and pic2- pin2- blue as negative and it works as expected. It gets +12V when door is open and it gets 0V when door is closed.
Now onto my second part - my car didn't originally come with a subwoofer, but the door panel from a premium car has a door sub. I noticed that I have the door sub harness (left unplugged, as shown in picture 4 -top left of the speaker).
Do you guys know if it works just by plugging it in? Or do I have to get an amp?
I used pic2- pin2- blue as positive and pic3- pin3- white as negative, but I would get -12 V (when door is open) and it would not light up the LED.
So, I just flipped them and used pic3- pin3- white as positive, and pic2- pin2- blue as negative and it works as expected. It gets +12V when door is open and it gets 0V when door is closed.
Now onto my second part - my car didn't originally come with a subwoofer, but the door panel from a premium car has a door sub. I noticed that I have the door sub harness (left unplugged, as shown in picture 4 -top left of the speaker).
Do you guys know if it works just by plugging it in? Or do I have to get an amp?
The subs in the doors are designed to use an amp, you can still wire them without one, just will not sound as good of course.
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