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Constant "chirping" squeak from rear suspension- LCA'S?

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Old 08-25-2013, 06:04 PM   #1
SLVRSTNG06
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Default Constant "chirping" squeak from rear suspension- LCA'S?

Hey guys, I am having this constant chirp/squeak sound coming from my rear suspension.. i put in roush rear lowering springs about 6 months ago and the sound has gotten bad... do i need to replace my LCA'S?

It is the same sound as in this video except much worse, especially when driving at constant highway speeds.

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Old 08-25-2013, 06:46 PM   #2
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Sounds like LCA's. Still on the stockers? When you lower the car, you should loosen the LCA mounting points so they can take a new set, then re-tighten them - otherwise the bushings will have a little bit of preload.

Either LCA's, UCA, Panhard or shocks, in order of likelihood.
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:58 PM   #3
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I have an issue similar to this where my suspension makes god awful creaking noises if I hit some heavy bumps or womp on it hard. It's gotta be something related to what you're saying but mine happens if I'm at high speed and hit a bump, if I'm at high speeds at all (100+), or even if I'm going slow but on a really rough road.

Like I didn't let it bother me at first but now with more ownership and driving of the car it bothers me more and more. And I had my dad drive my car too and he barely pushed it but I could clearly hear it from driving behind him in another car.

I don't know if the suspension needs to be lubed or what. As a side note, I put in Ford Racing K Springs but it did it before the springs were installed too, so that's not it. I've also heard this could be the exhaust hanger.

I feel like bringing it somewhere is just gonna be a waste of money because they're just going to point out replacing stuff or not know anything at all.

Also at low speeds with the wheels turned all the way if I just keep going in circles there's a weird noise like vibration/creek type at the front wheels.

Sorry if I derailed the thread a bit.
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:25 PM   #4
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Yea still on the stock LCA's, i think i must of killed the bushings with the lowering springs and not loosening the LCA mounting points when installing them. Think i'm going to order a set of j&m ones eventually and see if that solves the issue. The noise definitely got progressively worse after the springs went in.

@mustangspotential- My issue started with bumps and a womp on the gas with the stock springs and then got much worse this over this summer after the springs went in. I totally hear you on bringing it into someone and not knowing exactly what it is and costing me a fortune replacing a bunch of stuff. I think I'm going to try new lower control arms to start and go from there. Definitely going to check the exhaust hangers too.
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Old 08-25-2013, 09:16 PM   #5
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while you are putting new LCA's, you need an adjustable panhard bar if you didn't already put one on. i have the Roush 1" lowering springs, Che LCA's and Edelbrock adjustable PHB. my car sat off center a half inch after lowering, real noticeable with 285/40/18's. centered and drove it around for about 5 miles to settle, then centered again. perfect ever since, just make sure the PHB can be adjusted on the car. while you are at it check to make sure you clocked the springs.
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:15 AM   #6
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When you installed the lowering springs, did you tighten the lower control arms with car jacked up by the frame or the rear axle? If you jacked up from the frame, then the squeaking is your control arm bushings binding up. You need to tighten the control arm bolts with the suspension at normal ride height (with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension). Jack up the rear and put it on jack stands under the rear axle so the weight of the vehicle is on the rear suspension, then loosen the control arm bolts. Bounce the rear end up/down a couple times to let the control arm bushings settle. Then tighten the bolts back up to factory specs. You should be good to go after that.

Good luck...
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:29 PM   #7
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don't recall touching the lower control arms when installing the springs just jacked it up and put the frame jack stands so the axle hung free and then unbolted the shocks at the bottom..
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-20" Shelby gunmetal razor rims-255/35/20 Falken FK452's (stock bullitts with blizzaks- winter setup)
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-Roush rear lowering springs- J&M LCA's
-6000k HID's headlights from retrosolutions
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-Sequential taillights from american muscle
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:53 PM   #8
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I do not mean to hijack this at all, but for everyone's info, is this something that needs to be done regardless of whether I'm experiencing symptoms? Stock LCAs here and I didn't touch them while doing my springs. No problems so far...
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:59 AM   #9
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Seagulls dude. Sounds like seagulls. Lol

Check the bushings and shocks. Lowered vehicles wear out the stock shocks.
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:18 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLVRSTNG06 View Post
don't recall touching the lower control arms when installing the springs just jacked it up and put the frame jack stands so the axle hung free and then unbolted the shocks at the bottom..
By installing lowering springs you have changed the angle of the control arms. The bushings donít slip/slide in the control arms. They are glued in if they are stock control arms. The bolts holding the control arms in are on pretty darn tight, so the bushings donít slide in the control arm mount on the frame/axle either. Since you didnít loosen the control arm bolts first you have probably put the control arm bushings in a bind/twist and the squeaking you hear is the rubber bushings screaming in pain. Iíd put the axle on jack stands again, loosen the control arm bolts, bounce the rear a few times to let the bushings untwist and settle and then tighten everything back up again. Iíd also use a torque wrench when tightening them back up. I donít know the spec for your year ride. Someone else on the forum might if you donít have the factory service manual. Good luck...
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket254 View Post
I do not mean to hijack this at all, but for everyone's info, is this something that needs to be done regardless of whether I'm experiencing symptoms? Stock LCAs here and I didn't touch them while doing my springs. No problems so far...
I would if I were you. If the bushings are in a bind/twist they will wear out a lot quicker. Good luck...
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petrock View Post
I would if I were you. If the bushings are in a bind/twist they will wear out a lot quicker. Good luck...
+1. Most suspension parts need to be torqued to spec with the system loaded at ride height.

This prevents binding of the bushing. Binding puts additional stress on the bushing and can cause it to twist and break up. At the very least you end up with squeaking. That's your bushings calling out for help!
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Old 08-30-2013, 04:55 PM   #13
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thanks guys that is probably the issue, never loosened up the LCA's and let them re-set themselves after the installing the lowering springs, have to check to see if the bushings are even still good, but I might just order new aftermarket LCA's. Also, it seems viewpoints are conflicting about whether or not an adjustable panhard bar is necessary in this situation with just rear lowering springs. Currently I DO NOT have one installed.....
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-20" Shelby gunmetal razor rims-255/35/20 Falken FK452's (stock bullitts with blizzaks- winter setup)
-Custom dual exhaust with stock GT mufflers
-Roush rear lowering springs- J&M LCA's
-6000k HID's headlights from retrosolutions
-GT500 spoiler
-35% tint all windows
-Sequential taillights from american muscle
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Old 08-31-2013, 08:03 PM   #14
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Talked to a mechanic today about it. He obviously said that to really know I'd have to bring it in but as far as suspension lube goes, he said the bushings aren't going to take any grease so he doesn't think that will do much.

I do think it's the LCAs though. Was racing around with a friend on the highway the other day and hit some real high speeds. The car was whining like a mother ****er after that in the rear. Maybe the shocks too? Horrible chirping sounds. Sounds like animals in the back of the car. It has 82k miles with original everything in the suspension except lowering springs. Again, it did this even before the lowering springs were in but seems *slightly* more often now that they are in. Barely though.
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Old 09-01-2013, 01:40 PM   #15
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Haha we definitely have the same problem chirps like crazy on the highway like animals are back there. I've been pretty busy lately but am going to do change the LCA's when I get a chance. Keep me posted if you get to it before me and it solves your issue. I might just do the shocks at the same time too since I still have the original ones installed.
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-20" Shelby gunmetal razor rims-255/35/20 Falken FK452's (stock bullitts with blizzaks- winter setup)
-Custom dual exhaust with stock GT mufflers
-Roush rear lowering springs- J&M LCA's
-6000k HID's headlights from retrosolutions
-GT500 spoiler
-35% tint all windows
-Sequential taillights from american muscle
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Old 09-01-2013, 05:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLVRSTNG06 View Post
Haha we definitely have the same problem chirps like crazy on the highway like animals are back there. I've been pretty busy lately but am going to do change the LCA's when I get a chance. Keep me posted if you get to it before me and it solves your issue. I might just do the shocks at the same time too since I still have the original ones installed.
Sounds good, I'll keep you informed and you do the same. Shocks are so easy to replace it's a joke, so if I'm going down there to diagnose things/replace LCA's, definitely replacing the shocks.

The struts are a different story, half/one day's work with the assemblies.
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLVRSTNG06 View Post
thanks guys that is probably the issue, never loosened up the LCA's and let them re-set themselves after the installing the lowering springs, have to check to see if the bushings are even still good, but I might just order new aftermarket LCA's. Also, it seems viewpoints are conflicting about whether or not an adjustable panhard bar is necessary in this situation with just rear lowering springs. Currently I DO NOT have one installed.....
To figure out if you need an adjustable panhard...just look at the car from the rear. Do the rear wheels look off-center? Does one side seem to stick out more from the body on one side versus the other? If they do, then an adjustable panhard is needed. If not, then you don't need one.
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Originally Posted by LostBoyz View Post
if you are getting 29mpg in your 5.0, you aren't driving it correctly
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:14 PM   #18
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*UPDATE*- Installed new J&M rear lower control arms today in place of my worn out originals and my horrible annoying squeak/chirp is finally gone!! when I took the old ones out the bushings were shot and dried out. If you have the squeak as shown in the youtube video in the beginning of this thread, it is your lower control arms. replace 'em!! recommend these J&M's so far.
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-20" Shelby gunmetal razor rims-255/35/20 Falken FK452's (stock bullitts with blizzaks- winter setup)
-Custom dual exhaust with stock GT mufflers
-Roush rear lowering springs- J&M LCA's
-6000k HID's headlights from retrosolutions
-GT500 spoiler
-35% tint all windows
-Sequential taillights from american muscle
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:10 PM   #19
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Glad to hear you got it fixed. Worn out bushings will cause weird problems. I will say that a slightly cheaper, but more labor intensive, option is to replace the stock, worn out, bushings with polyurethane bushings. I like Energy Suspension’s bushings. Its a lot cheaper then new control arms. But the labor is higher because you have to remove the old bushings, which can be a PITA sometimes. But with a little heat, a C-Clamp style ball joint press and a bunch of patience you can do it in your driveway in a day or so.
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Old 09-22-2013, 02:37 AM   #20
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I've also heard this could be the exhaust hanger.Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 09-22-2013, 02:37 AM
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